Top 10 Pieces of Unsolicited Advice for Foreigners in a Strange Land

Oh, how readers of Linköpinglivin’ love their Top 10 lists, second only to “Fun Facts” in popularity. It has been awhile and, well, you really deserve this.

Occasionally, fellow foreigners will comment about the helpful nature of Linköpinglivin’ for people interested in learning about life in Sweden or even what it's like to move abroad. Though the title should explain it all, I will qualify that, especially in light of last week’s entry, this list is not meant to be inclusive of those who have been forced to a new country by necessity or desperation, but could be of some use, despite those difficult circumstances.

However, if you have chosen to venture away from your native country for professional, personal or adventure-seeking reasons for a period of time or forever, then listen up (along with a small personal “1 – 10” self-evaluation and comment following each proclamation):


10) Immerse yourself in your new place, not your home from afar.
With the wonders of the Internet (Email, Skype, Social Networks, websites from home), it is wholly possible to live parallel lives in two countries. This limits the experience of the new culture, country and personal acclimation to your new world. While you can live with one foot in both places, I recommend against it as much as possible. At least give yourself reasonable boundaries from home until you are fully immersed in your new surroundings: Personal Grade: 3 – My experience in Sweden, and particularly my language acquisition, has been significantly hampered by my continual and constant, many-times-daily exposure to home. I realized this helpful piece of advice way too late…

9) Speak with native speakers in their language, demand it.
In some places, you have no choice, and for this you should be thankful. Oh, I can hear the cries of hypocrisy now, but hey, at least I’m trying to help others to do what I haven’t….Personal Grade: 3

8) Join a social group.
You need to meet people. You need to meet people more than just colleagues, more than fellow students. And you need to get out there and be intentional about it. Whatever your interests, go find the nearest club, group, church or social organization so you can begin to make friends. It doesn’t happen automatically. Get after it! Personal Grade: 9 – Ryttargårdskyrkansfolk, tack så, så mycket för allt!

7) Don’t let this life adventure become normal.
When you’re new to a place, your eyes, ears and mind is wide open. Keep it that way! Embrace the newness and abnormality and make the decision to keep it that way – don’t lose that wonderful curiosity…Personal Grade: 8 (and trying hard to keep it there).

6) Adjust to your new financial surroundings and don’t compare.
If you’re moving to a country that is more expensive than your native country, think in your new currency and don’t compare. When you go home, think in that currency, but never the two shall meet (or if you come to a country like Sweden, you’ll be crying the whole time). If you’ve moved to a country less expensive than your native country, compare every day and have a great time!!!! Personal Grade: 7 – Sorry America, but it sure is a great time to be getting paid in Swedish Kronor!

5) Move out of your comfort zone, get extroverted and ask a lot of questions.
I know, I know, easy for an American to say, but it sure does help with a lot of the other pieces of advice found here…Personal Grade: 8 – Believe it or not, I really am an introvert at heart.

4) Make a decision to not get defensive about your home country.
Let’s be honest, I have full credibility to speak to this one! If you separate your identity from your country – and, by the way, you are NOT your country – your experience can be full of rich discussions about culture, life and worldwide experiences of people and nations. If you’re defending your country the whole time, no one has much fun…Personal Grade: 9 – There have been a couple conversations in which I was taken down, but usually the only thing I get defensive about is…..my beloved baseball, so just don’t even bring it up!

3) Experience your new country in every season of the year.
Just like a relationship, you never really know until you’ve been in it through all the seasons of the year…Personal Grade: 10 – I simply love the seasons in Sweden and will dearly miss the extremes when I am gone.

2) Persistently request, welcome and embrace all visitors.
Sharing your new locale with family, friends and acquaintances wandering through is simply a joy. Let people know they are always welcome and treat them like visiting royalty when they make the (sometimes long) journey. Personal Grade: 10 – And all of you in the U.S. are still welcome to experience the polar bears on the streets and igloos in which we live here in Sweden – the promise of going down in blog lore is still valid. Thanks to those of you who have gone out of your way.

1) Keep a blog, journal, record, diary or whatever you need to help cherish the experience.
Document it because you’ve never had it so good. Personal Grade: 9 – I wish I’d kept a more personal journal, because believe it or not, I do not choose to share my innermost being on Linköpinglivin'…

Pictures above:

Some mighty strange things found in Sweden, except the market fresh "Brains, Liver and Tongue" found in Paris.

Homogeneity, Diversity and Race in Sweden: Part II

I often hear from honest people that this year's Linköpinglivin' entries aren't quite as fun as last year's. I can understand that, and in some ways, I agree with them. As a naïve foreigner, wide-eyed, curious and embracing, it was a lot easier to write last year, too. However, for those still willing to read when it’s not quite as lighthearted, hopefully this year’s Linköpinglivin’ is a bit more real, a bit more meaningful and perhaps, on some level, at least occasionally, maybe even fun!

This week’s topic re-visits a subject discussed earlier on Linköpinglivin’ and still just as dicey and difficult as ever, here in Sweden and elsewhere. To read the earlier entry on homogeneity and diversity in Sweden, see the September 3, 2007 entry.

Though the flight from the homeland and Swedish reception of immigrants in general and Iraqis in particular has decreased in recent months, the overall increase of non-native Swedes continues, which emphasizes the question even more: How do you successfully integrate natives and non-natives so that everyone can fairly and equally pursue what many believe to be “God-given” or “self-evident” rights? Second only to the economy, this discussion dominates political conversations throughout Sweden as immigrants reap the benefits of very high taxes that Swedes are all-too aware of and concerned about.

Personally, as an educator-at-heart, helping students learn how to recognize and humbly address these issues is something for which I feel responsible. At Linköping University’s campus, the international exchange student enrollment is only on the rise, but so often these students come to Sweden, have classes and live with other English-speaking internationals visiting Sweden in the same way, then go home having made friends with people from multiple countries of the world, but not necessarily any Swedes. I think the main problem is simply language – when you walk into a room of people, you want to be with the people you’re comfortable with and language is the very first obstacle – then cultural and other hindrances follow after that. The issue on campus can be seen as a microcosm of the larger issue (not just in Sweden, but in any country that seeks to integrate foreign-speakers seeking an improved life).

The result is, as in so many countries, isolated communities of similar-looking, similar-acting and similar-believing people groups who try to manage and try to make the best of the situation. Just as Americans genuinely care for and appreciate the Mexican-immigrant, but want to do something about a situation that simply can’t remain status quo, so Swedes want to provide a country where war- and corruption-torn citizens can flee to for safe-haven, sanctuary and new possibilities, but know that these dreams will never be realized for anyone if the current policies and social patterns continue. Difficult issues.

Perhaps a better title to this entry is simply “Immigration in Sweden,” but you know how I like my series and “Part Is,” “Part IIs,” Part IIIs,” etc.

Though not often seen on the Linköpinglivin’ comments, I do occasionally get some very profound and insightful comments about various topics through email. This topic along with recent topics like “Neutrality” and other hot ones have provided some very good feedback. The following excerpts came after the last entry on this topic from one Swede who, surprise-surprise, would like to remain anonymous. So you know who you are and thanks for your contribution:


“One must bear in mind that Sweden has had very few colonies and those few were lost long ago. Immigration to Sweden has been mostly by 'tradecraft experts' like Germans in the middle ages, Vallonians and Dutch in the 1600s, Italians and Yugoslavs in the 1960s and 70s. In the 70s and up until now immigration has been mainly refugees. Palestinians, Chileans, people from the Middle East. One and a half million people in Sweden are first or second generation immigrants.

Sweden has transformed since I was a kid. In my class in 'grundskolan' we had one Korean girl, adopted of course. Of roughly 150 (five 'classes') of us in ninth grade at Folkungaskolan there were less than five non-European children. This was 1990. Now you can't find a single class in school with less than a third of non-Europeans. So I can't agree that the racial homogeneity remains the same. But it is true that only one-sixth of the Swedish population is non-European.

Racism, yes we have it. You'd be hard-pressed to find it though, because if you ask someone he'd most likely answer the politically correct way. Many would however add the phrase 'I'm not a racist, but...' The fact that all these immigrants have all arrived here over the last three decades, most after 1990 even, when the economy has been less-than-stable and the policies of how to integrate these people into Swedish society have been amateur, at best, makes us a bit skeptical about immigration, some even of immigrants. Myself? I think we shouldn't accept more immigrants than we can take care of, because that would be a sure way of creating a racist problem. Non-integrated, unemployed immigrants who live in their own parts of town and are overrepresented in the criminal statistics are the result of the policies employed since the 1970s and there must be a change, for their own sakes.

You mention Jews, or rather the absence of them, in your blog. I beg to differ, since I personally know several. Before 1750 there were no Jews in Sweden. Not one. This is because the strict laws on religion forbade all faiths except the 'true holy Lutheran' faith preached by the church of Sweden.”

I think that’s enough for now. If you made it this far, you’re probably better than most. Until next week, “Hej då” from Linköping.


(Pictures above are some of the students with whom I work, both Swedish and international. They generally like to get some representation on the blog, if they're aware of it, but I'm not sure this topic was what they had in mind.....The last one if of Jonas Morling, of whom I am now a proud Facebook fan club member.)

The Return of Swedish Fun Facts

After enduring a personal trip journey for a few weeks, you deserve a return to some good ol’ Swedish fun facts, so here’s the latest edition of Linköpinglivin’s obscure observations, interesting (sort of) information, curious digressions, brief commentary and quick acknowledgments of all things Sweden that are mostly true, occasionally entertaining and always random:

1) Birthday parties in Sweden are generally planned, hosted and provided by the celebrant, not friends or colleagues. There are, of course, exceptions such as the hallmark birthdays of “0s and 5s,” which are often commemorated in grand style and prepared by the expected number of different people.

2) On that note, each day of the year is also a “Name Day” or namnsdagen. Every day is given a name, usually one male and one female, and though it seems the tradition is passing, people with that name are often acknowledged on this day. Namnsdagen also works its way into various other cultural traditions, such as the Swedish flag is raised when the Name Day is “Carl” because…..

3) Somehow overlooked on Linköpinglivin’ until now is the fact that Sweden is one of just a handful of European countries that still have official royalty. King Carl XVI Gustaf and his German-born wife, Queen Silvia, have three children (Crown Princess Victoria, Prince Philip and Princess Madeline). Victoria, who recently turned 30 years old, will one day be the first Queen of Sweden since 1654 due to a recent change of the law that states the firstborn, male or female, shall inherit the throne. Figureheads who hold no actual power, Swedes generally look upon their royalty with affection and, as expected, gossip newspapers adore each and every move of the royal family…see picture above of the royal family at the annual Nobel ceremony in December.

4) When going to a movie in Sweden, remember that your seat is reserved – we simply will not stand for chaotic seat selection in this country – and your ticket price is based on length of movie (the most recent Pirates of the Caribbean, at three hours, was the equivalent of $18! Ouch.). Swedes pride themselves on not dubbing (just subtitling) their English movies as in France, Germany and Italy, swearing that this is the reason they speak such great English and, after watching dubbed TV throughout Austria and Germany, I would agree that this does make a big difference, especially for children growing up hearing English every day through TV, movies, etc.

5) Chalk another one up for Swedish equality: It is very common for the newly wedded male and female to take her last name, rather than his. Sometimes they will make up or choose another last name entirely.

6) “The Eyes Have It”: The world-renowned, attractive Swede is generally known for her blonde hair however true or not this is, but when visitors come to Sweden, including this long-term visitor, it’s the eyes that leave one speechless…captivating, intoxicating, beautiful (and usually) blue eyes.

7) Sweden etiquette, like most of Europe, demands the Continental Style of holding silverware. Upside-down fork in the left hand and knife in the right. No “cutting and switching” American style. Try it sometime. It’s WAY more comfortable and simple…and, no matter where I live, I will use this manner of utensil-holding the rest of my life. Skål!

8) There are two companies that run overnight boats across the Baltic Sea to Helsinki, Finland and Tallin, Estonia. You hop on the boat in Stockholm in the late afternoon on Friday, cruise all night and pull into one of these two harbors early on Saturday morning, run around a new fun capital city for the day and get back on for an all night ride back to Stockholm, arriving early in the morning on Sunday. Not a bad way to to take less than a weekend, see a new city, experience the Swedish Archipelago islands not once, but twice and meet new people!

9) Something that has received no mention at any time on Linköpinglivin’ is my love for playing basketball. In fact, after a year-and-a-half in Sweden, just this past weekend was the first time I picked up a basketball and played hoops. I made sure to make my first shot in Sweden….

10) And speaking of my length of time in Sweden, my work contract has been extended from June until December. So what was originally “two years” will eventually be two-and-a-half memorable years with the Swedes.

Pictures above:

1. The latest view of the Gamla Stan spires rising above Stockholm - this picture taken from a boat crossing Stockholm Harbor.

2. The dessert table at a recent Swedish julbord. Delicious.

3. We've had a few days of higher temperatures and, get this, sunshine (!!) in Sweden this week. For those of you curious, "higher temperatures" means 5 degrees Celsius, about 40 Farenheit. Pleasant...balmy, really.

4. If it's January in Sweden, it means that everyone is wildly anticipating the return of the beloved Semla, a.k.a. cream puff, but as with many things here in Sweden, it's just more than a cream puff...

5. Most of the pictures on Linköpinglivin' are of my own taking, but this one, admittedly, was not me at the Nobel Gala in December. Maybe next year...

Munich and a Viennese New Year

For those of you beginning to wonder, “I thought this was a blog about Linköping and Sweden,” I kindly ask that you indulge me for one more week as I finish a great holiday trip…

After London and Salzburg, my journey halfway complete, the final two stops on my swing through continental Europe for Christmas and New Year's took me to Munich, Germany and Vienna, (back to) Austria. Though Salzburg is in the middle of these final two stops, and not the most efficient itinerary, things other than geography were important and this also gave me more time on smooth trains riding through the Bavarian and Tirolean Alps – never a bad thing and a nice breather in the midst of a demanding travel schedule.

"München" is Bavarian country, which traditionally means lederhosen, all kinds of “wurst,” big beer steins, bread loaf-size pretzels, a little yodeling, Alps and an uproarious good time had by all. While I didn’t see (too much) lederhosen, all the other things were true and my Munich experience will be remembered for the large amount of people in a fairly small area (Munich is actually smaller than its reputation, for sure), the crystal clear days, the fairy tale castles, my Italian entourage at the Hofbräuhaus, and the satisfaction of being a tourist, but because of my time in Sweden with Germans, actually having friends to see and spend time with in their native country. A big thanks to Frauke and Christoph for your warm German hospitality in the middle of a cold and snow-filled morning.

After three quick days in Munich, it was off to Vienna to celebrate the New Year with the Viennese (and a whole lot of others as it turned out). Vienna seems to get overlooked on many American’s Europe itineraries. Most Americans wouldn’t even know Vienna as the capital of the Hapsburg dynasty/Empire, which ruled Europe along with a few other families for almost 600 years!

Now Vienna relaxes as a former world-changer content to revel in an architecturally grand city with a café and leisure culture second-to-none (even Paris). Never too far from waltzing music, the traveler to Vienna is simply charmed by the palatial buildings, elegant cafés, sprawling parks and greenery (or so I am told when it’s not winter), music and opera culture and regal atmosphere.

Throw in a celebratory holiday like New Year’s and it makes for quite the party. Despite the typical alcohol-laden license for recklessness that so many unfortunately adopt on New Year’s Eve, my New Year’s in Vienna will be remembered for the citywide ballroom (see picture) and thousand person Blue Danube waltz at midnight, ringing in the New Year as only the Viennese can.

“Prosit Neujahr” (Happy New Year) and next week we return to Sweden to continue our exploration and enjoyment of all things Swedish.

Pictures above:

1. The Munich skyline generally consists only of Our Lady Cathedral in the distance and New Town Hall in the foreground.

2. I took a day excursion deep into the Bavarian Alpine region in search of "Mad" King Ludwig's fairy tale castles. This is Neuschwanstein, built in the late 1800s for the sole purpose of looking like it's out of the imagination of children.

3. A funny thing happened when I went to Munich's famed Hofbräuhaus. Before I knew it, I was joined at the table by 10 Italians and the party was on! Bongiorno - Viva Italia!

4. The streets of inner-city Vienna during the holidays are a spectacle of lights portraying the best of the ballrooms for which Vienna is so famed. "May I have this dance?"

5. Rathausplatz, city hall square, in Vienna where the New Year was welcomed to the tune of Strauss' The Blue Danube waltz. Vienna? New Year's? Perfect.

Christmas in Salzburg

When I was last in Salzburg in the autumn of 1993, I remember thinking, “What an idyllic little place. It would be fun to spend Christmas here someday.”

Well, that “someday” was last week and Salzburg lived up to it’s yuletide expectations by providing a little bit of snow, all the “glüwein and punsch” one could imagine and most of all, a family of friends from Seattle with whom to spend the actual holiday.

As I was wandering about Salzburg mesmerized by the Christmas cheer - Austrian style, I was struck by the fact that the American idealized vision of Europe, however romantic and unrealistic it might be, is truly captured in this one small city in central Austria. Salzburg simply has it all: a castle/fortress on the hill, cobblestone streets with colored facades, a huge and illustrious Baroque cathedral, non-English speaking locals (but with enough to get by as a tourist), spectacular history and significant figures of history (Mozart was born here and wrote many of his concerts with this very cathedral in mind), Alps all around, a rollicking beer hall with very large steins of locally-made beer, seemingly ceaseless cathedral bells, never-ending arts and culture and a river running right through it. Not even to mention that one of the most beloved movies of all time, The Sound of Music, is the quintessential Salzburg showcase.

And when you add snow, horse-drawn carriages, Christmas markets, lights and the Christmas merriment of this time of year, Salzburg becomes a storybook Christmas city – and on top of all this, the most famous and translated Christmas carol worldwide, Silent Night, was written and first performed in a small church just 20 kilometers from Salzburg in 1818. Silent Night is a very sacred song to the Austrian people.

Add to all this holiday fun my friends from Seattle - Dan and Shena Hinds and her parents, John and Jean McCall - and Christmas in Salzburg was an unforgettable way to celebrate the season.
If I couldn’t be surrounded by family and friends around the Christmas tree in Southern California, Salzburg surrounded by temporary family in the form of good friends was the next best place.

So as we’re on the brink of the new year and Linköpinglivin is a step behind, I wish you one last “Frohe Wiehnachten” from Salzburg, Austria.

Pictures above:

1. The castle on the hill, the Baroque church, a bit of snow - Salzburg plays the part well.

2. The German and Austrian Christmas markets are the world's best (and most expensive).

3. Salzburg plays up its strengths and it knows that tourism is its strongest asset - there is even a store called "Christmas in Salzburg" as well as "Easter in Salzburg" just down the street.

4. My Christmas dinner was spent at St. Peter's Restaurant, one that Charlemagne (yes, Charlemagne!) mentions eating at way back in 803 making this the oldest known restaurant in Europe...

5. A big thanks to my friends Jean, John, Dan and Shena for letting me crash their Christmas party in Salzburg.

Christmastime in England

After being home as recently as October and wanting to fulfill longtime Christmas travel dreams, I decided not to go home for the holidays for the first time ever (another huge shout-out to Mom and the rest of the family for their understanding) . This week started a two-week European holiday travel trip of which the first stop was about as close to my home as you could get without actually setting foot in the U.S. (Sorry, England, but it's true).

When I first returned to Europe (after a college study abroad trip in ’93) for this opportunity in Sweden, my travel urge was more focused on Eastern Europe and other places not previously visited. My how things change… After two Paris weekends and this stop in London, I understand that these all-too typical destinations on the usual American itinerary in Europe are for good reason. To be in London and the smaller English town of Bath during the festive Christmas season was the clincher for my decision and the past five days have been Victorian outstanding.

After my weekend in Stockholm in early December, which I consider my first stop on this holiday trip and with visions of a Dickensian Christmas dancing in my head, I arrived to London earlier this week. The Christmas spirit could never be omnipresent in a city like this – it’s just too big – but if you know where to go, the Christmas merriment is in full swing. My favorites were the Somerset House for ice-skating, Trafalgar Square for the annual Norwegian gift of the larger-than-life Christmas “spruce,” the decorations and spirit at Covent Garden, St. Paul’s Cathedral and other churches for Christmas services and celebratory concerts, Oxford Circus for the bright lights - big shopping atmosphere and all of Bath, the quintessential Victorian town two hours outside of London. It doesn’t get much better than a candlelight Christmas concert in the historical abbey of a charming English countryside town.

Some other highlights, thoughts and impressions on England and the Brits:

Culturally and undoubtedly due to language, I definitely feel a kindred spirit with the English people I have met and with the experiences I have had here. My heritage is English and Scottish, so that certainly has something to do with it as well. It wasn’t just because there’s a Starbucks on every corner (literally as many as Seattle, the home of Starbucks) that I noticed an inner connection to England and her people.

London just never quits. I’ve been going strong for five days and my future London itineraries just keep getting bigger. So much rich culture, history, tradition, art, theater, exhibitions, opportunities and pubs(!!!). Love those pubs! Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, the first and most authentic pub in London (“rebuilt” in 1667), was tops on my list.

An overlooked exhibit in London is the Treasures of the British Library. In one 300 square meter location is nothing short of the textual foundation of Western Civilization: the oldest version we have of the New Testament and many books of the Old, the Magna Carta, some of the very first maps ever created, the Gutenberg Bible, Shakespeare and other literary giants, Handel’s Messiah and other priceless compositions and the list goes on. For anyone with a remote interest in history, art or cultural artifacts, this free exhibit is a must.

You’ve heard right. London is indeed very expensive…and worth every pence.

And for someone who doesn’t like to experience cities with heat or tourists, the week before Christmas in London was simply ideal for me. I did the obligatory walk through Her Majesty’s Crown Jewels, a place that routinely has at least an hour-long line, and never had to stop! Additionally, London is known as such an international city that sometimes it's hard to find any authentic English people. This hasn't been the case at all - this week I've heard very few other languages than English.

And oh those British accents…

Tomorrow I leave for my next destination, where I will spend Christmas Eve, Day and Boxing Day (as the British and Canadians refer to it). See you next week from another storybook location on this European holiday journey.

“Happy Christmas” from England.

Pictures above:

1. Trafalgar Square at night, the very heart of London, and the Christmas tree from the people of Norway (an annual gift to thank the British for their help in WWII).

2. The Somerset House ice-skating rink.

3. Covent Garden, already an arts, crafts and shopping mecca in London, becomes even more so during the Christmas season.

4. Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, the oldest pub in London and a classic pub scene inside...

5. Bath is a picturesque town at all times, but especially at Christmas.

Why It's So Cool To Live in Linköping: Part 2 - Mjellerums Gården

Sorry about the formatting, everyone. For the first time in a long time, Blogger has outsmarted me.

After my initial October post in this occasional series of reasons why Linköping is such a cool place to live, if you were wondering when this series was going to continue as November came and went and we proceed through December quickly, then you deserve an award. The second part of this five-part series focusing specifically on Linköping and its best parts takes us to a very tradtional Swedish restaurant that feels way out in the countryside, though is actually only minutes from Linköping's inner-city.

When I first arrived to Linköping, I inquired as to where was a good place to find some traditional Swedish food. A typical question for a foreigner to a new place, however, the response I got was a mix of places that have typical Swedish food (fish, meat, potatoes), but are not quite the whole experience of dining in Swedish style and perplexed guesses as to what type of experience I was really in search of. It seemed like a basic question, but the answer was a bit harder. Part of the problem is that cuisines from other countries have such a distinct taste and type of food (Italian, Chinese, Mexican, French, Indian, etc.), but Swedish food is not that distinct in nature, but if you find the right place, the experience of eating in Swedish style can be outstanding.

Eventually, Mjellerums Gården was recommended as a place to experience a traditional Swedish plate in a traditional Swedish environment. Mjellerums Gården belongs deep in the Swedish countryside somewhere, but is actually right next to the university just outside of the center of Linköping. Walking in the front door, you are warmly greeted by a hostess in traditional attire and you are immediately taken back to 18th century Sweden because of the ambience, the soft scent and sound of a crackling fireplace as well as the manor which you have entered was built about 200 years ago.

As to be expected for a place with this type of tribute-to-Sweden-of-yesteryear environment, there's no better time to experience Mjellerums Gården than during the Christmas season with the not-to-be-outdone julbord (picture above), the continual flickering of candles surrounded by Christmas greenery, gently creaking floorboards, and the occasional light snowfall seen through the window.

A picturesque Swedish scene at Christmas or any other time of year and a taste and quality of food to match. For more on this classic Swedish experience right here in Linköping, check out the website:

http://www.mjellerumsgarden.se/

Pictures above:

1. Mjellerums Gården front door decorated in December.

2. The Swedish "Christmas table" or julbord. Just make sure to leave room so you can keep coming back for more...

3. The ingredients to a classic fika.

4. Mjellerums Gården is another reason that Linköping is such a cool place to live.

While Linköpinglivin' will not be taking a break during the coming holidays, it will be taking a break from Sweden as this week begins a couple weeks of European Christmas travel for me. See you next week from official stop #2 (Stockholm last weekend) on the European Christmas journey.

Jul i Stockholm

It’s been awhile since I have mentioned Sweden’s largest and most well known city (notice I did not say “best,” Linköpingsborna) and there is no better time to welcome Stockholm back to Linköpinglivin’ than during the Christmas season. In what has quickly become a personal tradition, I spent this past weekend taking in the sights and sounds (Handel’s Messiah at Storkyrkan – Americans just can’t get enough concerts in cathedrals) of the holiday season in a city that just grows on me more and more, and it started pretty high on my favorites list.

I consider Stockholm the first stop on my European holiday adventure 2007 – 08 that will take me through continental Europe during the upcoming Christmas and New Year’s holidays. A quick shout-out to my Mom who has just been awarded “World’s Best Mother-2007” for supporting this decision of mine to be away from home during Christmas for the very first time in 34 years…

The experience of Christmas in Stockholm is centered, not unlike other European cities, on the lights, the Christmas markets, delightful window displays (though NK’s is arguably the best!) and the ever-present and merry food and drink, gingerbread cookies and hot mulled wine (pepparkakor och glögg).

While anywhere there’s capitalism there will be commercialism at Christmas, Stockholm’s representation of the season is understated, refined and always carries a nice mix of class, wintry magic and childlike delight. There are lights, but they are not blinding. There are festivities, but not overwhelming carnivals. There is shopping, but you can get away from it if you want. Finally, there is way too much pepparkakor och glögg, but no one is complaining about that!

For a Christmas season spent in Europe, Stockholm is a fantastic first stop.

I continue to realize that I was born into the right family in the wrong location. There’s just something about the beauty and sparkle of light during wintertime this far north that makes me appreciate this season all the more. Fire and ice, which are everywhere in their various forms this time of year, bring with them such a romantic, almost-mystical atmosphere. If only the snow would come back…

The sun is setting during the 3pm hour in southern Sweden these days. It rises at approximately 8:45am. When the days are short, it must mean Lucia is somewhere close by…


Pictures above:

1. Even in Stockholm, the larger-than-life Christmas tree welcomes incoming cruise ships to Stockholm Harbor.

2. The saffron bread sold at a classic Swedish julmarknad in Stockholm’s old city of Gamla Stan.

3. If Sweden is a fairy tale, which some have proposed in the blogosphere before, then Skansen during Christmas is the height of that fairy tale….

4. The most well known department store in Sweden is Nordiska Kompaniet or “NK.” I had recently heard all about their window displays during the Christmas season, and from very objective sources, so I decided to go find out what all the fuss was about….

5. Expecting nothing more than creative commercialism, what I found was nothing less than a creative and artistic achievement of colors, themes, games, goodies, surprises, decorations, fun and visions of sugar plums dancing in children’s heads. A must during any visit to Stockholm this time of year.

AmateurTraveler.com Visits Sweden (via Linköping)

A popular and still-growing website and weekly podcast that explores the world of travel and places is AmateurTraveler.com, based in San Jose, California and run by Chris Christensen. I discovered AmateurTraveler.com when seeking information and travel education primarily for my iPod. This podcast has been running for two-and-a-half years now, but this past week journeyed to Sweden for the first time.

I had the pleasure of doing a half-hour long interview with Chris as we discussed travel to and within Sweden including edible reindeer, Swedish holidays, the dark and light of winter and summer, Stockholm, smaller Swedish towns like Linköping and Uppsala and, of course, the wonder and enjoyment of fika.

I want to thank Chris and AmateurTraveler.com for this opportunity and new experience. The best part is that anyone out there reading Linköpinglivin' can check out AmateurTravler.com and listen to episode #115: Sweden!

http://www.amateurtraveler.com/

And if you are visiting Linköpinglivin' for the first time because of AmateurTraveler.com, welcome to this little part of the world.

In the United States, most people would tell you that the Christmas season begins the day after Thanksgiving and increases as December 25th approaches. Well in Sweden, the first day of the Christmas season, which both starts and finishes strong, is the first day of Advent which is always four Sundays before Christmas, today.

"Nu är det Jul igen" in Sweden and nothing like the Gamla Linköping Julmarknad, "Christmas market," to get things started right. For more about a Swedish Christmas, please see my December postings from 2006, including the Top 10 words you must know to experience Christmas in Sweden, including ljusstake, pepparkakor, glögg and Julbord.

Pictures above:

1. AmateurTraveler.com
2. Sean enjoys some fika, despite the size of the picture.
3. Gamla Linköping's Christmas market children's choir.
4. The crowning of Therese, Linköping's Lucia 2007.
5. The Gamla Linköping Advent crowd watches the arrival of Lucia.

Thanksgiving in St. Petersburg

For the second year in-a-row, my Dad and I needed to come up with an ”alternative” Thanksgiving celebration. While we would have preferred to be home with family eating turkey with the trimmings, this year we chose to travel to a country that for so many years was the opposite of our country, the enemy during the Cold War and has always carried with it an air of mystery and suspicion right up to the present day.

Dad and I chose to go to Russia for many reasons. Primarily, and what I’m coming to realize as the most rewarding part of any travel adventure, we wanted to meet some native Russians, speak with locals about their culture, history and current life and times, as well as experience first-hand what Russia has to offer the curious, open-minded and connection-seeking traveler.

We were not disappointed.

The pictures above tell the story of many parts of our trip:

1. The beginning of a typical Russian winter that we wanted to experience, and did.

2. The State Hermitage Museum located in the former Winter Palace is nothing less than a history of Western (and some Eastern) Civilization, right up there -if not better than-Paris’ Louvre and Madrid’s Prado.

3. The Mariinsky Theater ballet, believed by some to be a notch above the Bolshoy in Moscow – in other words, the very best in all the world.

4. The Church on the Spilled Blood which looks more like the onion-domed churches you find in Moscow, but captures a typical Russian look anyways.

5. Narva Baptist Church friends.


The sight-seeing in any city is exciting and rewarding and offers the tourist a chance to fulfill what the imagination has only seen until that point, but the true meaning of a trip is found in the common interactions with locals and natives who often go out of their way to help you in your clumsy tourist state or want to give you their perspective as opposed to what they suspect you may have heard about them or their country.

I enjoy having my stereotypes and pre-conceived notions dispelled, or just flat-out crushed, by travel. Expecting the Russian people to be tough, stoic, thick-necked and unfriendly, my Dad and I were continually taken aback by the helpfulness, English-speaking friendliness and general good-natured qualities of the native Russians to which our travels led us. Such as:

The workers at our hostel went above and beyond to help our Russian experience be a good one. Extra phone calls to help with a major inconvenience and trips to and from the airport were just the beginning of their hospitality.

Encountering a problem with an ATM was the last thing we needed on a trip to Russia, but when we lost a card, there were no less than eight Russian bank employees with whom we needed to speak and each one was overly generous and willing to help, of course speaking only English. This turned out to be one of the best experiences of our trip as we reflected on the people we had met and how unexpectedly friendly and customer-service (even clueless customer-service) oriented they were.

Finally, through a friend here in Sweden, we were connected with a church in St. Petersburg and with a congregation that was more than welcoming, friendly and interested in us as travelers, Americans and visitors to their small, but genuine community.

Perhaps our experience was unique. Perhaps our Russian exposure was out-of-the-ordinary. Perhaps we just met all the good ones. But I doubt it.

Of course, not everyone’s experience with the Russian people will be like ours. However, as a child of the Cold War, with pre-conceived notions of the Russian people that I was really hoping would be debunked, my trip was a smashing success.

If you’re ready to take on the next traveler challenge, I highly recommend Russia.

Happy belated Thanksgiving, America. Though far away, I am thankful for all of you.

Skål

1) Do not even think about drinking out of your glass until the proper introductory "Skål" has been conducted.

2) Wait for the host(ess) to begin the Skål.

3) Hold your alcohol-filled glass with your right hand and put your left hand on the table directly in front of you parallel to your chest (to show the others at the table that you have no intention of "going for your blade").

4) After everyone at the table is properly prepared, the host may say a few words as an introduction, while glasses are in the air.

5) At the conclusion of the introduction, the host will declare "Skål!" (pr. "Skoal" for you Yankees) and everyone at the table, glasses remaining in the air, repeats "Skål!"

6) At this point, we have reached a pivotal moment. Will you "clank" glasses like a drunken American or will you resist this tempation of youth and choose the classy, Northern European, all-important and highly respected, simple-but-meaningful eye-contact, with each and every person at the table? Choose wisely. This evening is depending upon your decision.

7) After you have offered a respectful nod with genuine eye-contact to all around the table, you may gently sip from your glass, followed by slowly bringing the glass to your heart and ever so-subtly acknowledging everyone at the table again with a simple glance.

8) Place your glass back on the table, simultaneosly removing your left hand from the table after having successfully resisted the temptation to "go for your blade."

9) After the introductory Skål, any guest or the host may initiate individual Skål tributes throughout the evening by simply calling upon a person around the table by name, gently declaring "Skål," drawing eye-contact with said called upon person, sip, heart, glance, down.

10) Repeat often throughout the evening and often throughout your time in Sweden.

By the way, the word "Skål" comes from the Viking "trading" era. When the Vikings would begin "trading" with a new region, they would celebrate their first "trade" by cutting of the head of their "business partner", opening up their skull ("Skål), taking out the brains, adding alcohol and "gently sipping."

And don't even ask what the Vikings did if you didn't make eye contact....

"Skål!"