Thanksgiving in St. Petersburg

For the second year in-a-row, my Dad and I needed to come up with an ”alternative” Thanksgiving celebration. While we would have preferred to be home with family eating turkey with the trimmings, this year we chose to travel to a country that for so many years was the opposite of our country, the enemy during the Cold War and has always carried with it an air of mystery and suspicion right up to the present day.

Dad and I chose to go to Russia for many reasons. Primarily, and what I’m coming to realize as the most rewarding part of any travel adventure, we wanted to meet some native Russians, speak with locals about their culture, history and current life and times, as well as experience first-hand what Russia has to offer the curious, open-minded and connection-seeking traveler.

We were not disappointed.

The pictures above tell the story of many parts of our trip:

1. The beginning of a typical Russian winter that we wanted to experience, and did.

2. The State Hermitage Museum located in the former Winter Palace is nothing less than a history of Western (and some Eastern) Civilization, right up there -if not better than-Paris’ Louvre and Madrid’s Prado.

3. The Mariinsky Theater ballet, believed by some to be a notch above the Bolshoy in Moscow – in other words, the very best in all the world.

4. The Church on the Spilled Blood which looks more like the onion-domed churches you find in Moscow, but captures a typical Russian look anyways.

5. Narva Baptist Church friends.


The sight-seeing in any city is exciting and rewarding and offers the tourist a chance to fulfill what the imagination has only seen until that point, but the true meaning of a trip is found in the common interactions with locals and natives who often go out of their way to help you in your clumsy tourist state or want to give you their perspective as opposed to what they suspect you may have heard about them or their country.

I enjoy having my stereotypes and pre-conceived notions dispelled, or just flat-out crushed, by travel. Expecting the Russian people to be tough, stoic, thick-necked and unfriendly, my Dad and I were continually taken aback by the helpfulness, English-speaking friendliness and general good-natured qualities of the native Russians to which our travels led us. Such as:

The workers at our hostel went above and beyond to help our Russian experience be a good one. Extra phone calls to help with a major inconvenience and trips to and from the airport were just the beginning of their hospitality.

Encountering a problem with an ATM was the last thing we needed on a trip to Russia, but when we lost a card, there were no less than eight Russian bank employees with whom we needed to speak and each one was overly generous and willing to help, of course speaking only English. This turned out to be one of the best experiences of our trip as we reflected on the people we had met and how unexpectedly friendly and customer-service (even clueless customer-service) oriented they were.

Finally, through a friend here in Sweden, we were connected with a church in St. Petersburg and with a congregation that was more than welcoming, friendly and interested in us as travelers, Americans and visitors to their small, but genuine community.

Perhaps our experience was unique. Perhaps our Russian exposure was out-of-the-ordinary. Perhaps we just met all the good ones. But I doubt it.

Of course, not everyone’s experience with the Russian people will be like ours. However, as a child of the Cold War, with pre-conceived notions of the Russian people that I was really hoping would be debunked, my trip was a smashing success.

If you’re ready to take on the next traveler challenge, I highly recommend Russia.

Happy belated Thanksgiving, America. Though far away, I am thankful for all of you.

Skål

1) Do not even think about drinking out of your glass until the proper introductory "Skål" has been conducted.

2) Wait for the host(ess) to begin the Skål.

3) Hold your alcohol-filled glass with your right hand and put your left hand on the table directly in front of you parallel to your chest (to show the others at the table that you have no intention of "going for your blade").

4) After everyone at the table is properly prepared, the host may say a few words as an introduction, while glasses are in the air.

5) At the conclusion of the introduction, the host will declare "Skål!" (pr. "Skoal" for you Yankees) and everyone at the table, glasses remaining in the air, repeats "Skål!"

6) At this point, we have reached a pivotal moment. Will you "clank" glasses like a drunken American or will you resist this tempation of youth and choose the classy, Northern European, all-important and highly respected, simple-but-meaningful eye-contact, with each and every person at the table? Choose wisely. This evening is depending upon your decision.

7) After you have offered a respectful nod with genuine eye-contact to all around the table, you may gently sip from your glass, followed by slowly bringing the glass to your heart and ever so-subtly acknowledging everyone at the table again with a simple glance.

8) Place your glass back on the table, simultaneosly removing your left hand from the table after having successfully resisted the temptation to "go for your blade."

9) After the introductory Skål, any guest or the host may initiate individual Skål tributes throughout the evening by simply calling upon a person around the table by name, gently declaring "Skål," drawing eye-contact with said called upon person, sip, heart, glance, down.

10) Repeat often throughout the evening and often throughout your time in Sweden.

By the way, the word "Skål" comes from the Viking "trading" era. When the Vikings would begin "trading" with a new region, they would celebrate their first "trade" by cutting of the head of their "business partner", opening up their skull ("Skål), taking out the brains, adding alcohol and "gently sipping."

And don't even ask what the Vikings did if you didn't make eye contact....

"Skål!"

Cristina

Whether you are from Sweden, the United States or, unfortunately, anywhere else in the world, you have probably been touched in some way by cancer. This week we take a little break from the normal Linköpinglivin’ playful and serious exploration of Swedish and American culture in order to honor and remember my friend Cristina, who passed away this past week after a courageous six-year dance with cancer.

Cristina Maria Manieri and I were classmates during graduate school at Miami University in Ohio where we received our degrees in Student Affairs in 2001. Just a few months after our long-awaited graduation in May, at the immortal age of 25, Cristina was diagnosed with breast cancer, beginning a six-year odyssey, which left all of us admiring the courage and spirit of someone who could have just given in to the feelings of injustice, loneliness and despair that facing cancer brings.

The reason you choose education as a field of study and profession (which is the quickest definition of “Student Affairs” for the Swedish reader) is not salary or ease of work, but in order to make a difference. Making a difference in individual and community lives is the professional reward and motivation for anyone remotely connected to the education profession. While beginning to make a difference in the lives of the students with whom she worked, Cristina’s impact on this world took a very different, and arguably more powerful, turn when she was diagnosed with cancer. All of her perseverance, energy, stubbornness, devotion and childlike belief that she would overcome this inspired all of us who watched her laugh at disappointing diagnoses or health setbacks.

Over and over again, we as her friends and family would brace ourselves for the end but would soon realize that, to Cristina, this latest challenge was just the beginning. Her spirit was unmatched and will always be remembered by everyone who knew her. It was a privilege during this past week, as Cristina began to go downhill and the end was near, to be able to remind her that this too was just a beginning and that the rest of us were, in eternity’s eyes, just a few steps behind her.

Cristina passed away on Wednesday, November 7 in her hometown of Hopewell, Virginia, surrounded by family.

The next time you have the chance, do something to help us beat cancer once-and-for-all and, in the mean time, make sure those you love know it.

Here's to Cristina.

Halloween, Alla Helgons Dag, Holidays and Culture

As I watched the students with whom I work scramble to figure out the answer to what I thought was a simple question, “Does Sweden have Halloween and if so, when is it?,” I began to consider some elements of holidays and culture and, as you might have guessed, a blog entry was born.

After a year of simply observing the holidays of Sweden, an easy and very effective way to get to know a culture and discover what is meaningful in a society, this week I would like to put some words to my thoughts about holidays and traditions in Sweden.

This past week, Swedes celebrated Halloween (sort of) and Alla Helgons Dag or “All Saints Day.” In the U.S., we may hear about All Saints Day, knowing it happens sometime after Halloween (actually the day after) but very few pay close attention to it. Halloween has all the festivity, candy, costumes, attention and purchasing power that the U.S. wants.

One of the two major influences of the Swedish calendar and holidays is the Swedish church, Svenskyrkan, and the recognition of many saints and holy days throughout the year. Some of these days are official holidays (Ascension Day in May) and others are playful remembrances, yet still filled with meaning (Santa Lucia). Alla Helgons Dag in Sweden is celebrated in churches, with choir concerts in cathedrals and by the lighting of candles at the graveside of deceased loved ones (which makes for a beautifully solemn and reflective walk through a cemetery at night). As far as I can tell, Halloween has come in from outside of Sweden and is celebrated mostly by younger people (but not children, mind you – no trick-or-treating as far as I know) as an excuse to dress-up in costumes, eat, drink and be merry.

As for Sweden, the interplay of Halloween and Alla Helgons Dag perhaps serves as a nice little microcosm of what is happening in Swedish society in general. The holiday of Alla Helgons Dag is celebrated as one of the many traditional Svenskyrka, Swedish Church, holidays and Halloween, on the other hand, doesn’t fit quite right and seems to be media-influenced, even American-influenced and perhaps Swedes aren’t sure what to do with it? My research on this topic is woefully poor for the speculation I am attempting, but maybe some of Linköpinglivin’s Swedish friends could help us foreigners out on the whole Halloween-according-to-Sweden thing.

Safe to say, however, that some holidays are uniquely Swedish/Scandinavian and others are here for many different reasons, but just don't feel Swedish...a reflection of a continually changing, small but proud, society in today's world.

By the way, the other “major influence” of the Swedish calendar and holidays is simply the climate, the extremes of being this far north. Light, dark, warm and cold….

Speaking of holidays, make one more check mark under “Sweden as a Fairy Tale land.” Swedes, though not official holidays, celebrate the informal holidays of Kanelbullens Dag ("Cinnamon Bun Day" on October 4) and Våffeldagen ("Waffle Day" on March 25, strangely connected to the day Mary was first "with child").

I love Sweden.

Pictures above:

1. Trevlig Halloween!
2. A zombie and two Swedish angels share in a Colonia “Halloweensittning.”
3. Midsummer in June, in addition to Santa Lucia in December, is a great example of a holiday dictated by climate that means something much more in the extreme climate of the north than closer to the equator where there simply aren't seasons during the year.
4. Shaking the sugar during this year’s Kanelbullens Dag celebration at Colonia.
5. You simply can’t have too many Cinnamon Buns in Sweden. Fika forever!

The Top 10 Things Sweden and Southern California Have in Common

In an effort to continue the welcome to our new Southern California-based readers of Linköpinglivin’, this week’s entry explores the things that unite two places vastly different from one another, Sweden and Southern California.

Being uniquely qualified to, somehow, capture commonalities between two places as far away in climate as they are in distance (but, relatively speaking, sharing some similar cultural traits as two economically-strong, Western places), perhaps you can indulge me as I share this latest “Top 10” list on Linköpinglivin’:


The Top 10 things Sweden and Southern California have in common are:

10. A love of the sun (some just have it more than others).

9. An IKEA around every corner…

8. A love of coffee (some like it hot, others “iced”).

7. A great diversity of topography (mountains, water, farmland, desert…oh, wait).

6. The presence of reindeer at Christmas (one imaginary, the other real).

5. Beautiful people (but generally way too image-conscious).

4. A love of Swedish Fish (One is a brilliantly-marketed American candy and the other is fish caught in or near Sweden.)

3. A reputation to their geographical neighbors as being laid back, easy-going and politically left of center.

2. They both love their “football” teams…

1. And the #1 thing Sweden and Southern California have in common is:


….is….


....um......


Oh, forget it. Sweden and Southern California have only nine things in common (and even some of those were a stretch). This undoubtedly comes as a relief to people from both places.


Pictures above:

1. Don't be fooled. Sweden has approximately twice the coastline of California. This is Motola, a town near Linköping, on a nice summer's eve.

2. Okay, this is California. Specifically, me diving for a Frisbee in Santa Barbara last weekend.

3. As opposed to the American-based Santa & his reindeer story at Christmastime, Sweden actually has reindeer, and lots of them, in the north (and reindeer is delicious, by the way!).

4. Swedish Fish is an American candy almost as well loved as Ahlgren's Bilar in Sweden, but to the surprise of most Americans, Swedes have never heard of Swedish Fish.

5. One of the best parts of being a foreigner is getting together with other foreigners and sharing a common bond (as well as making fun of Swedes). Represented around the table here is Turkey, France, Singapore, the U.S. and....Sweden.

A Special Welcome to The Outlook Readers (and a trip home in pictures)

As Linköpinglivin' returns from an unusual mid-Autumn break, we must welcome the readers of the Outlook newspapers in Pasadena, California and soon, my hometown of La Canada, California (both thankfully spared in the recent wildfire devastation throughout Southern California).

The Outlook is a locally-based, hometown newspaper (now in two different neighboring cities) for which I am writing an occasional travel column beginning today. Starting with Sweden (which the Swedish readers of Linköpinglivin' would be very interested in reading - I'm working on getting an online link), I hope to introduce readers to some familiar and not-so-familiar parts of Europe and share some travel advice about being an American abroad.

So if you're a long time reader of this blog about the experience of living in a smaller town in Sweden, then hopefully we will have online access to this and future articles soon. And if you are brand new to Linköpinglivin', welcome to Sweden and please visit on a weekly basis to learn more about this often overlooked, but special part of Northern Europe and the adventures of an American living abroad.

Ironically, I just returned from a two-week swing through my west coast, former hometown cities of Seattle, La Canada and Santa Barbara. As always, this time at home was treasured and every moment was worth the long trip as the pictures attest:

1. What a difference 16 months makes. My cousins Lexi and Hunter as compared to their picture from June '06 on the right-hand side of this page.

2. Celebrating the wedding of a good friend, Chad Fransen (who has Swedish roots!), with my close friends in Seattle (Clay Robinson, Chad, Daniel Hinds, D.J. Del Rosario and Tony Scaringi).

3. A reunion of college friends where we went to school in Santa Barbara, California, a place as close to paradise as you will find in the USA (okay, besides Hawaii). Left to right: Jason Sunukjian, Jason Berns, Matt Gazaway, Dan Deeble and me in front of the famous Santa Barbara mission on yet another perfect day in "SB."

4. The Swedish summertime game of KUBB is introduced in the United States!

5. A competitive introductory game of KUBB lasts well over two hours and successfully adds one more Swedish product to the long list of Swedish items loved by Americans (IKEA, Volvo, ABBA, Pippi Longstocking and KUBB...).

The weekly commitment of "a new post by Monday night" should return to Linköpinglivin' this coming Monday. Good to be back. Vi ses snart!

Why It's So Cool to Live in Linköping - Part 1: Domkyrka

Some of you have figured it out. “Linköpinglivin’” may be a catchy title, but we all know this blog is about life in Sweden and sometimes even expands throughout Europe. In an effort to be true to the title, and to pass on some love and credit where love and credit are due, this week commences a five-part occasional series on what makes Linköping a special place to live. No better place to start than the undeniable heart of the city’s history and culture, Linköping’s Domkyrka (Cathedral).

To American eyes, the Domkyrkan is a quintessential example of historical Europe, a stunning architectural and historical edifice that simply defies what we would have ever thought could be built in the 1200s. To Swedish eyes, the Domkrykan may very well be taken for granted as one more historical icon in a part of the world with many historical icons. My hope is that the Domkrykan captures the imagination and wonder of Europe for the American and that the Swede takes a moment to re-consider (and even re-visit with fresh eyes?) this remarkable achievement.

From far away, off in the distance, as someone is approaching Linköping, the Domkrykan marks the spot, the heart of Linköping’s otherwise humble historical district. As one stands at the entrance and looks up, the surprise that this cathedral is in a town like Linköping reveals a naïve historical perspective, that only the biggest towns have the biggest toys. Linköping, being on a central road of both north-south and east-west commerce before and after Sweden’s dynastic era in the Middle Ages, was a natural location for pilgrims seeking a place to pay homage. The first limestones were laid in 1230 (1230!), and the initial church finally was completed in the mid 1500s. Throughout Europe, the townspeople who laid cathedrals’ foundations knew they would never see the completion in their lifetime, nor would the six generations after them! Apparently instant gratification is a recent concept…

Over that period of time of building, a lot changed in Europe. What was Romanesque architecture (rounded arches, large supports inside) became Gothic (pointed arches, outer buttress support) with a small element of Early English (decorative), as well. What was Catholic became Protestant and has ended up to resemble the Anglican Church of England more than anything else (the Swedish State Church, Svenskyrkan, is officially Lutheran).

The sense of awe and wonder that Americans seek when visiting Europe is not lost on the Domkyrkan. The second largest cathedral in Sweden (Uppsala – north of Stockholm), the Domkyrkan can be enjoyed any time of day, open and free to the public, and is still used for daily services of Vespers, occasional Mass and Sunday services in the evenings as well as visiting instrumental and choir concerts. As for attendance, only 5% of Swedes attend church regularly, but predictably the Christmas service is the high point of the calendar for the Domkrykan. Personally, the Santa Lucia concert celebrating light in the middle of darkness on December 13th was simply the most magical thing I witnessed my first year in not just Sweden, but all of Europe.

Whether visiting for spiritual, historical or cultural reasons, whether sharing the faith of the people who constructed it or simply curious, the Domkyrkan is one of many highlights throughout Linköping that will be covered in the coming weeks and months on Linköpinlivin’.

Finally, this month marks the seventh anniversary of my Grandmother Dorothy’s passing in October of 2000. Prior to coming to Sweden, I read Grandma’s trip diary from her Scandinavian tour back in 1982:

“After leaving Stockholm we went to Copenhagen stopping in Linköping to hear a concert in the cathedral there.”

If only Grandma had known that 24 years later, her then 9-year old grandson would be living and working in that city of the cathedral, doing his own trip journaling about the Domkyrkan. She would be delighted with this experience, as am I. Here’s to Grandma, the Domkyrkan and Linköping.

Pictures above:

1. Who would ever think that something this colossal would be found in quaint Linköping?
2. Inside the Domkrykan, the nave.
3. Pointed arches and buttresses (sometimes “flying”) reveal the Gothic architecture of the High Middle Ages (1000 – 1500).
4. The photographer’s favorite angle of Linköping’s Domkyrka.
5. A picture taken from Linköping University captures the stature of the Domkyrkan in comparison to the rest of Linköping.

Neutrality

Every-once-in-a-while, I come across a subject and think, “Oh yeah, how could I have overlooked that one?” and thus, a new Linköpinglivin’ topic is born. Sweden, as one of the two most famous neutral countries in the West (Switzerland), is proudly neutral, proudly absent of war for over a hundred years (which makes their Viking ancestors turn over in their graves, I’m sure) and I have some thoughts about all this non-violence, non-war, neutrality stuff.

First of all, a brief description about what “neutrality” means. A country that has declared itself neutral means that it will not initiate or participate in any act of war. What it does not mean is that it won’t defend itself if attacked. Neutrality also includes not allowing other countries military access or bases and other stipulations regarding alignment. Sweden does indeed have a military and would, I suspect, defend itself valiantly if attacked, but the Swedish stance of neutrality has created peace throughout this land for over a hundred years – something not many countries in the world can claim.

The advantages of neutrality are obvious. No war. Also, the ability to remain outside of any alignment obligations during any lead up to war. Politically, it completely changes the discussion, negotiation and position for government officials, diplomats, ambassadors and representatives. 100 years of peace. Enough said, right?

Well…

As impressive as this peaceful reality is, as always with things political and global, it’s just not that simple. In discussions I have had with various Swedes about this topic, there are clearly some disadvantages to a stance of neutrality, though no one is questioning that this political stance is right for Sweden.

First and foremost, not fighting Hitler poses the obvious and massive moral question. Despite their neutrality, it is well known that Sweden gave safe haven to Jews from throughout Scandinavia and participated in other measures believed to help the Allied forces. However, it is also well known that Nazi sympathizers throughout Sweden (of which there were many throughout non-German Europe – power is frighteningly intoxicating) provided advantage to the Axis powers, as well. Perhaps some native Swedes with some historical perspective on this can share more in depth about the legacy of World War II, neutrality and Sweden.

Another disadvantage is the self-deception, particularly in young people, that accompanies a successful (read: no war) neutral stance. I get the distinct impression that many people here think they are somehow above war. That other, less civilized, countries are the ones that have to resort to war because they cannot figure it out diplomatically or as adults. After initially questioning the practicality and moral virtue of “neutrality,” I definitely believe it is important to have neutral countries that are willing to intercede from their position on behalf of many other nations when the time calls for it, but make no mistake, Sweden can be successfully neutral because other countries choose to fight. These countries working together with Sweden is a good thing, but neutrality is a convenience that only a few specially placed and specific types of countries can or should enjoy.

Another disadvantage of a neutral stance, similar to the first, is the message that is sent to all Swedish citizens. Neutrality is easily mistaken for isolation and isolation is easily mistaken for non-participation. And non-participation in today’s world is simply not an option. I am often concerned that Swedes, particularly the young people I work with, are satisfied letting the rest of the world just do it’s own thing and as long as everything is okay up here in Sweden, then all is well. Does neutrality inevitably lead to disengagement? No. However, there can definitely be an underlying sense of isolated arrogance up here that is perhaps one of the casualties of a neutral stance.

Sweden is well equipped to be a world leader in so many ways, and many of those ways Sweden does indeed rise to that challenge, but would there be a greater nationwide sense of responsibility and engagement without the neutrality tag?

I’ve said far too much to exclude my qualifier of “I’m no geo-political expert.” These are simply concerns, observations and considerations meant to provoke some thoughts and maybe even discussion on such a vital and all-important topic on Linköpinglivin’ (much less, in Sweden).

For those that are interested in more about the current flood of Iraqi immigrants into Sweden, the International Herald Tribune (the global daily English newspaper published by the New York Times) provided an interesting article last week which also included some accurate summations of the Swedish character:

http://www.iht.com/articles/2007/09/26/america/edcohen.php

Pictures above? What kind of pictures capture “neutrality?” I don’t know so I posted some pictures of me throwing axes and swinging from a 40-foot high trapeze (and the students who joined me) this past weekend. Here's to controlled and harnessed violence in a non-violent, neutral country.

Dating, Relationships and Marriage in Sweden

From Sweden to the USA (and everywhere in between and all around), everyone’s favorite topic makes an appearance on Linköpinglivin’. I had to wait until I mastered this topic - you know became a professional at it…

As a foreigner, the first thing you’re told about Sweden and the subject of dating is “Women are self-sufficient – Don’t open that door! Don’t pay for that (whole) meal.” And while one must be prudent and thoughtful about one’s view of women in Sweden, certainly in the dating realm, I have found that Swedish women are like women everywhere. Although yes indeed self-sufficient, they certainly appreciate a thoughtful and, dare I say, chivalrous, significant other. They just want you to know they don’t need you ….or so I’ve been told.

Regarding marriage, well, let’s just say that Frank Sinatra’s famous song must not have quite made it all the way to Sweden, because love and marriage apparently do not always go together in Sweden. One of the things that struck me as I was becoming familiar with Swedish society is the Swedish (and I have heard European) penchant for long-term relationships with everything but the formal, legalized marriage. I know multiple couples who have been together for years, same house, same budget, two kids, everything looks like a marriage, but then and only then, maybe will they decide to actually and officially tie the knot. This scenario has described three of my colleagues in just the past year.

Unlike the U.S., there is no extra tax or government-motivated reason for marriage. As I understand it, whether you are living together, married or single, your taxes are the same.

For those who do choose to have a wedding ceremony, they are predictably understated in Sweden (especially in comparison to the U.S.). The Swedish cultural norm of “don’t draw attention to oneself” even influences the bride and groom who often choose to have a very small wedding with just the closest of family and friends in attendance. Ceremonies are usually held in a church, but often in a natural setting consistent with the Swedish love of nature. And, while legal and recognized since 1995, homosexual marriage is performed as a civil ceremony.

And something interesting to read for the Americans, just this past week a church in Sweden denied the request of a bride to have her father walk her down the aisle and "give her away" saying that this is just a tradition brought over by American-made television and very "unswedish." Read: http://www.thelocal.se/8571/

Swedish equality: Foreign men, be on alert!

As for my personal experience contributing to this topic of dating and relationships in Sweden? I’ll just say that if you ever read about it on the blog, you’ll know I’ve officially lost it in Sweden!

Finally the pictures above, which I don’t have to stretch too much to make them fit into this topic:

1. Stockholm’s Stadshuset or “city hall.” Some choose to get married here and the ceremony is often held in under one minute…

2. & 3. Strollers, continuing a theme on Linköpinglivin’, are everywhere in Sweden. This summer I found two curious places for strollers, at least to the eyes of a foreigner. Amongst canons at Kalmar’s castle and on the beach in Öland, literally almost a surfing stroller. Only in Sweden.

See you next week.

Language of Love & Love of Language

Answer A: French.

Answer B: A description of my continual fascination with the non-American approach to communicating with the world.


A collision of norms is something that happens when one travels, much less moves, to a foreign country. To a European, this week’s Linköpinglivin’ topic will be old news and boring because everyone speaks at least two languages - that's just normal. However, to the American, 98% of whom speak confidently in only one language, the topic of language can be filled with amazement. During my time in Sweden, I continue to be impressed by the ability of Europeans to speak multiple languages and I have two illustrations that "speak" to this ability:

Illustration 1:
Last winter I called a friend of mine from Germany who was an au pair in Linköping. Judith was already talking on the home phone line to another friend who is German and I was on her cell phone. Meanwhile, as the responsible au pair, Judith was also speaking with and taking care of the Swedish children with whom she was living. Envisioning this scene, I clarified, “So, Judith, you’ve got me on your cell phone speaking English, Stine on the home phone speaking German and you’re speaking with the kids in Swedish all at once?” Matter of factly and without sharing my impressed tone, Judith responded “yes.”

Just another day in Europe….


Illustration 2:
Sara is someone I met this weekend. Speaking with her in English and knowing she attended a Swedish-speaking school, I knew Sara spoke at least two languages. However, Sara had recently moved from Lebanon where she had become quite comfortable with Arabic and, somewhere along the line, Sara had also picked up French. Sara knew four languages quite comfortably. Sara is 12 years old!

Admittedly, this is impressive even by European standards. I walked away humbled as my Swedish language acquisition is currently stagnant.

Swedish elementary school students begin learning English in 3rd grade. They begin a third language (usually German, French or Spanish) in 9th grade. When they graduate from high school they know at least three languages and are well equipped to learn a lot more. Impressive.

As Americans, we miss out on an enriching cultural experience when our only language learning in high school consists of merely fulfilling requirements. There’s just rarely the motivation to dive into a new language when one knows they probably will never use it outside of school. Here in Europe, they know they will use it, and enjoy using it, most of their lives. Perhaps with globalization current American students can learn, knowing they will actually use the language, and not as something to fulfill an empty requirement in order to graduate….

The last of my expected visitors were here this past weekend. Two former students at the University of Washington, Zach Tobin and Niki Iglesias, concluded a European trip of the big three (London, Paris, Rome), Prague and Linköping (!), yes, and also Stockholm. “Tack” for making the effort to come all the way up here to the Arctic, Zach and Niki. It was a pleasure to have you in Sverige. On the subject of language, by the way, Zach took Russian in college for no particular reason other than an appreciation of the culture. Nice work, Zach.

Pictures above:
1. A summertime dusk picture of Stockholm harbor taken by my Dad.
2. The biggest Dalarna Horse you will find in the world is in Skansen - that's my cousin, Ashley, too.
3. They have miniature golf in Sweden. It's the hardest miniature golf on the planet. I got a 10 on this hole.
4. Zach and Niki in Stora Torget, Linköping.
5 Zach and Niki discover American-sized kanelbullar (cinnamon buns) in Stockholm's Gamla Stan.

More Swedish Fun Facts (and another Crayfish party)

It has recently been brought to my attention in one form or another that Linköpinglivin' could be a very helpful resource for a foreigner, particularly American, who is coming to live in Sweden for a period of time or forever. With that in mind, I've started to think of a few things that I have perhaps overlooked, but that need some mention, if I ever want this blog to be a legitimate resource for the naïve foreigner looking to make it past their first queue line in Sweden. For the rest of you, consider these some more Swedish fun facts "not important enough to have a full blog entry":

1. What happens when you mix Scandinavian equality, love of nature, a small population and one of the largest square km. countries in all of Europe? Allemansrätten or "Every man's right," which every Swede knows, loves and uses, states that you may sleep for one night anywhere in the countryside or islands of Sweden, yes even inside of fences on owned property, without permission as long as you don't disturb anyone and leave everything as you found it. But if you want to stay two nights, well you're just gonna have to ask permission!

2. I'm no expert on this subject, but Swedish male fashion, with it's liotard-tight jeans, skin-tight shirts and "fo-hawk," which probably comes from the French word "faux" or "fake" and I just like to call the "Swedish mullet," leaves a lot to be desired...I'll try to get a good picture of this someday soon for Linköpinglivin'.

3. If you submitted a tax return in Sweden, which of course everyone should, then it is public record and anyone can look up how much you submitted, thus being able to approximate one's salary and worth. This shocked me for a society as private as Sweden.

4. Sweden is a country of systems and order. When you go into almost any retail shop or business that expects multiple customers at once, you must obey the almighty queue - immediately take a nummerlapp in order to stand in the queue line. Eventually your number will be called, but if you ever want to piss off a Swede, just ignore the queue and step up to the front of the line. The Swedish queue system is always one of the first things a foreigner must learn, and also one of the first things discussed when foreigners are making fun of Sweden. Trust me, I know.

5. The U.S. often laments the two-party stranglehold on politics by the Republicans and Democrats (I guess there is also the Green Party). In Sweden, there are seven different parties, but in the end, most align themselves with one of the equivalents of the conservative (Moderate) or liberal (Social Democrat) parties. Last year, the Moderates won a victory for the first time in over 50 years. The next election is in three years.

6. Every Swede knows that "Sweden's most bought car" is not a Volvo, SAAB, Audi, BMW, Mercedes or any other manufactured car, but Sweden's beloved "Ahlgrens Bilar" marshmellow/gummy candy that no Swede is able to resist when offered... kind of like the American's love for gummy candy, but much more love.

http://www.ahlgrensbilar.com/

7. Once again, systems and order. After learning about the almighty queue, all foreigners must go obtain their personnummer or "personal number." Much more than the Social Security number in the U.S., you need your personal number at all times in all places in Sweden if you hope to accomplish anything. Swedes are fond of saying that they "don't have names, just numbers," but unlike in the U.S. where we are concerned about eventually becoming controlled by these numbers, it appears that Swedes actually kind of like it!

8. In the U.S., hot dogs are looked down upon as unhealthy, cheap, bad-for-you food (except when at a baseball game, on a national holiday in the spring or summer or on a Manhattan or Chicago street corner). However, it seems that in Sweden and much of Europe, corner-bought street food, and especially hot dogs, are perfectly acceptable and permissable, not looked down upon or considered socially ignorant. This is one of the few ways in which Sweden is like Manhattan.

9. Unlike the stereotype, it simply isn't true that all Swedes are blonde. However, it is true that all Swedish children are blonde. It's really quite remarkable. And we're not just talkin' light hair or sandy blonde, it's called toe-head, almost-white blonde and Swedish children are all that! I think the cutest kids on earth are little black kids, but Swedish kids and their shiny blonde hair are a close second.

10. Just in case you were wondering, Fall has hit Sweden. Almost on cue, as August turned to September, the temperature dropped 20 degrees (10 Celsius) and all the shorts and shirts were put away until Valborgsmässoafton.

Pictures above:

1. This past week, I celebrated my second Kräftfiske party. Unlike last year, this year we successfully captured hundreds of live crayfish. For more on my thoughts about Swedes and their beloved crayfish, see the Linköpinglivin' entry from about a year ago.
2. A colleague, Cecilia, says "Hej" to a crayfish.
3. It's not Deadliest Catch, but it was fun.
4. Songs, crayfish bibs, plenty of food and drink and cameras are all part of a Swedish Crayfish party.
5. My summary of this delightful Swedish festivity.

See you next week.

Diversity, Homogeneity and Race in Sweden: Part 1

When people ask me what is the most negative thing about Sweden, I do not reply with “the darkness” or “the winter” or typical answers you might hear from a foreigner (a Southern Californian, no less) not used to being this far north. As I was asked this question towards the end of my first year here, I found myself answering with another bi-product of geographical inconvenience: the homogeneity of Sweden (and to be fair, all of Scandinavia).

As the world knows, diversity in general and race in particular are two elements that greatly impact virtually every corner of the United States. The great American experiment of being a homeland for anyone and everyone, from all lands, continents and countries, is still undergoing its growing pains and almost-daily events are witness to the good, the bad and the ugly about a country with so much difference and diversity. And of course, other countries face similar challenges of bringing differences among people together.

In what will be the first of possibly several ongoing parts in Linköpinglivin’, I would like to take a closer look at the issue of diversity in Sweden.

I broach this subject with trepidation because of the obviously charged subject matter, but also because I have not done the adequate “research,” i.e., talked to numerous people about the topic of diversity, good and bad, in Sweden. There’s been some discussion, but most of this is based on observation and conscious and unconscious assumptions that may or may not be valid. Please feel free to add your input, whether a native Swede, fellow foreigner or immigrant, or interested American. For purposes of brevity, I will focus more on race in Sweden than among other differences among people.

Sweden simply does not have the diversity of people to the same extent that other countries do. This makes perfect geographical sense. Though immigrants flood through Sweden’s borders during times of war in other lands, Balkans in the late 90s and Iraqis-in-droves now – 22,000 just in 2006 compared with America’s 7,000 - the overall racial homogeneity of Sweden remains the same. Most everyone is Caucasian, most everyone’s parents are Swedish and, like all cultures, there is certainly a way of doing things that all people from other lands must learn.

I come from the assumption that we as human beings are drawn to and trust that which is similar to us. The opposite of this is, as human beings, we tend to avoid or even fear that which is different from us. While Sweden is well known for being welcoming of foreigners because of helpful immigration laws and social policies, this has not impacted the overall sameness of Sweden. In fact, considering Jante Law, “sameness” is a very admirable trait in Swedish culture. Swedes don’t like to stand out in a crowd, the houses and neighborhoods throughout the country all look alike, dress is very similar and not drawing attention to oneself is respected.

But can a society that is so similar in appearance be confident that all people, no matter the racial and cultural background, are accepted and have the same opportunities as everyone else? If two people, one Iraqi and one Swede, apply for a job with virtually equal qualifications, but one “looks” more Swedish among a work group of similar-looking people, does this not, in the end, play a major role in deciding who gets the job? This is the kind of question often being asked in America and I ask it here in Sweden.

One of the characteristics of the U.S. that I have heard here is that “Americans are racist.” While there is ample evidence of this on one level, I am led to ask the question (hopefully in an educational manner and not in defense) in response, “Are we sure that Swedes are not racist, as well?” How do we know when so few opportunities for finding out are presented because people are so similar in appearance and behavior?

I’m the first to say that there remains a strong element of racism in the U.S. Sometimes unconscious and sometimes blatant, but how is the question of race understood and answered in a place so homogeneous?

In speaking with one black person in Sweden, in response to the question of whether he has felt treated any differently because of race, he responded that he has not, which was an impressive statement about the Swedes. Yet this was just one person’s opinion.

There’s no way to cover it all in a blog of the same length of my normal entries, so I have posed a few questions and am looking for some responses. More on this topic is sure to come in the near future.

Here’s a fun fact: There’s almost no Jews in Sweden. Synagogues are very hard to come by and Hannukah is completely invisible in December. Yep, lots to consider in a part of the world that, geographically, culturally and historically, wrestles with questions of diversity much differently than what I’m used to in the U.S.

And one more comment related: Everyone in Sweden and some of you in the U.S. have heard about the recent cartoon controversy in Sweden where a Swedish newspaper published a cartoon of the Prophet Muhammed. This created quite a stir in the Muslim community from here to Iran. You might remember the riots and anger that followed a similar cartoon in Denmark in 2005. What happens when a cultural hallmark of the West, freedom of expression, collides with the sacred religious tradition of 1.3 billion people? It’s a big question on many levels, continuing to present itself in many ways, but recently the Prime Minister of Sweden, Fredrik Reinfeldt, stood courageously on the side of protecting freedom of expression. At a time in history when the West dances gingerly around all questions of Western values vs. Muslim tradition, this was a valiant stand. Though certainly not in agreement with the portrayal of the Prophet Muhammad in this cartoon, I think we disrespect ourselves and others when we break our values of freedom to appease certain cultural/religious traditions. The same day, there was a news story on U.S. television about recent “art” that compared Osama Bin Laden to Jesus. Not a word came out from even the most fundamental Christians to somehow abolish art or kill the artist. It’s somehow not acceptable in the West for government officials to come out and say publicly that various Muslim traditions run totally contrary and are not acceptable with our Western values and freedoms, though everyone deep down knows this to be true. Kudos to Reinfeldt. Find out more about this at The Local website link found on the right-hand side of this blog. Please share your thoughts.

Pictures:
1. A big group of similar-looking Swedes.
2. Another big group of similar-looking Swedes.
3. Last weekend, my brother and I surprised my Dad in Paris – though it may look like it, this photo was not staged. Just the perfect location to reveal the surprise.
4. Three Whiting boys in Paris – France will never be the same.
5. Sean vs. Escargot. I won and am now a big fan of France’s most famous appetizer.