Linköpinglivin'

www.tuk-tuktalker.blogspot.com - Come Join the Fun!

2008-12-01T20:21:00.001-08:00

And with this entry, we conclude Linköpinglivin'.

It's been a great journey - for which I am so grateful to all the faithful and occasional readers and commenters - and I can't wait to get back to Sweden someday soon.

Until then, please come join the fun in Thailand:

http://www.tuk-tuktalker.blogspot.com/

Vi ses en dag snart, Sverige!

A Thailand Time Out

2008-11-24T22:51:00.001-08:00

For someone so compelled by Europe’s history, culture, food, people and grandeur, and for someone who proudly declares how much he prefers cool weather to hot weather, and for someone who still had not explored so many areas of Europe that simply cannot be missed (Ireland, Spain, ITALY!), an excursion to Thailand might have seemed like a curious choice.

Sure, plenty of Swedes take that flight from Stockholm to Bangkok, and then they head straight to Thailand’s famous beaches and islands, but Sean never went anywhere in Europe for beaches or warm weather (Russia in November?).

“Okay, I’ll come down, hang out in Thailand for a couple weeks, then I gotta get back to Europe and continue my escapade until I go home for Christmas.” This was my plan.

There was an empty seat on my plane from Bangkok to Rome that left last Thursday morning.

Amazing how travel and life priorities can be altered when someone captures your heart….

I’ll be staying in Thailand for a little while, but despite my ever-changing plans, you can always rely on a weekly blog entry to cover the story of some travel adventures, some cultural discoveries and, apparently, some unexpected (though welcomed) turns on the journey of life.

However, a blog entitled Linköpinglivin’ simply won’t suffice in Thailand.

Next week will mark the last official blog entry to Linköpinglivin’ in the form of a link to a new blog about my “time out” in Thailand. Blog title suggestions are currently being accepted.

See you next week, one last time before we “all” make the jump to Linköpinglivin’, the sequel.

Pictures above:

1. Just another day guiding a bamboo raft in the mountains of Thailand.

2. Paige and Sean river rafting, Thailand-style.

3. A Thai barbecue helps celebrate a birthday of some of Paige's students.

4. In the back of a "Tuk-tuk" motorbike taxi, the best form of road transportation in Thailand.

5. Baby elephants are large, but cute.

Thailand Part 2: Chiang Mai

2008-11-17T21:34:00.000-08:00

As my post-Sweden/Thailand experience continues, and Bangkok just becomes bigger and bigger with endless opportunities for new sights, exploration and ways to enjoy the warmth of climate and people, I remember that any trek to Thailand must include getting away from Bangkok and its metropolitan city-life in order to be exposed to a truer Thailand, a more revealing perspective of what distinguishes Thailand and this regional culture from other countries in the world.

Chiang Mai is Thailand’s second city and a 12-hour overnight train ride will get you to this northern, mountain enclave for a completely different experience of Thailand. Chiang Mai is almost like an overgrown village. Not too many large buildings, just a few scattered highways and very little of it screams “commercialism.” All you need to know is, despite Chiang Mai’s population of nearly 1 million people, you have to search far and wide to find a McDonalds, which I just had to look up on the internet in order to know if there even was one.

Though a popular tourist destination for backpackers and other “farang” (foreigners) for the many markets, festivals, elephant riding, cooking and massage classes, Chiang Mai has a much more personal and comfortable atmosphere than Bangkok, still maintaining pieces of culture which include Thai, Lao, Burmese and Chinese influences due to its location on a historically significant trade route.

And if you travel enough, every-once-in-awhile, your scheduling benefits from your complete lack of planning and awareness – unbeknown to me, Thailand’s famous Loi Kratong festival was taking place three of the four nights I was there, so the night sky was lit up with flame-powered air lanterns and the river was speckled with candles resting on banana leafs celebrating the 12th month’s full moon.

Yes, I’m a long way from Sweden.

And the United States.

Perhaps one of the best parts for the visiting “farang” from the north is that Chiang Mai’s mountain climate decreases the temperature dramatically, which was welcomed by this converted Swede still getting used to temperatures above 30 degrees Celsius.

More from Thailand next week, including some clarity to my ever-changing personal plans for post-Sweden.

Pictures above:

1. "Sawat-dee k'ap" from Thailand!
2. The elephant is the animal symbol of Thailand. Asian elephants are smaller and have smaller ears than their more famous African counterparts.
3. Night festivals for Loi Kratong include endless colors, décor and lights. Thailand is very good at color, décor and light.
4. A Loi Kratong hot-air lantern takes to the sky (picture courtesy of the internet).
5. This is Paige – the reason I am in Thailand. More about Paige on Linköpinglivin’ next week.

Thailand Part 1: Bangkok

2008-11-08T16:45:00.000-08:00

This week, my post-Sweden life began by stepping off a plane in a part of the world I had never before experienced, South East Asia. While I had been to Shanghai as a teenager (back when going to China wasn’t cool), I had never been this far south on our globe - quite the shock after having never been that far north in Sweden.

My vision of Bangkok before arriving was a huge, chaotic, congestion-filled, dirty, hot and unruly city that would be, well, quite a change from Scandinavia.

This perception is accurate, but I’ve already learned to get past the initial traumatic welcome to one of the world’s biggest cities (10 million live in Bangkok) and discover what lies behind the big city organized chaos.

Two things strike the unsuspecting visitor to Thailand: Warmth of climate and warmth of people. For those of you in Sweden, brace yourselves. Thailand has been hovring at about 30 degrees this week (88 Farenheit). Yeah, it's tropical. Yeah, it's nice. Yeah, even for someone who generally prefers the cooler weather, it's not so bad.

More importantly though, even in the big city, due to the friend I am visiting here, I have been able to connect with Thai people in a way that surpasses what travelers usually experience. This has made all the difference in my first week in Thailand. The Thai people on the street and in the home are quick to smile, quick to laugh and display a warmth and friendliness that touches the traveler from the beginning.

My advice when travelling to any part of the world: Get past the initial impressions of the place, be they positive or negative, and get to know the people. After just five full days in Bangkok, the warmth of hospitality and welcome that Thai people have developed a reputation for is clear.

Check back next week for more from Thailand and what my post-Sweden life is bringing…

Pictures above:

1. Thailand’s flag.
2. Temples abound throughout Thailand, but the most illustrious and ornate are found in the heart of touristy Bangkok.
3. More mesmerizing temples.
4. Three examples of transportation in Bangkok: Taxi, bus and “tuk-tuk,” the tourist’s favorite way to get from point A to point B in Bangkok.
5. Welcome to Thailand, Sean.

A New Adventure: Thailand

2008-11-02T14:34:00.000-08:00

It was a somewhat remarkable and wholly unexpected set of circumstances that brought me to Sweden and now it is a remarkable and wholly unexpected set of circumstances that will take me to Thailand, my first stop in my post-Sweden life. I fly to Bangkok tomorrow.

I can just hear all you Swedes saying “one last vintage Swedish experience for Sean, because flying to Thailand has indeed become a very Swedish experience.” It’s estimated that 4% of all Swedes went to Thailand last year (360,000!), but I assure you that my plans don’t include sitting on a beach all day every day, okay maybe just a few days…

As this is the final blog entry about this country that I have come to appreciate and enjoy so much, I want to extend a word of “tack så mycket” to the many Swedish, American and other readers for their contributions and faithful reading of Linköpinglivin’ over the past two-plus years. This blog, and the enjoyment I have found through it, has been one of the most unexpected highlights of my Swedish experience. You helped make this a rich and rewarding Sunday/Monday evening exercise.

And to emphasize the point once again, though the Swedish influence on this blog will be concluding with this entry, the blog itself will continue, so if you’d like to stick around and see what the next adventure has in store, you would be most welcome.

Svenskar, jag har kommit att älska dina land och människor. Jag kommer sakna er, Linköping, Stockholm, fika, sommar ljus, vinter snö, köttbullar, prinsesstårta, Santa Lucia, Domkyrkan, Kanevad, Åbacka, Mjellerums Gård, Norins Ost, Äntligen bröd, Bilar, Stora Torget, Bosses Glassbar, LHC, röda sommar stugor, Ryttargårdskyrka, kanelbullar, Svenskaspråket och så mycket om Sverige. Tack så jätte mycket för allt. Ska komma tillbaka snart!

Hej då Linköping, hej då Sverige. Vi ses.

To Thailand. Please come along.

Linköpinglivin' Welcomes Budget Travel Readers

2008-10-26T13:16:00.001-07:00

A special welcome to Linköping and Sweden for all readers discovering Linköpinglivin’ for the first time.

Budget Travel, one of the most popular monthly travel magazines in the United States, seeks to help the common traveler find unique and affordable experiences of travel both inside the U.S. and worldwide. The November issue of Budget Travel has a feature about how to start a travel blog and includes some advice from (and a link to) Linköpinglivin’.

For over two years, Linköpinglivin’ has taken a sometimes playful and sometimes meaningful look at Sweden through the eyes of a foreigner. Linköping (pronounced "Lin-shipping") is found two hours south of Stockholm and is Sweden's fifth largest city. This blog can be intriguing for Americans of Swedish or Scandinavian descent, helpful for foreigners who have responsibilities or relationships with Swedes and entertaining, maybe even enlightening, for Swedish readers who until now have made up more than half of the weekly readers.

However, this is an interesting time to potentially increase the Linköpinglivin' readership level since my memorable experience of living and working in Sweden will be coming to an end next week. While the blog itself will continue as my travel and new cultural exposures are only just beginning, the Swedish focus will be shifting, and shifting quite dramatically, too.

After one more journey to Prague to visit my Dad this coming week, my adventure abroad will continue, but far from the European escapade that I have come to enjoy so much.

Linköpinglivin’ welcomes first-time readers and promises all readers that if you’ve come to look forward to this weekly perspective on culture and travel, rest assured that your best procrastination excuse will indeed be continuing.

See you next week as we wrap-up Sweden and look to the next great experience of people and travel a long way from where we started.

Pictures above:

1. The November issue of Budget Travel (see an earlier blog entry on the subject of starting a travel blog from April 2008 on Linköpinglivin').

2. Though all Scandinavian flags have this type of cross pattern, Sweden's is the beloved blå o gul, blue and yellow.

3. Me during my first adventure in Gamla Stan, Stockholm's Old Town, in 2006.

4. Linköping has a massive cathedral called Domkyrkan. I've always enjoyed the smaller town community and charm of this humble city with some really great people. They will all be missed.

5. Bikes are the friendly mode of transportation for many in Sweden and Linköping's main square always reveals this....

Swedish Fun Facts: One Last Time...

2008-10-20T13:42:00.001-07:00

It’s been over two years, but new things keep popping up in Sweden (or old things that I realize I never mentioned on Linköpinglivin’), so settle in for one last go 'round of Swedish Fun Facts:

*Swedes refer to the weeks of the year not as “the last week in February” or “the middle weekend in October,” but, predictably in Sweden, the weeks of the year all have numbers. The first week in January is Week 1, the fourth week in January is Week 4, etc. Christmas is always Week 52 and as for the other week numbers, who in the world could ever keep track? Well, not even the Swedes. That’s why they have a handy website: http://www.vecka.nu/ Just click here and all your woes about the weeks will be solved! The numbers of the week starts to work as soon as you get a calendar which includes them…

*Many of you have started to notice the wide array of “köping” towns located in southern Sweden. In addition to Linköping and the previously mentioned Norrköping and Söderköping, there is also Nyköping, Enköping, Jonköping, and just Köping. Köpa means “to buy” in Swedish and these were commercial towns on the way from Stockholm to Malmö and the rest of Europe in days gone by.

*Sweden is a country, similar to what is well known about Japan, where guests are generally expected to remove their shoes upon entering a home. Those shoes are usually full of snow, mud, rainwater and such that mess up what is usually a nice Swedish hardwood floor.

*Worldwide opinion considers Swedes to be very open about sex and there is a strong perception of strong promiscuity among Swedish women. This mis-perception came from a Swedish film in the early 70s that pushed the boundaries of what is acceptable and became internationally acclaimed. The fact is that Swedes are very modest in public and are extra sensitive when a woman is publicly degraded for the sake of advertising or tabloids.

*However, Swedes are also known for letting go a little bit when they leave the boundaries of their own country! Apparently, lagom (“not too much, not too little, just right”) often only applies to a Swede only while in Sweden…

*In Sweden, if you don't want to receive advertisements in your mailbox, you merely need to post a sign or attach a sticker "Ingen reklam, tack," which means "No advertisements, thanks." How un-American of them!

*I heard recently that as high as 4% of the Swedish population traveled to Thailand last year alone (approximately 360,000). That’s the same percentage of Americans that OWN a passport… (other recent popular travel spots for Swedes escaping the darkness of winter have been the Canary Islands and the Costa Del Sol in Spain).

*Swedes usually consider November the longest month of winter (even though it’s not officially winter yet) because it’s too early for snow, but it’s getting darker and darker every day and the next festive occasion is still a month away… Glad I’m skipping town before November’s darkness arrives!

This has been fun. There’s plenty more interesting, curious and unexplained fun facts about Sweden and her people, but you’ll just have to come here and find out for yourself from now on. I will leave Sweden in two weeks.

After lamenting recently about my overlooking of Stockholm’s bar made entirely of ice, I decided to try it out during my last trip to Sweden’s capital. Tons of fun, as I knew it would be. It was really "cool."

Unexpectedly, I had one more visitor to Sweden, the last of my 26. Kelly Ronan, a former student with whom I worked at the University of Washington made the trek up from Romania where she is working for the fall. From Stockholm to Linköping, IKEA to the Ice Bar, frukost to fika, Kelly was a more than memorable final guest. Thanks for the impressive pilgrimage, Robo, and for our continuing friendship long after Seattle.

Pictures above;

1. One recently-captured crayfish looks much bigger than it actually is in the hands of a student with whom I work.

2. That is one American-sized kanelbulle found in a storefront window in Linköping.

3 - 5. Friend and final visitor, Kelly, enjoys a boat ride and a cold bar in Stockholm.

Why It's So Cool To Live In Linköping - Part 5: Norin's Ost

2008-10-13T11:25:00.001-07:00

If you’re not hungry when you start reading this blog entry, you will be by the end of it. Ost means “cheese” in Swedish and the mere sound of that word causes fika-loving Swedish hearts to soar.

In Linköping, we have a little cheese shop. Actually, there are two of these little cheese shops in Linköping and then one more up the road in Norrköping. These are the kinds of shops Americans walk into and think, “I love being in Europe!”

Most people might think of these kinds of shops being in France, Switzerland, Italy and other places where cows (and sheep and goats) roam, but we have one up in Sweden, too. We have one in Linköping. And, in this humble bloggers opinion, it’s the best little cheese shop in the entire country.

Go Linköping.

To conclude our five-part Linköpinglivin' series on why living in Linköping is so cool, we take a look at Norins Ost.

Lena and Mats Norin are the third generation of cheese shop owners in their family. Since 1931, making Norin’s Ost the oldest cheese shop in Sweden, the Norin family has provided Linköping with Swedish-made, and more recently France- and Italian-imported, fresh cheese of all kinds: Hard, soft, cow, sheep, goat, blue, white, sharp, mild, expensive, inexpensive, cheese that smells bad, cheese that smells good, cheese that you will hate and cheese that you will love.

It’s an acquired taste, but if you know what I’m talking about, the smell of a good cheese shop can’t be beat. (And if you have never been in one, you will want to leave at first waft, but stick with it - it gets better.)

As if merely importing and “maturing” (as opposed to the actual making) wasn’t enough, the Norin family spends time distributing their cheeses throughout Sweden, educating groups, business and individuals about the art of cheese, wine and virtually everything that makes for a good picnic as well as working hard to find the next great discovery in the wide world of cheese. Speaking of good picnics, you can also pick up marmalade, crackers, vinegars, olive oils, cookies, chocolate truffles, pesto, olives, mustard and dried fruits of all kinds at Norin’s Ost shops.

Fresh, local, variety, high quality, personal touch, Linköping knows where to get the best cheese for breakfast, lunch, dinner or fika. Just check out the website and observe what one American travel writer affectionately refers to as “a festival of mold,” the European cheese shop.

http://www.norinsost.se/

Pictures above:

1. Norins Ost is found on Storgatan above Stora Torget and also down on Nygatan below Trädgårdstorget in Linköping and on Knäppingsborg in Norrköping.

2 - 4: Cheese, glorious cheese.

5. Lena Norin and an American treasuring the time behind the glass at a European cheese shop.

Woulda, Coulda, Shoulda in Sweden

2008-10-06T11:51:00.001-07:00

Woulda, Coulda, Shoulda in Sweden

After over two years, 100 weekly blog postings, hundreds of fikas, a few trips here and there and a lifetime of adventures and experiences as a privileged temporary local in Sweden, my days of watching and living everything Swedish are coming to an abrupt end.

On November 3rd (less than a month), I will step on a plane that will take me away from Sweden, only to return someday as a visitor. Where that plane will take me is something for a later blog entry, but for now I want to consider, in the midst of all the things I have experienced and enjoyed in this great land, a few of the things I wish I had been able to fit into my all-too-short Swedish escapade, but sadly did not.

In good ol’ American optimism, the following list can also be considered a list of goals for me to accomplish as a visitor to Sweden in the future, because I hope to always have a trip to Sweden planned in my future. Like most Americans I have talked to who have at one time lived here in Sweden, I shall miss it terribly when I am gone.

10 regrets, also known as goals for the future, from Sweden:

10. I never made it north for the midnight sun experience. In fact, even more than the midnight sun, I would have liked to get to the north of Sweden to compare and contrast the Sweden I have come to know with what life is like up there. Most people around here with whom I share this regret gently reassure me with the following words, “That’s okay, Sean. We’ve lived here our whole lives and we’ve never been up there….”

9. Not only did I never make it to the famed (at least outside of Sweden) Ice Hotel, but I didn’t even do the Ice Bar, which is located in Stockholm and Copenhagen. I take solace in the fact that this is a touristy experience that I never did, but then again, I loved all the other touristy things I did in Sweden (Skansen and the Vasa Museum over 10 times each – c’mon, I had visitors, of course!).

8. I never learned to like, or really even try, the Swedes’ beloved caviar-in-a-tube or liver paste that spreads like butter , both popular with the over 1,000 fikas in which I participated. Okay, I’ll admit, this one is NOT a goal for the future.

7. Unless something strange happens in the next few weeks, I will never have had to experience anything remotely having to do with Sweden’s health care system, which makes my personal defense of this “socialist” system a little weaker to my American friends and family…

6. In addition to the north, I missed Dalarna, the Glass Kingdom and the island off the east coast of Sweden, Götland, which apparently has an outstanding medieval city in Visby. And if that’s not enough, with all the travel I did, I never made it up to Norway…..ouch.

5. Though it vastly improved over the course of time, my “sj” and “sk” Swedish pronunciations always revealed me to be the English speaking soul that I am. I hate those letters….

4. Bilar and Äntligen bread, two of my favorite everyday foods in Sweden, are two of the many things I will regretfully need to be weaned off of.

3. The Royal Palace at Drottningholm. Yeah, missed that, too. But I saw the Vasa 11 times….

2. I never walked onto someone else’s property, threw down my tent and sleeping bag and stayed overnight. Nope, won’t be doing much allmänsrätt in the U.S., that’s for sure.

1. You know those high taxes I’ve been paying from my salary and every last cinnamon bun or train ticket purchase? Yeah, those high taxes. Well, I won’t ever see one krona of that in paternity leave, retirement, health benefits or education. Of all my Top 10 lists, this is the strongest #1 ever. This is one big regret that will take a long time to get over…

See you next week as we continue to bring the Sweden portion of this blog to a close, but don't think that, just because I happen to be leaving Sweden, this blog will be ending. Oh no, we've only just begun, everyone. We've only just begun....

The Stockholm Archipelago and the Swedish Love of Water

2008-09-29T11:47:00.000-07:00

I admit this timing is bad.

It’s almost cruel to write a blog for a readership that is partially Swedish that talks about the wonder of water and the sweetness of sailing when the days are darkening and any remembrance of summertime smiles are overcome by the coming winter….and oh, it is coming. Trust me, winter is on the way….or so the Swedish mentality is always convinced.

Yet to write a blog about Sweden and, even though there have been officially 100 (!!!) posts as soon as I click “Publish Post” on this one, to not have anything about the Archipelago (Swedish: Skärgård) and the Swedish love for anything water is to miss an important element of life in this part of the world. And since this blog about Sweden is coming to an all-too-quick conclusion (more about that in the coming couple weeks), I have to get it in.

Bear with me, everyone. Perhaps you can just save this entry until next May…

The perception about Sweden in the rest of the world is the typical “cold, dark, polar bears in the streets” belief, so how could anyone enjoy the water or sailing in that kind of climate….? Well, no one does during the 10 months of winter.

However, when the sun comes out and shares it’s magnificence on an expectant Swedish populace, the only place to be is the lake, canal, river or sea nearest you. Swedes love the water, love to be by the water, love to swim, bathe, wade, float and sail in the water. It seems that nearly everyone has some sort of access to a boat or canoe or something water-oriented. Sailing and maritime culture dominate a Swedish summer. Swedes are known as some of the best travelers in the world, but no one in their right mind leaves Sweden during summer – just head to the röd sommar stuga and be by the water. A Swede couldn’t ask for a better “world’s longest vacation” than that….

There's a reason so many emigrant Swedes made Minnesota, "land of 10,000 lakes," home.

Those frequent Swedish trips to Thailand and the Canary Islands are saved for winter, of course, so one of the many popular places Swedes love to spend their summer is in the Stockholm Archipelago. This collection of 24,000 islands – I’ll say that again: Twenty-four thousand islands – is found about a 3 – hour boat ride outside of Stockholm, welcomes you to the Baltic Sea and looks like broken glass on a good map. One can just imagine the maritime paradise of these islands made of rock and left over from the Ice Age. Some islands are just big enough to step on and others have hotels on them. Swedish delight is not some fancy pastry, but a Swede in the summer finding his own private part of the Archipelago.

One might say that everyone worldwide appreciates water, so why is the Swedish enjoyment any different. To that I will simply say that while most people in the world do indeed enjoy the interplay of sun and water, most people in the world have also never seen snow. Actually, I recently read that 3/4ths of people in the world have never seen snow.

Enough said.

Long live the anticipation for, enjoyment during and memory of the Swedish summer and the Swedes’ beloved world of water.

See you in the Archipelago.

Tallinn, Estonia....via the Baltic Sea

2008-09-22T11:01:00.001-07:00

In what will probably turn out to be the last of many memorable trips I have taken during my 2-plus years in Sweden, this past weekend I ventured across the Baltic Sea on a cruise ship to Tallinn, the capital of Estonia and one of the best preserved medieval era cities in all of Europe.

Along with the other former Soviet Baltic states of Latvia (Riga) and Lithuania (Vilnius), Estonia is also trying to establish its own identity and break free of their recent Soviet past. While Poland, Hungary and the Czech Republic have made the quickest strides West, the Baltic countries are smaller and not as geographically-advantaged as their former Eastern Bloc comrades and have therefore, had a harder time gaining their independent identity.

Additionally, with a population make-up of many different types of ethnicities and ancestry, Estonians will probably always look multiple directions for their heritage. Consider Estonia part Russian, part Northern Europe, part Central Europe and add a small sprinkling of Western Europe. There you have a country full of intrigue for the traveler coming over from Sweden, down from Finland or up from Central Europe.

As an American, I’m a sucker for a good medieval city. Cesky Krumlov (Czech Republic) and Brugges (Belgium) come to mind and Tallinn is right up there with them, except that Tallinn's old town is still part of the capital city of its respective country. The old city towers with their burnt red, cone-shaped tops as well as four different, high-steepled churches make up old city Tallinn’s charm from afar and good food, drink, handicrafts and creative capitalism attempts (along with all the normal historic and quintessential charm of an old European city) represent Estonia well from up close.

If traveling through Scandinavia, consider making the two-night and one day journey via the Tallink ferry from Stockholm (or from Helsinki for a four-hour ride). The cruise ship atmosphere and the reward of a still-undiscovered European old town are well worth the reasonable fare.

Here’s to Estonia and the other Baltic countries and their journey to continued identity independence and Western recognition.

Pictures above:

1. Estonia iconic images are of the cone-shaped tower tops in the old city.

2. A pleasant and affordable ferry ride with cruise ship amenities provides a fun alternative mode of travel to Tallinn from Stockholm.

3. Tallinn’s Old Town Square with Old Town Hall, the center of attention all seasons of the year.

4. Just another cobbled European lane for this American who continues to romanticize these types of cities….

5. A fun way to get around Old Town Estonia.

Gender Equality in Sweden

2008-09-15T11:14:00.000-07:00

The "Battle of the Sexes," Swedish style.

When the world thinks about Sweden, one of the first things that comes to mind is the socially and politically progressive policies, laws and general attitudes. Wrapped within this is the perception, and perhaps the reality, that Sweden is a world leader when it comes to equalizing the genders.

Let’s take a closer look, based on one foreigner’s observations and a bit of informal research….

*One of the first things foreigners notice when walking around Sweden is the number of men pushing strollers.

*Married or not, your tax form is exactly the same and you will file individually (Swedes would be interested to know that a couple filing their tax forms together in the U.S. receive certain benefits).

*The term (and, I assume, the position) “Ombudsman” was first coined in Sweden…..

*All foreign men learn early and often not to open that door, pay for that meal or make any assumption on a date or in any social circumstance that she cannot take care of herself…

*When a couple has maternity/paternity leave, he almost always goes back to work sooner, because he almost always has the higher paying job (among other reasons).

*Inevitably, CEOs, Board members, high ranking officials and other positions of power are heavily male-dominated in Sweden.

*There is no expectation or assumption that, when a Swedish couple gets married, they will take his last name. Sometimes it is her last name that is taken or even an entirely new last name is made up.

Sweden has a cultural head-start in gender equality because of the high social value placed on self-sufficiency. A woman is expected to provide for herself and if a man so chooses to help out in the typical family model, well then, great, but….

While you are hard pressed to find any laws or social policies that are not gender equal or neutral, it doesn’t take too long to find social attitudes, usually unconscious or unspoken, that betray a certain bias toward the one in the majority or with the power, in this case, the men. "Old Boys Clubs" are still alive and well in Sweden, perhaps even more than other countries (even though those Old Boys are arguably more conscious of and educated about their own natural prejudices than their peers in other countries and societies).

My conclusion upon observation from the outside is that Sweden’s population is indeed very sensitive to gender equality and expects a general attitude of self-sufficiency and equality among the sexes. Yet as with most societies, certain unconscious and subtle forms of discrimination are easy to find.

Not surprisingly, Sweden, while ahead of most if not all other countries in the quest for gender equality, still has a ways to go, something most Swedish women would probably tend to agree with, but you might have to really probe her in your questioning to get past the initial national pride of being a "world leader" in this area...

Why It Is So Cool To Live In Linköping - Part 4: Åbacka Cafe

2008-09-07T10:20:00.000-07:00

In our occasional series virtually touring Linköping, and choosing a few of the many reasons why it is just so cool to live here, we’ve discovered one colossal cathedral, an oh-so-Swedish 19^th century-style restaurant, a “jätte roligt” woodcarver’s shop in Linköping’s Old Town and now we arrive to the premiere location to “fika” in all of Linköping….

Åbacka Café.

Åbacka Café, though opening only in 1998, sure seems like it was opened in 1898 or even 1798. This fika fare delight found just across the river from Linköping Centrum captures all-too many aspects of Swedish life in one quaint, you guessed it, röd små stuga (little red house). Some examples of quintessential Sweden uncovered in this quaint riverside hideaway:

If you don’t know where it is, you might just miss it because it is so unassuming.

The humble exterior masks the tasty treats and friendly service found just inside.

Coffee, buns, pastries all around and, best of all, waffles. That’s right, waffles. Did I get your attention, America?

The hours are a bit challenging – you need them more than they need you.

Though open and accessible year-round, Åbacka Café is best enjoyed in the summer time.

Outdoor seating in summer or indoors during winter, after a few moments at Åbacka Café, you are convinced your Mom would love this place….

For those here in Linköping, just cross the Drottningatan bridge and turn right. Hours are Saturday and Sunday, 10 – 17 in the off-season and daily 10 - 17 in the summer.

Die, Wasp, Die!

2008-09-01T11:19:00.000-07:00

Despite a splendid summer’s day to start September in Sweden, Swedes know that, in the end, the calendar has the final say.

It doesn’t take long to find the silver lining to a fleeting Swedish summer. As the sun departs, so does something else synonymous with a Swedish summer, the only element of a Swedish summer no one celebrates or fondly remembers come December.

You can run, but you can’t hide.

It ruins picnics.
It alters Kubb matches.
It makes berry-picking a danger-filled activity.
It can make a Midsummer celebration a little less fertile.
It turns peace-loving Swedes into militant barbarians....

Swedes, and temporary Swedes, develop a sixth sense of unidentified flying objects in the summer time.

If there was a vote to increase taxes in order to eliminate this, it would be the first nationwide vote to be unanimously in favor.

What would hospital emergency rooms do in the summer time if not for this?

Unlike their European neighbors to the extreme south, no Swede would ever name a beloved transportation vehicle after this evil creature (“vespa”).

They move slowly, which is clearly divine license to kill.

No animal rights groups in Sweden would ever defend it.

I’ve heard that without these, and their similar species worldwide, the earth’s ecosystem would fail to the point of extinction of all natural life. If given the opportunity, Swedes would gladly take their chances.

Good-bye, precious summer. Good riddance, diabolical wasp.

In the Swedish Board Room and Working World

2008-08-25T13:47:00.001-07:00

As August wanes and the shadows become noticeably longer and that breeze just isn’t quite as warm as it was a couple weeks ago, it becomes apparent that summer is leaving us way up here in the north. Even in Sweden, school has started, non-summer cities such as Linköping are startlingly full of people once again and business is in full swing.

For the past couple years, the readership of Linköpinglivin’ has been evolving. What started out as solely family and friends quickly became a whole lotta native Swedes. Then came foreigners visiting Sweden who were searching for something else and accidentally stumbled upon this peculiar, but informative, observation of Sweden and the Swedes in English. For any English speaker coming to Sweden to do work, this blog (or so I have been told) comes up repeatedly in all sorts of contexts (from directions to cafés to baby strollers and more).

I’ve recently started to consider particularly useful topics for the foreigner (be they American or not) to be aware of should their professional or personal life bring them to Sweden. This week’s topic will probably not be of much use or interest for a Swede, could perhaps provide some small interest to the American who is interested in business and company culture, but will be crucial for the foreigner coming to work in Sweden and wanting to understand the subtly different Swedish work world.

As with most considerations of culture and differences when examining Sweden, one must first start with the all-important Swedish Jante Law of “thou shall not consider thyself better than others.” Swedish equality and desire for participation and consensus is the key to understanding the Swedish work world. Bosses are not better than their subordinates and well-educated people are not paid nearly as much as their peers in other countries in comparison with less-educated employees. Decisions are made not necessarily by an authority at the top of a hierarchy, but by a group that only goes forward when consensus has been reached. Meetings are vital. Facilitating, not deciding, is often the role of the Swedish manager or CEO. There is still accountability and responsibility, of course, but this is not nearly as evident in the day-to-day behavior of employees.

Communication between colleagues is also a bit different due to the cultural expectation of non-confrontational communication. Communication is simply more courteous and softer, sometimes even sacrificing clarity amongst colleagues or within companies. All individuals in the company are accessible for everyone else – once again, no one is better or off limits to anyone else due to Jante’s famous law. Equality and personal pride are highly valued in all circumstances. In this way, communication and overall business in Sweden is much more like Japan than it is a European or American business environment. Teamwork, not individual achievement, is the most valued element of a Swedish work environment.

The Swedish office is noticeably more informal than the American or British counterpart. Jeans or slacks, along with an open collar and rarely a tie, is the norm. One should not stand out too much by dressing up or down (Jante Law, again), as opposed to the American rule of “you should dress for the next job you want.” Though in this age of globalization, one could make the argument that attire expectations are now guided more by industry than country, such as the informal and almost-juvenile dress expected at high-tech companies with young geniuses creating software for the next century.

A few other areas or interesting tidbits about the Swedish business/work world:

*With few exceptions, an 8 or 9 – 17:00 work day is expected throughout all industries in Sweden. If you work too much or not enough, you will stand out from your colleagues. If you haven't noticed yet, this is not a good thing in Sweden…

*Despite their nationwide pride in equality, the Swedish woman often has just as hard a time climbing the corporate ladder as her counterparts in other countries. There are still many “old boys clubs” throughout Sweden connected to University days, sailing clubs and other long-held, male-oriented fraternities.

*Unions are strong throughout Europe, but none more so than Sweden. It is virtually impossible to terminate the employment of a Swedish worker, unless there is some blatant breach of trust. This may sound good for the workers, but there are unfortunate consequences such as pushing employees out in other, arguably more emotionally painful ways, as well as lots of short-term contracts without company commitments to their workers. One realizes that there are two sides to every coin with having this much power to the people, in this case the work people.

*Emails in Sweden will often go without a response if the recipient is not in agreement or is uncomfortable with the topic of exchange. Rather than confront a difficult situation and cause a losing of face of one party or another, the lack of a response will serve as the clearest form of non-confrontational disagreement, which is understandably misunderstood by (and aggravating for) foreigners.

Okay, enough of a boring blog entry. If you have read this far, you must be coming to Sweden to take a job...congratulations.

Check back next week for some more fun from Linköping.

(Pictures above are of the most famous companies in Sweden, and one close to my heart that is slowly getting there….)

Göteborg (and the introduction of video on Linköpinglivin')

2008-08-18T12:28:00.000-07:00

You probably know by now that advanced technological prowess is not my strength in cyberspace, but even I had to enter the world of video blogging at some point. Come take a ride on Linköpinglivin' for the first time as we "do" Göteborg!

Also known as Gothenburg.

Americans have never heard of Gothenburg, much less Göteborg (pronounced “Yerte-bori”). Sweden’s second city, located on the west coast, and the leading shipping port in all of Scandinavia is a virtual unknown to my fellow countrymen and women. I should know. I had never heard of Gothenburg until first coming to Sweden.

We Americans generally know that Stockholm is in Sweden. We might know that Oslo is in Norway, but the only thing we know about Oslo might be the Peace Accords. We love to say "Copenhagen," but don’t know whether it’s Danish or Dutch, but it doesn’t really matter because we don’t really know the difference between the two, anyway. Finally, Helsinki is an unforgettable English word and most know it’s connected to Finland, but many aren’t sure which is the country and which is the capital!

Without further ado, this weekend I finally made the excursion to Göteborg. If Stockholm is the distinguished, responsible, refined, “first-born,” city of Sweden, then Göteborg is the laid-back, enthusiastic, energetic and fun, younger sibling of Sweden’s cities. Göteborg, at least on a summer weekend like we just had, is a playground.

In just over 29 hours in Göteborg, some friends and I walked through a botanical garden and found meat-eating (and therefore, one’s imagination can declare “man”-eating) plants, strolled the “Champs Elysées” of Sweden on the Avenyn, ducked under low-hanging bridges during otherwise peaceful canal rides, were soaked, thrashed and dropped 10 stories on roller-coasters at Sweden's most beloved amusement park, discovered the wonderful world of nature and science at yet another impressively planned, presented and educationally-oriented Swedish museum and even managed to make it outta town before the skies opened up and reminded us that Sweden’s summer is quickly fleeting….

I almost never went to Gothenburg because I knew I would regret not going more often…Sure enough, that has happened.

For you Swedes familiar with Göteborg, here are some thoughts and observations on various elements of this enjoyable city:

Botaniska Trädgården: A great stroll for a family or couple – and a perfect leisure time activity in between more adventurous parts of this playground. Special bonus points for the Botaniska Trädgården when I even saw drinking fountains, some of the first I've seen in Sweden!

Liseberg: I thought Swedes only got excited about Melodifestivalen and Zlatan, but Liseberg is pure Swedish childlike enthusiasm. A must on any trip to Göteborg, as you well know.

Universeum: Fun for kids, fascinating for adults, so leave yourself at least three hours and don’t miss the interactive exhibits!

Paddan Canal Tours: Watch your head. That tour guide is not kidding! Hilarious….

Avenyn: Probably better at dusk and evening – not much during the day, especially if you consider shopping poisonous to a tourist weekend, as I do.

And don’t forget that splendid Göteborg Pass because if you ever have a chance to save money in Sweden, you must do it!

Pictures above:

1. The harbor and the maritime environment is the heart of Gothenburg's past and present.

2 - 4. The well known, albeit touristy, Paddan Canal Boat Rides are informational and, for a country known for all things-safety, dangerous! Watch your head, as we did....!

5. Keep the mice and small children away from this plant, known to digest meat and found in the greenhouse of the Botaniska Trädgården, along with certain worldwide jungles and rain forests.

Summer Olympics According to the Swedes

2008-08-11T11:46:00.000-07:00

Att dunka – “to dunk” in Swedish.

This verb was used early and often in yesterday’s U.S vs. China men’s basketball opener watched by an estimated 1 billion people worldwide. Normally a little uncomfortable with American dominance (this team has had to start over and "re-learn" to play basketball like a team in order to win gold on a world-level, which hasn’t happened since 2000), I now find it fun to actually root for the U.S. basketball team again. If they do win gold, they will have earned it. But this is a blog about Sweden, not the U.S.

Let’s make one thing clear in the beginning. Given the choice between the Summer and Winter Olympics, most Swedes will choose Winter. The reasons are obvious and recent national success only increases this Olympic selection.

However, this is Sweden. And wherever in the world the blue and yellow is being represented, the country is well-aware and usually tuned in. With not one, but two public (and, therefore, commercial-free) television channels showing almost round-the-clock coverage from "Peking," if a Swede doesn’t know every last thing there is to know about these Beijing Olympics, it’s their own fault.

After initially whining that I couldn’t get my American Olympic coverage over the internet, and was “forced” to watch the Olympics from a Swedish perspective, I have enjoyed the experience of watching these beloved (to an American) games from another perspective. Here are some observations so far:

*Since we’re only seven hours behind China, most of the coverage is “direkt” (also known as “live”). Always fun to be watching something as it happens and not avoiding seeing scores and results until NBC finally gets to show it 10 hours later….

*American Olympic coverage is often criticized for being overly focused on only American athletes. Sweden is guilty of this as well and I am sure every country is “overly focused” on their own athletes – and hey, for non-Americans reading this, it’s good for you to know that at least some people in the U.S. care about what athletes from other countries are doing!

*But give the Swedes credit, their excitement around and coverage of the American men’s basketball team, Michael Phelps’ quest and other storylines, both American and others, has been a pleasure to watch. And the minor sports, the ones you only hear about during the Olympics no matter what country you’re from, get just as much coverage as anything.

*Handball looks like it would be really, really fun!

*If there is a darling of these Olympics for the Swedes, it is 14 year-old Sarah Sjöström. For those dabbling in the Swedish language, yes, her name is Sarah “Lake-Stream.” You guessed it. She’s a swimmer….I love Sweden.

*As an American, I am embarrassed by our focus on the “medal count.” Does it really matter who gets the most medals? And if it does, then shouldn’t it be a reflection of the population of the country? Shouldn’t the U.S. be doing a lot better than we're doing since we have 300 million to choose from? And shouldn’t China be disqualified from the next Olympics if they don’t get at least 1/7th of all the medals since they have 1/7th of the people in the world? And shouldn’t winning the decathlon count as 10 medals? The medal count is the height of national self-absorption and the opposite of what the Olympics are all about. Go Palau!

*Speaking of the Olympic spirit, did anyone see the medal podium embrace of the two female athletes – one from Russia and the other from Georgia? That’s what the Olympics ARE all about.

*Watch for Swedes Stefan Holm (high jump), Susanna Kallur (hurdles), Carolina Klüft– the most well known of Swedish Summer Olympic athletes since her heptathlon gold in Athens (triple and long jump) and Stefan Nystrand and Therese Alshammar (swimming).

*Countries like Sweden will only finish the games with 7 – 10 medals total, but those winners are celebrated like no other. Emma Johansson, the surprise silver-medalist in a cycling event yesterday, became a household name overnight. There’s some more Olympic spirit brought to you by the blue and yellow, a silver is "good as gold."

Pictures above:

1. Beijing Olympics. I was first introduced to the Summer Olympics when they were almost literally in my backyard in 1984 - Los Angeles. What a great summer that was!

2. Emma Johansson wins Sweden's first medal of the games.

3. Sarah "Lake-Stream" is a 14 year-old Swedish swimmer.

4. "Att Dunka" - Kobe Bryant

5. Georgian (on left) and Russian medalists embrace on the medal podium even as their countries were beginning a war.

The Abbreviated Summer (even in Sweden)

2008-08-03T10:48:00.000-07:00

It’s August (and, yes, a now-annual re-formatting exercise. Isn't it better than the dark background and light lettering - kinda like the move from MySpace to Facebook, don't you think?).

Anyone who has a job that relates to University students knows that August means “Your summer is over. Ready or not, here they come!” Though I live and work in Sweden, a place known for an endless summer holiday, my summer is essentially over (and the recent rain in Linköping only serves as a cruel reminder of the inevitable).

However, if summer is concluding, it means that Linköpinglivin’ is back up and running, hopefully better than ever as I begin to give some conclusion and closure to my cherished Swedish experience. My current plan is to terminate my work here in November/December to be home in time for an American-style Lucia and Christmas (I gotcha covered, Mom). You will hear all about my mixed emotions regarding this as the next few months unfold, but for now, know that I will be valuing every moment of my fleeting time in a country I will always remember fondly (and be visiting often - that’s a promise).

Linköpinglivin’ is currently receiving approximately 500 hits per week from what I think is about 300 – 400 monthly readers, but since the last entry in late June, it has received over 2,300 hits. Sharing my journey continues to be one of the most surprising and rewarding elements of my time abroad. Thanks for continuing to meet me in cyberspace, Swedish-style.

There’s still plenty of Sweden life to be discovered and uncovered in the coming months. Undoubtedly a few fun facts and top 10 lists will grace this blog yet again, as well as a couple more reasons why Linköping remains one of the coolest places to live in all the world!

For now though, a few pictures from my summer, which included stops in London, Seattle, Santa Barbara and the hometown of La Canada near Los Angeles and was highlighted by the visit of what will probably be my last visitors to Sweden: Heather Doud, Jennifer Ratcliff and Rachel Owen. While their journey was long and their visit too short, it was indeed as memorable as predicted from Stockholm to Linköping. Thanks for the visit to the land of the Vikings, ladies. See you in December!

(And as the Summer Olympics get started before the next Linköpinglivin’ entry, I expect all of you Americans following this blog to keep a special eye out for the blue and yellow Swedish representation. Heja Sverige!)

Pictures above:

1. Left-to-Right: Rachel, Jenn and Heather strike the Viking pose in Stockholm.

2. Overlooking Stadshuset on a classic summer’s day in Stockholm.

3. With friends at Dodger Stadium – Los Angeles, California.

4. Big Ben says “hello” rising above the English flowers in full bloom.

"Super-Size Me" - Swedish Style

2008-06-22T10:48:00.000-07:00

There’s an ice cream shop here in Sweden.

In fact, there are many ice cream shops in Sweden as Swedes are known for being some of the top consumers of ice cream in the world. However, there’s no ice cream shop quite like Söderköping’s Smultronstället just east of Linköping located right on the Göta Canal.

When you say “Söderköping” to any Swedes south of Stockholm, their eyes light up, an excited smile comes across their face and they ask you about the “glass” (Swedish for “ice cream").

Smultronstället is one of few places in Sweden where Swedish cultural moderation is thrown out the window in the face of pure, unhindered, unlimited, extra-large indulgence. “Super-size me,” Swedish style.

Smultronstället takes the Swedish cultural law of “lagom - not too much and not too little, just right” and laughs at it.

The ice cream servings, toppings, decorations, environment and indeed festival at Smultronstället is larger than any I’ve ever seen anywhere, including my home country, which is known for doing nothing, especially ice cream, in moderation.

Speaking of the USA, Smultronstället has close to 30 different themed ice cream presentations ranging from places to holidays to happy occasions of all kinds. All presentations reflect something of that theme, of course. What is the USA theme, you ask? Five scoops of mouth-watering ice cream, topped off with a sugar donut – and one more scoop on top of the donut, just to make sure. Add some apple pie filling in the middle, a flashing guitar icon, an American flag and there you have the USA-themed Smultronstället ice cream concoction named “Rock ‘n Roll.”

Apparently, donuts are as synonymous with Americans as peanut butter...

Let it be known that this is the very first time I have EVER had donuts and ice cream in the same dessert.

Let it be known that I only ordered this life-shortening creation in order to take a picture of it – with all of you in mind, obviously.

And finally, let it be known that the next time I go to Smultronstället, I’ll be ordering the “Rock ‘n Roll” again, because I had no idea how good donuts and ice cream taste together….

Speaking of unhindered indulgences of the American kind, I’m off to the USA this week, for the first time since October, and, along with all the Swedes, will be taking the month of July off and away (from the blogsophere), relaxing and vacationing, enjoying and embracing all that summer has to offer.

Thank you for regularly reading Linköpinglivin’ and being my cyber-companions on this continually enjoyable and memorable Swedish excursion. I’ll be back in August to give it a few more months in Linköping and, of course, on Linköpinglivin’.

Trevlig Sommar och vi ses snart.

Euro 2008

2008-06-15T23:31:00.001-07:00

In the past year on Linköpinglivin’, you’ve heard about the American college basketball tournament, read about not one, but two Super Bowls, been introduced to baseball and had “soccer” directly and indirectly criticized, so I think it is about time to, well, acknowledge some of the finer points and qualities to “the beautiful game.”

As surprising as this might be to Europeans who, whether they want it or not, are surrounded by and completely engulfed in football fever right now, most Americans have no idea there is a soccer tournament almost as important as the World Cup (which even most Americans are very familiar with) taking place in Austria and Switzerland right now.

Quick insight for the Americans: The Union of the European Football Associations (UEFA) holds a European-wide soccer tournament every four years, coinciding in the off years with the World Cup (which was last played in 2006). After qualifying, 16 teams/countries are grouped in sets of four and play a tournament which lasts about three weeks and started on June 7. The host country rotates every four years. Austria and Switzerland teamed up this year to host.

It’s impossible to be breathing anywhere in Europe and not know about the Euro tournament. So, as with most things that I can define as uniquely European or Swedish experiences, I have decided to embrace it and follow it and have a good time with it and have, so far, been rewarded with some very interesting and at times, dare I even say, “exciting” football.

Sweden won their first game, lost a heartbreaker in the second, but still look promising to advance to the next round of 8 teams. Other favorites so far look like Portugal, Croatia and Spain, but no one has been as impressive as the Dutch who, with their precision passing, ball control and bright orange uniforms, have simply embarrassed both Italy and France, who just happened to be the finalists in the most recent World Cup.

I’ll just say that anyone who has an appreciation for the art and science of sports and athletics can find it in them to be mesmerized by soccer. As I’ve said before, we Americans just don’t really give it a chance, except every four years as long as we’re alive in the World Cup. A well-orchestrated goal really is a beautiful thing. But, I still don’t like the fake injuries, acting and virtual crying that takes place (some teams more than others, I do acknowledge) and seems to be an accepted part of the game.

However, the excitement and interest for me lies in the overall spectacle itself. I appreciate the events or moments that bring the whole continent of Europe, with all its differences and past conflicts, together under one banner. While the EU is a fascinating and challenging experiment in this with the things that really matter, events like Euro and even the Eurovision Song Contest (so sorry to put those two things in the same sentence, soccer fans) do this on a temporary basis and it’s very rewarding to watch for an outsider.

Meanwhile in the United States, one of the most historic and celebrated rivalries in all of American sports is happening again in the NBA Finals between the beloved Los Angeles Lakers and the hated Boston Celtics. Since it’s played from 3:00 – 5:30 in the morning Sweden time, soccer is astonishingly taking up more of my thoughts than this cherished rivalry. More surprising words have perhaps never been blogged on Linköpinglivin’. I’ve been here too long….

It remains to be seen just how much soccer stays with me upon my return to the U.S., but for now I have just one thing to say: “Heja Sverige!”

Pictures above:

1. Euro 2008 approaches the second round this week. The final will be held in Vienna on June 28.

2. Linköping's main square brings out all the fans, despite the chilly temperatures, to watch the beloved home team's victory over Greece.

3. Anything blue or yellow will due, and a flag is especially welcomed.

4. Friends Emelie and Lisa show their true colors.

5. Though I'm a long way from home, Go Lakers.

Top 10 Things I Love To Say To Europeans

2008-06-09T11:35:00.000-07:00

10. “?Habla ingles?” “Parle vous anglais?” “Sprechen sie englisch?” “Förlåt, på engelska, tack” and my favorite, ”Could you please say that again without your British accent?”

9. “I have no idea how much I weigh, how tall I am or how far it is to the next town…”

8. “How much did you say the tax was?!!!”

7. “Could I have some peanut butter with that?”

6. “Soccer. The only sport in the world where crying is both strategic and encouraged.”

5. To the question of whether or not every American owns a gun, “Yes, one for each hand.”

4. Upon seeing the size of a personal pizza in Sweden, “Wow, I’ll never be able to finish that and I’m an American!”

3. Upon seeing anyone holding Coca-Cola, McDonald’s, Subway or all three:”Thank you for trying to help that poor American dollar.”

2. “Yes, start in New York, but remember that the west coast is the best coast!”

And the number one thing I love to say to Europeans:
1. “I’m so glad that Obama has finally been selected because now the election campaigning can BEGIN!”

And a special bonus quote for all you Swedes:
“I love living in a small town like Linköping...”

Pictures above from a perfect summer day in Sweden (as the weather continues to be the warmest I have ever felt here):

1. On the eastern coast just north of Västervik.
2. Classic Swedish coastline full of “röda små stugor.”
3. Flags of the Göta Canal at Söderköping, which means…
4. Smulltronstället ice cream. Ah, Svensk sommar!
5. A recent taco dinner obviously hosted by an American – can you see why?

Everything You Need to Know About Golf (& Mini-Golf) in Sweden

2008-06-01T10:41:00.000-07:00

It was warmer than a summer’s day in Sweden this entire weekend and, along with the grilling, the sun-bathing, the dark-less nights of this time of year and the Euro-shorts, new and interesting tidbits about Swedish life, even after almost two years here for me, reveal themselves.

So here’s virtually everything you need to know about golf and mini-golf in Sweden.

Traditional golf:

*Yes, it is played in Sweden. Just save your wisecracks about playing golf in the snow.

*Not only is it played in Sweden, but you must pass a test and prove your worth to play on Sweden’s courses. There is no room for lousy golfters, “hackers” as we would say in the U.S. In order to get your “green card,” you need the approval of a golf professional at one of the courses. I have a lot of friends in the U.S. who would really love to keep “hackers” like myself off of the courses there….

*Since that’s about all I know about traditional golf in Sweden or anywhere, we’ll switch to mini-golf, one of Sweden’s favorite summer pastimes.

Mini-Golf:

*First, every country has their own name for this and in Sweden, we call it "mini-golf," not "miniature golf" or "putt-putt."

*Sweden was one of the first countries to develop mini-golf along with the U.S., Britain and Germany back in the early 1900s.

*Predictably, Sweden formed the very first mini-golf “federation” 30 years before any other country had a mini-golf federation – yes, apparently there are mini-golf federations worldwide….who knew?

*While American mini-golf courses compete with designs ranging from waterfalls to windmills to neon signs to mazes to anything else that will entertain a family of four or a birthday party of 14, Swedish mini-golf courses are relatively simple collections of 2 x 4s that require you to hit the ball perfectly, with no forgiveness for even small mis-hits.

*I would say I am a better-than-average mini-golfer and there is a course on the little island of Öland that I scored a 90 on last summer. A 90! Mini-Golf! Two holes required 10 shots (even though you are supposed to ”pick-up” after six in Sweden, it’s MINI-GOLF for goodness sakes. I’m NOT picking up until my ball is in the hole!).

*Swedish rules for mini-golf are taken very, very seriously. There is no going out-of-turn, no going before the person in front of you is completely finished with the hole, no moving the ball anywhere it’s not supposed to be moved. This is mini-golf. This is Sweden. You will play by the rules and like it.

*Mini-golf is one more way that the beloved Swedish summer is celebrated. I once again affirm how much I love the seasons around here. And when the warm summer weekends arrive, even a little early and a little warmer than normal, there’s just no place like it. Bring on summer.

(Pictures above from treacherous mini-golf holes from Öland to Linköping – You’ve been warned.)

3 Meals, 3 Countries, 1 Day

2008-05-26T12:14:00.000-07:00

And...no plane flights.

Only in Europe.

This past week I had a conference in Luxembourg, a fine place which is often overlooked on the tourist map, but will be the subject of a future Linköpinglivin' blog coming soon.

When the Wednesday - Friday conference ended, I decided to spend some time in the English countryside across the channel from Belgium, which is just north of Luxembourg. A couple train rides later, I was in London, but not before waking up to breakfast in Luxembourg, a train ride to, lunch in and some sightseeing around Brussels and finally a Eurostar "Chunnel" express train under the English Channel, my first experience of this heralded transportation triumph. Dinner in London then completed my accidental accomplishment.

3 meals, 3 countries, 1 day.

And without any plane rides.

Only in Europe.

I love this place.

Okay, in looking at a map, one could perhaps pull this feat off in Central America or Southeast Asia, but certainly not North America.

3 meals, 3 countries, 1 day.

Good times.

Pictures above:

1. What some consider the grandest square in all of Europe, Brussels' Le Grand Place is seen here with schoolchildren complementing the impressive views.

2. Belgium's beer is known to be the finest in Europe (along with the Czech Republic's).

3. With my friend Andrew who lives in Luxembourg. The valley below makes Luxembourg's vistas striking, leaving Luxembourg greatly underestimated by most tourists.

4. A quick weekend in the English countryside of course included a friendly greeting from the sheep.

5. Brussels' city icon is a little boy called, well, Mannekin Pis. Legend has it that the city was once burning in a fire and one courageous youngster did everything he possibly could to put the fire out. London's Big Ben, Paris' Eiffel, Rome's Colosseum and Brussels' Mannekin Pis (Dutch for "little man pee").

Glorified Failure: The Vasa Museum

2008-05-18T10:43:00.000-07:00

For a country known worldwide for high-quality, extraordinarily efficient products and standards, the story of the 17th century Vasa warship is hard to believe.

Back in the Swedish dynastic era of the 1600s, and in the middle of the wars between Catholics and Protestants, the naval battles determined all power, especially for the countries in and around the Baltic Sea. It was then that Swedish King Gustavus Adolphus commissioned (or commanded) a premiere warship. Two years later, with much fanfare and celebration, the Vasa set sail for the Baltic with over 400 crew on her maiden voyage.

Astonishingly, after a couple light wind gusts, the slight breeze of Stockholm Harbor proved to be too much for this newly-built and latest example of Swedish quality and, just 20 minutes into the inaugural voyage (!), nowhere near outside of Stockholm Harbor, the King’s premiere warship started taking on water and sank, taking down 50 of the 400 crew with her.

Almost as amazing as the sinking of the Vasa itself is the fact that, over time, it’s location in Stockholm Harbor was forgotten. Not until 1956 did a Swedish shipwreck specialist finally find the wreckage and immediately the raising of the Vasa was underway.

The key element to turning this one-time failure into a modern day success was the waters of the Baltic Sea. These less-salty waters have a unique quality to preserve ships over the course of hundreds of years, whereas normal saltier waters of oceans and seas will have eroded the ships over the same period of time. When the Vasa was raised in 1961, it was remarkably intact and resembled the same ship that sailed for all of 20 minutes and sank 333 years earlier.

Today, the oldest and best example of an ancient warship anywhere in the world is found in this incredible museum in Stockholm. The Vasa Museum, with its very impressive organization and exceptionally-informative context and content presentation, tells the compelling story of a failed ship that eventually became one of Europe’s most mesmerizing museums, seen by a now-annual one million awe-struck visitors-per-year. Leave it to the Swedes to turn a miserable failure into a success, after waiting patiently for 333 years.

The last picture above is of Dan and Shena Hinds, previously seen in Salzburg, Austria during Christmas ’07, who came through Stockholm this past weekend on their way home to Seattle. They are the latest of what is becoming a respectable list of people who, let’s face it, have gone a LONG way out of their way to come see me in Sweden.

Thanks, Dan and Shena. Fika forever!

European Shorts

2008-05-12T08:44:00.001-07:00

I just can’t do it.

This past weekend brought temperatures higher than most summer temperatures to southern Sweden and even higher than those in Los Angeles – 23 degrees Celsius/78 Farenheit. We here in Sweden know a good and fleeting thing when we see it, so a summer celebration took place a little early around here, but…

I just can’t do it.

Whether you’re playing volleyball, Frisbee, KUBB or whether you are lakeside, riverside, sailing or napping in the sun, when that first delightful weekend-long reminder of summer hits Sweden, the celebration is on, but...

I just can’t do it.

No one can accuse me of not being open-minded or attempting to adapt to my new culture while living abroad. I’ve eaten herring, suffered through strömming, sat in a sauna (only once), drank more coffee than needed in a lifetime, biked through the snow in winter, paid taxes on goods and services at 17% or higher, “danced” around a fertility pole (okay, I was taking pictures and therefore happily “observing”), reveled around crayfish like it was chocolate, taken holidays I didn’t even know existed and even learned a new language (c’mon, be nice). I’ve made an admirable effort to fit in while in Sweden and Europe, but every man has his limits, his dignity.

I just can’t do it.

I’ll have you know I even tried them on (from the comfort of my own private fitting room, of course). They were admittedly some of the most comfortable clothing I’ve ever worn, but…

I just can’t do it.

If it's needed to have a true experience of living abroad, then I guess I will just always have to settle for almost having a true experience of living abroad.

I just can’t do it.

You can take the man out of America, but you can’t take America out of the man. The knees are as far as I go. Though climate change is real, I simply refuse to prepare for the oncoming flood.

I just can’t do it.

I have not and will not wear "European" shorts.

When "Paris in the Spring" is Closed and Wet

2008-05-05T13:39:00.000-07:00

After almost two years of living abroad, I like to think I’m a bit of a savvy traveler. Finding ways to avoid crowds of tourists and smoothly work my way around a city or region has become it’s own enjoyable challenge. To creatively re-discover a place is one of the rewards of travel. This was my third time back to Paris (and always visiting people, mind you!).

So when my “Valborg” weekend in Paris faced a bank holiday where almost everything was closed, I thought it would be a good reason to stroll and picnic like the Parisians. Then it started raining and I knew a blog entry was blooming…

So provided you have enough foresight to pack an umbrella for "Paris in the spring," here are a few things to do when it’s raining and everything but the Louvre is closed (and if you’re ever in Paris on rainy holiday weekend when the only museum open in the whole city is the Louvre, I trust that you already know not to go anywhere near it!):

Cimetière du Père-Lachaise: Why visit a cemetery when you’re in the “City of Light” (or “Love,” as the case may be)? Because this isn’t just any cemetery. One Parisian friend of mine called it “the most beautiful park in Paris, “ which is saying a lot. Quite simply, I’ve never seen anything quite like it. The list of those laid to rest in this location reads like a history of France, plus multiple non-French who made a contribution. Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison and beloved French singer Edith Piaf are the most visited memorial spots, but composer Chopin, poet Balzac, artists Gericault, Ingres, Delacroix and David and so many more significant contributors to Western culture can be found here. Check out the website and take a virtual tour of what could be the world’s greatest cemetery – yeah, I know it sounds strange, but it’s true: http://www.pere-lachaise.com/

Promenade Plantée: This 4.5 km walk runs through the city and is an old railway route converted into an outdoor garden. Even in the rain, this can be a good walk as you rise above the city, breathe in the fresh air from plants, flowers and trees and take in a still very unknown part of Paris.

Seine River Walk, Eiffel to Notre-Dame: Fortunately, even on a treasured bank holiday, Parisians can’t close three of their most famous sites. Walking along this legendary river from Monsier Eiffel’s tower to the Notre-Dame Cathedral takes about an hour and can be a true Parisian delight. While en route, I successfully found one spot (Pont de la Concorde bridge) where with a 360 degree turn, one can see virtually all of Paris’ most famous sites at once (Eiffel, Les Invalides, the National Assembly, Place de la Concorde, Tuileries Garden, the Louvre, Musée d’Orsay, Notre-Dame, Pont des Arts bridge and, of course, the Seine). Not a bad spot, even in the rain.

Le Marché: Just pick one and enjoy. The outdoor markets, and some indoor ones, throughout Paris are an experience unto themselves. Choosing just the right cheese (of the 400 or more available) with just the right fruit with just the right bread topped by just the right wine is a vintage French experience. Ask for help along the way and have a ball…

Fika in a French Café: Two of the best European traditions at once – you don’t really think the famous cafés of Paris would close just for a little bank holiday, do you?

Pictures above:
1. Just bring an umbrella and Paris is great, even in the rain.

2. Trying to take unfamiliar pictures of the world's most photographed tower, this one through some vegetation, is a fun challenge.

3. The Père-Lachaise cemetery is a never-ending view of impressive tombstones memorializing France's favorites, plus a few more.

4. And when the sun clears, the beauty of French squares like the Place des Vosges is overshadowed by the joy of Parisians (and a few wanna-be Parisians) embracing spring.

5. The Hotel d' Ville is probably my favorite building in Paris, especially at night - it just seems to scream "Vive la France!"

En Hemlig Samtal På Svenska

2008-04-28T13:15:00.000-07:00

Okej, varsågod.

Nyligen har jag skrivit att mitt svenskt språk förbättras varje vecka eller “bättre o bättre, dag för dag.”

Nu måste jag visa er på Linköpinglivin’. Lycka till, Sean.

Jag gillar att skriva på svenska på min blogg eftersom amerikaner kan inte förstå och det ser bra ut - kanske även att har jag lärt ett nytt språk. Jag ser framåt till kommenterarna.

Min hemlig samtal med svenskarna på svenska...

Sen det verkar som mycket mer svenskar än amerikaner tittar på den här bloggen – 75 procent tills mitten av maj åtminstone – det är bra att prata på svenska inom denna inlägg. Den sista gången att skrev jag på svenska var i februari i fjol (Min Pappa Kommer till Linköping). Jag pratade om saker om helgen med min pappa, men inga idéer. Det är lättare att prata om saker, men idéer blir viktigt att förbättras. Inga saker idag, bara idéer.

Min motivation att fortsätta på svenska tyvärr går upp o ner o berod på mitt jobb. Sen förväntar jag att lämna Sverige att börja 2009, ibland det blir svårt att förtsätta på svenska, men jag har många svenska vänner att hjälpa mig och förväntar mig att förbättre. Tack, allihop! Så, förlåt min fel på svenska denna vecka på Linköpinglivin’ och bli trevlig att jag, en typisk amerikansk med andra språk, har lärt någonting!

Fastän har jag gjort flesta fel här redan, det blir lättare att skriva o läsa på svenska än prata o förstå på svenska. Jag tänkte att mitt ordförråd behövde växa för att förbättras på svenska (och javisst, det kan o ska växa), men mitt problem för att förstå svenska är svenskar som pratar så, så fort!

Jag förstår invandrar på svenska utan problem. Vi har bra och komplicera samtal om och om igen. Det känner så kul. Varför? Dom pratar långsamt. I helgen, tittar jag på en svensk film, en riktig kul svensk film, Så Som i Himmelen. Jag rekommendar det, men jag lyssnade på svenskt språk och tittade på svensk text samtidigt och förstår jag allt - inget problem.

Om jag skulle kunna läsa text under varje samtal på svenska, min svensk blir superbra! Kanon!

Fortforande tills då, ska jag fortsätta att träna på svenska och prata med svenskar och säger mitt favorit ord, “Igen och långsamt, tack.”

Tack för ditt tålamod denna vecka o tack för din hjälp alltid. Trevlig Valborg, men inga brasor för mig....À très bientôt à Paris! Vad roligt!

Au revoir och ha det så bra...

(Bilder från Stockholm i mitten av april. Välkommen vår!)

A Birthday, and a Brother, in Sweden

2008-04-14T11:31:00.000-07:00

Up until this point my younger and shorter brother has merely been entertained by Sweden and the Swedes. For Todd, Sweden has been something to simply browse to every Monday morning for almost two years and then provide some missing information to the always inaccurate and often misguided blog entry from the land a long, long way away, if it even exists at all.

When I suggested he come to Sweden and be held accountable for his comments, he had a plane flight booked just a couple days later. This past weekend, to celebrate my 35th birthday with a Swedish flare, Todd took on Sweden. And, to quote an English saying that those with Viking heritage can be proud of, “He came. He saw. He conquered.”

In a trip that typifies the American vacation time problem, Todd arrived on Thursday night and left on Monday afternoon, from New York to Sweden and back again, to make sure his brother celebrated right. One thing's for sure, I've got a very cool brother.

The pictures provide the highlights of a weekend I’m still recovering from, which included a memorable Swedish-style birthday party complete with smörgastårta, prinsesstårta and an impressive rendition of “Hurra, hurra, hurra, hurra.” Thanks to all of you attendees - my birthday Sweden-style will never be forgotten.

If You Want to Write a Blog...

2008-04-06T09:30:00.000-07:00

Recently Linköpinglivin’ received some exciting news.

After the March reader poll, it was clear that a whopping 70% of all readers are Swedish. I hope it has been apparent just how much I have enjoyed that percentage of readers as the Swedes themselves have made such an irreplaceable contribution to Linköpinglivin’. However, that percentage may change in mid-May…

Back in January, at the recommendation of a good friend of my mother, I submitted Linköpinglivin’ for a travel blog search in one of the most widely read American travel magazines, Budget Travel. A month later they emailed me to wish me congratulations as Linköpinglivin’ will be one of 15 (out of “hundreds” submitted) travel blogs featured in an upcoming article titled “Best Bloggers,” which will give recommendations and advice for other would-be travel bloggers about what to consider and be aware of before you start this wild and time-consuming adventure.

Since Linköpinglivin’ was originally intended only to be a simple update for family and friends, it is quite humbling to have it be recognized in this way. And in case you’re wondering as I was, Budget Travel has a monthly readership level of….

…2 million! If this article is published as planned in the way that I've been told, more than 2 million Americans will be presented with this link in the middle of May. That is more than 1/5th of the entire population of Sweden. That number almost caused me to fall out of my chair when I first heard it.

So this week’s entry is a brief summary of some questions I answered for this article about helpful tips and advice to keeping a travel (or any type of) blog:

What’s the best way to start a travel blog? Any tips for beginners?

It’s really important to determine the purpose of your blog. Will it be just a journal on the internet? Is it just to keep others updated? How serious do you intend your blog to be? Are you going to submit it to some paper or publication? Another question: Will it truly be about travels or will it become political, uncomfortably personal or just a soapbox for opinions? Also, who is your intended audience? Is it ultimately for yourself and your personal reward or will it not be worth it unless you have a certain number of readers every week or month? The tone, language, writing style, content and approach will all be dictated by the answers to these questions.

Most bloggers start their blog with enthusiasm, then lose the commitment when the enthusiasm decreases. Most bloggers maintain their blog for the first three weeks to three months, then it ends with no real conclusion. Decide what you can realistically achieve with regard to quantity and quality in the beginning, then commit to that so your readers will know what to expect. Consistency (second only to quality content) for yourself and your readers is the key to any successful blog.

Where do you blog from? Internet cafes? Home? Do you search for Wi-Fi hotspots? What’s the best way for novice bloggers to locate an Internet connection on the road?

I prefer blogging from my own desk, but in order to keep entry consistency, blogging from the road must be an option. Plus, when you’re on the road is when your readers are most interested in what you’re experiencing. This also creates a “real time” feel to your journey and is very rewarding for both blogger and reader.

On the road, my first choice is an internet café so the connection is reliable and there is a familiarity to the setting. Wi-Fi hotspots aren’t always reliable or end up costing more than you intended to pay. Whether in big city or remote village, asking locals where the nearest internet café is usually your best bet.

Describe some of the challenges of maintaining a travel blog. How do you overcome them?

Whether writing a book, an article or a blog, the key to gaining your reader’s trust and return visit is one thing, quality of content. And, because of the medium, a blog must have consistency – no one likes clicking on a blog over and over and not seeing a new entry. Continually creating quality content and keeping reliable consistency is the most challenging part of maintaining a travel blog.

Two things help me to overcome this challenge: 1) Making sure I remain a curious and open-minded traveler always asking questions and seeking more understanding about the culture and nuances of life in a certain place and 2) routine and structure to my blogging schedule so that I make sure to allow the time needed to create an entry worthy of reading for the common browser.

What’s one great piece of advice you’d give to someone considering starting a travel blog?

A blog is simply a relationship between blogger and reader and needs to establish and maintain trust like all relationships. A blogger must define their specific purpose, declare it, stick with it and continually work to improve the content with consistent entries that readers can rely upon.

Another important piece of advice is regarding family and friends. Never assume or expect that friends and family have read or will read your blog. Occasionally remind people or send along what you think is a high-quality posting, but no one likes to feel like they got “caught” not reading your blog. If your blog is worthy of their time, they’ll read it and if not, they won’t and it shouldn’t affect your relationship to that person. Share things with others that you have written without assuming that they have read it.

It’s much better to assume that no friends and family have read your blog and be happily surprised when they actually have than it is to assume everyone has read your blog and be disappointed when they haven’t…

Tell me about your schedule. Do you blog the same time every day or every week? Do you specifically put time aside to blog? I imagine you must also have a full-time job—how do you make time to blog?

I am a very structured person, which helps tremendously in keeping a consistent entry schedule. I have a personal deadline of “by bedtime every Monday night,” but usually start working on the pictures and general outline on Sunday night. Topics and entry themes are considered and wrestled with weeks and sometimes months in advance. Like any other commitment, unreliable enthusiasm and energy must be offset by a well-thought out schedule and discipline.

How do you drive traffic to your blog?

Start small and let it grow with time (actually, you have no choice). Tell friends and family and occasionally remind them. Perhaps consider passing your link along to various publications. Take advantage of opportunities to share your link in various settings. Make it a fun part of your life that you genuinely enjoy sharing with others and it will grow, slowly but surely (if your content quality and consistency is good). Watch for any and all opportunities to get the word out about it and take advantage.

What’s the most rewarding part of having a blog?

In the end, my primary motivation for keeping a blog must be for my own satisfaction and personal reward (along with a nice keepsake from my journeys and adventures living abroad). Yet to know that there are some people out there who enjoy reading what you (or perhaps some popular commenters) have to say has been the most unexpected and enjoyable part of this whole experience in Sweden, except of course, for fika.

An Introduction to Baseball

2008-03-31T11:35:00.001-07:00

No, this is not an April Fool’s Day joke – and don’t you dare click away from Linköpinglivin’.

You knew this was coming one day and, now that it is clear that a majority of the Linköpinglivin’ readership is Swedish, this is your opportunity to give baseball a chance.

C’mon, do it for me – just pretend for a moment…

Imagine a warm summer’s day in a big city in the United States. The work week has finished, morning is passing by and a family of four or longtime college friends or a couple on a date or a group of international visitors are heading out to a 45,000 seat stadium to “take in a ballgame.” There’s not a bad seat in the stadium, hot dogs and drinks-of-choice have been purchased, the players run out on to the field, everyone stands for the National Anthem and at it’s conclusion, the umpire (referee) yells “Play Ball!”

For the next three hours, time will stop, conversation will be plentiful, occasional excitement will ensue, minds will wander, families and friends will laugh together and hopefully the home team will win. This is America’s game. Despite the recent popularity of American football, baseball is and always will be our "National Pastime."

And today, every year on the second Monday of spring, is what’s known as Opening Day, that beautiful day of the year when the baseball season has just begun, and there is a whole spring, summer and part of fall left to be played to determine the World Series champion – and Europeans in particular love that we call it the World Series!

As usual in describing the rules of a game to a new audience, any explanation sounds fairly degrading and childish, but here goes:

1) Each team tries to score more “runs” (points) than the other.

2) To score a run, a batter must advance to all four “bases,” the last one being “home plate” where the run is scored.

3) Each team has 9 “innings” or sets of chances to score runs before making three “outs,” which is what the defensive team is trying to get to stop the runs. Everything depends on whether and where the ball is hit when the pitcher has pitched it.

4) You have 2 parts to every inning – one for the away team and one for the home team.

5) After 9 innings, whoever has the most runs wins, unless it’s tied then you play as many innings as needed to determine the winner (“extra” innings is similar to overtime and my very favorite part of baseball).

Easy enough, right?

Famous and legendary teams are the New York Yankees, the Los Angeles Dodgers, the Boston Red Sox, the Chicago Cubs and a few others. I see Yankee and Dodger hats all over Europe, but I know enough to know that the Europeans wearing these hats have no idea who Babe Ruth, Joe DiMaggio, Sandy Koufax or Derek Jeter are (famous historical and current players).

Many people, even most Americans, make fun of baseball because “there is so much standing around.” It is said that in a three-hour baseball game, there is actually only 10 minutes of action. But that’s just the point! Baseball may be the last part of American society where it is acceptable, okay and even embraced to just stand around doing nothing – Swedes, think of baseball as one long equivalent of fika! Let us have our one place in society where we can sit back, relax, get away from it all and just enjoy a nice summer’s day with family and friends (and no work). Yes indeed, Americans need this game.

Baseball.

For those of you in Sweden willing to give this a try, check out NASN (North American Sports Network) anytime between now and the end of October. You’re bound to find a game, but just remember that the beauty of baseball is discovered in person, not on TV. Even most Americans say that baseball on TV is about as interesting as watching paint dry.

Now that wasn’t so hard, was it?

Go Dodgers!

Pictures above:

1. Yankee Stadium on a nice summer's night.

2. Fenway Park, home of the Boston Red Sox.

3. Within two hours of landing in Seattle last summer, I was in the front row of a baseball game - the best way to beat jet lag.

4. Growing up in LA, it's all about the beloved Dodgers.

London Calling and the American Traveler

2008-03-25T08:15:00.001-07:00

With the Swedish bank holiday season approaching, and a quickly dwindling personal vacation time, it’s important for me to use every last holiday to continue the exploration of Europe during this unique and still surprising season of life abroad (and hence the delay in this week's Linköpinglivin' entry, which I don't think anyone cares about nearly as much as I do).

During the long Easter weekend in Sweden (Good Friday and Monday off), it was the perfect time to return to London to finish off that itinerary that only grew longer during my first visit at Christmas time. And don’t you worry Sweden, there are always enough Swedes in London for me to continue working on my Swedish – in fact, the first two nights I randomly sat next to Swedes for dinner, which is always fun to surprise them with my Swedish though they hear instantly that I am in no way actually Swedish…

London is arguably the world’s most international city. Yesterday, I had the privilege of having lunch with a group of people representing 10 different countries (and there were only 12 at the table). In London, one is surrounded by people from virtually every country of the world at almost all times, but of course, I spot all the Americans instantly, which has become a fun game while I’ve been living abroad. On that note, I recently wrote a travel column for a paper in Southern California, which spoke to different things I’ve observed that Americans can remember in order to travel the world in a more culturally-aware and self-aware manner.

Aside from the most obvious, tennis shoes and white socks which give Americans away instantly – this is Europe’s little secret – here’s a few things perhaps not just for Americans, but maybe all travelers to remember in order to help make travel not just a sight-gawking fascination, but a deeper and richer experience of local people and differences of culture:

1. Consider your accommodation. High-priced hotels tend to protect you from rewarding personal experiences. Consider the local economy and locally-owned lodging such as family-run Bed & Breakfasts, places that supplement their main industry (farming, wine growing, etc.) with lodgings such as the Agriturismo phenomenon throughout Italy, private homes, hostels (not just for “youth” anymore) or even apartments that can be rented in a city center.

2. Consider your food choices. Food can be a rich experience of other places and people. Indeed throughout Europe, locals often stop everything for the right meal at the right time in the right place. By choosing a restaurant, market or picnic spot that is not in a tourist trap or on the main square, you can have a natural environment for interaction and cultural discovery over everyone’s favorite thing, food!

3. Take every opportunity to reach out and speak with locals and other travelers. Sometimes you will make new friends, other times it may not be welcomed, but the reward of getting to know the people who live in that region or country far outweighs the benefits of staying introverted. One is drawn to Europe in particular by famous sights and sounds (for instance, the sounds of church bells throughout Europe just never gets old), but one often leaves with an unexpected impression of people and perhaps some new international friends.

4. Know some history and background to your travel destination before going. What places or areas are considered important and why? What famous people have come from this region or country? Is this place most known for its art, literature, science, food, drink or all of the above? This will pique your interest and give a context to that monument or historical building. The research, planning and anticipation of the trip can be half the fun of travel.

5. Know current political and social trends and tensions of your travel destination. Opening yourself up to these discussions in a curious and open-minded manner can enliven even the already-exhilarating European excursion.

6. Self-awareness in various settings with regard to clothing, language and cultural expectations is important. One of the criticisms Americans get while abroad is that we often just don’t realize how loud we’re speaking in a quiet place or that what we’re wearing just isn’t quite appropriate for the season, time of day or occasion. The “ugly” American starts with a simple lack of self-awareness. Reading up ahead-of-time on local tendencies can make a big difference during the trip.

7. Know some key words and phrases in the local language. Don’t expect everyone to speak English, but be pleasantly surprised when they probably know enough to get by. Try hello, good-bye, please, thank you, excuse me and Do you speak English to start. Learning to count to ten for money purposes is probably wise, too.

8. Have a guidebook and use it, but only as a starting point to your travel experiences. For some travel fun, ask locals where they eat and what they do on a sunny, summer afternoon in this or that locale…

9. Make the decision ahead of time to not be defensive about the U.S. Try to dialogue with people about life in their country. You’ll find that people want to know about Americans and life in the U.S., but I have yet to meet anyone who wants to actually be an American.

10. Know your pre-conceived notions enough to give them a chance to be proven wrong. As surprising as this comes to many Americans, many French people are very friendly, but if you expect them to be a certain way, you’ll probably find some that are…

Pictures above:

1. St. Paul's Cathedral and the Millennium Bridge across the River Thames.

2. Big Ben in the famous London fog.

3. The London Eye is the best view of London, and the longest queue, in the whole city.

4. The Rosetta Stone in the British Museum is the archaelogical discovery that led us to decipher Egyptian hieroglyphics and opened up that whole civilization to be known by us in today's world.

5. The British Pub...

If You Want To Learn A New Language...

2008-03-17T12:27:00.001-07:00

After speaking this week with an American who might be coming to Sweden to live and work in the near future, and who expressed his deep desire to learn the language, I started thinking about what lessons I’ve learned in my continuing attempt to acquire the wonderful and elusive language of the Swedes.

So with an apology to you Europeans, this week’s Linköpinglivin’ entry is dedicated to any of you hoping to learn a new language, particularly you native and naive English-speakers with hopes of one day speaking Swedish. Listen up for lessons about language (and stop laughing that I have the audacity to claim some level of knowledge in this area):

Build a foundation, then you must simply practice: You must take a class or intensely study to gain the basics, then the continuing practice is up to you. It must become a part of your life, not just a class or something you do when you have a moment. Osmosis is a science term and by no means a guarantee of learning a language, especially if you know English.

Vowels: It may seem basic, but you can’t do anything without nailing the vowels. Spend your first week simply getting the vowels down. Your proper pronunciation will make all the difference in the long run. If all I did my first month was say "Å, Ä, Ö," things would have gone a lot better.

Phrases and sayings: My elementary approach to learning a language said that I could just learn the words, memorize some vocabulary, then spit it out just like I would in my own language. I learned embarrassingly late that you are not just learning the words to a language, but much more importantly, you are learning how to use that language appropriately and effectively. When learning to speak your new language, you must think of what it is you want to say, then think how this might best be said not in your native language, but in your new language (hint: do a lot of reading).

Read children’s literature: In fact, the more you become like a child in your learning attitude, the better off you will be…You Swedes, if you’re still reading this week’s entry, will be interested to know that I have finished Astrid Lindgren’s Mio, Min Mio and am currently reading Karlsson På Taket Smyger Igen. I thought that would make you smile….

M-O-T-I-V-A-T-I-O-N: Curiously, this word is spelled the same in English and Swedish. Perhaps because it is the single-most important element in learning a new language.

F-A-I-L-U-R-E is your best friend in learning a new language, so you’d better leave your pride at the door from the beginning…laughter is also helpful.

Being correct vs. being understood: Just because people understand you doesn’t mean you said it right or even well. Ask a lot of questions…

Order of acquisition? Depending on your approach, you may find that your order of language acquisition goes something like this: Reading, then writing, then understanding others, then speaking. I am currently on phase three and only hoping to get to phase four by the time I leave Sweden at the end of 2008. I’m keeping my fingers crossed or as we say in Sweden, “Holding my thumbs.”

What about grammar? If you’re anything like me and appreciate details, then you might think perfect grammar is important, but don’t get stuck and waste all your time in the grammar book. Learn the basics, then get the language. Details will come with time.

Exposure is essential. Conscious and sub-conscious exposure through all means is so helpful. Anyone who has been reading Linköpinglivin’ for awhile knows that I think a world without TV would be a good world indeed (sorry, Todd), but watching TV attentively and curiously is an excellent way to pick up understanding of the language.

Do Not Give Up. I have been tempted to do this and at moments have, but ultimately, I’m determined to not give up and you shouldn't either. Progress will eventually come, or so I've been told!

Though there are many people who deserve recognition for their great patience and persistence with my Swedish acquisition, the bulk of these lessons were articulated by “Elin,” who in good Swedish fashion would NEVER make a comment on the blog, but certainly has a lot of advice and opinions, of which she shares on a regular basis over email. Thanks, Elin.

Pictures above:

Linköping University Campus Valla this afternoon.

Though never surprised by snow in Sweden, we were all caught a little off guard by our return to winter all day today. A great day to delight in the beauty of winter once more before spring, unless of course, you were on a bike, of which I fell off just five seconds into my ride. One sweeeeeet wipe out that left me doing spontaneous snow angels. Here's to a Swedish spring!

De Röda Små Stugor

2008-03-10T12:21:00.001-07:00

The Little Red Cottages.

If you haven’t noticed, Sweden does the simple things really, really well. Those little things that help one appreciate life - the special parts to the day-to-day of living – Swedes do really, really well. Add to the list that Sweden is known as “the land of the little red cottage.”

And all it takes is a quick journey to the countryside to agree with this description of Sweden.

Starting in the spring and always throughout the summer, many (if not most) Swedes will spend time at a “little red cottage.” Always out in the countryside, usually near a lake, surrounded by family and friends, appreciating the bounty of summer and all it brings. De Röda Små Stugor and a Swedish Midsummer celebration go hand-in-hand. Why then, you ask, am I writing about this when spring hasn’t even arrived?

The problem I have is that my summer is spent either in the U.S. or working really hard at my job preparing for the arrival of new students to the university. My first “röd små stuga” experience was a couple of weeks ago. Yes, in the middle of winter. Not the quintessential little red cottage experience, but a good look into another Swedish national pastime and certainly worthy of a Linköpinglivin’ entry nonetheless.

It was time for a group of friends and I to make an overnight getaway from Linköping, so the little red cottage in the countryside was the destination of choice (but since this one slept ten people comfortably, most people agreed this was more of a “big red cottage”). Usually these summer homes are closed down some time in September and not opened up again until Easter, when the coming of spring looks promising after the long winter. Most Swedes either have or know someone who has one of these countryside cottages.

So what happens at these little red cottages during the summer? Best I can tell, a whole lotta “not too much.”

Go for a walk. Have some fika. Go for a swim. Then maybe some fika. Read a book. It’s time for fika. Play some games. Lo and behold, it’s fika time. It’s 11:00pm. The sun is starting to set. Another summer day at a little red cottage has come and gone. This is Sweden at it’s finest. This is Sweden doing the little things (that are actually the most important things in life) really, really well.

From what I remember about the U.S., we could sure use some of these “röda små stugor.”

A huge thanks to Sara and Andreas Vinsander – perhaps we can squeeze in a little red cottage weekend this summer?

Pictures above:

1. & 2. The land of the little red cottage.

3. Friends around the table – the best part of any weekend getaway or summer lazy day at the cottage.

4. A classic fika.

5. My addition to our weekend was the beloved American game, Jenga. I think it’s JUST about to catch on in Sweden…

King Vasa's Race and Blueberry Soup

2008-03-03T12:06:00.000-08:00

This may be my favorite Linköpinglivin’ title of all. The kind of title to which Swedes nod their head in approval and the rest of the world is dazed and confused. It includes a tip of the hat to Swedish history as well as the latest of many curious Swedish food traditions and edible delights connected with a larger nationwide celebration. (And watch out, “Waffle Day” is coming soon…)

This past Sunday was Sweden’s 84th Vasaloppet cross-country ski race, the largest of it’s kind in the world, which begins in the popular ski town of Sälen and ends “9 Swedish miles” or 90 kilometers away in Mora. One of the most celebrated sporting events of the year, the few Swedes who aren’t actually participating or spectating at the event itself, wake up early on the first Sunday morning in March (and waking up early on Sundays is definitely NOT a Swedish tradition) and take in the much-heralded start of the Vasalopp.

The fun part is that this race is in tribute to King (actually, almost king at the time) Gustav Vasa on a stretch of land that is part of the journey he made way back in 1520 trying to escape the hand of the Danish king affectionately known to Swedes as Christian, the Tyrant. I’ve stopped asking just where reality and myth connect in Swedish history, but apparently this one is more true than not…

An annual 15,000 participants take part in Vasaloppet. What used to be a Swedish-only event has now become global as enthusiasts from all over the world descend on Sälen to be a part of this celebration of a favorite Swedish wintertime sport. As a first-time observer (nice and warm in the cover of home, by the way), the array of colors and motion among the participants against the backdrop of a winter white wonderland did make for quite a sight. Usually the start of any kind of marathon-type event like this is a blur of bodies with no sense of order or organization. Granted in cross-country skiing this is a necessary element, but the perfect lines of participants, all following in 10 single-file rows to start, definitely induced a small whisper from this foreigner’s lips, “So Swedish. Perfect queue lines to start a competitive race…”

And sometime in the past 84 years of the Vasalopp, Blueberry Soup – Blåbärssoppa – became the beloved nourishment associated with this event. Not sure when and not sure why, but while participants can choose water, their favorite energy drink, etc., they also have the option of grabbing cups of blueberry soup, actually more of a drink, to help them persevere to Mora. For those watching the spectacle up close or from the comfort of their living room, Ekströms gladly provides them the option of their own Blåbärssoppa, as well.

Who won, you ask? Though winners throughout the years have come from Russia, Estonia, Finland, Austria, East Germany and others, the Swedes and Norwegians have dominated this event since it began. Yesterday, Norwegian Jörgen Auckland captured the title in just over four hours, the average time for the first finisher depending on snow conditions.

And of course, as an American, I think, “Hmm, no American has ever won Vasaloppet. Hmmmm.” Then I remember that the only time I’ve ever put on cross-country skis, I couldn’t wait for the next hill heading down. I’ll stick with basketball, running Ryd Skogen and downhill skiing, thanks.

Here’s to King Gustav Vasa's triumph over The Tyrant and to enjoyable Swedish wintertime food, fun and games (and for those interested, Vasaloppet is on SVT, Swedish Public Television - no commercials).

Melodifestivalen Kommer Till Linköping

2008-02-24T10:45:00.001-08:00

It was bound to happen.

Any legitimate blog about Swedish life, culture and times that doesn’t include something that 1/3 (1/3!!!) of the country watches every weekend from February to March is not worthy of it’s purpose.

By comparison, there is only one show in the history of United States television that has ever had 1/3 of the country watching - the finale of MASH in the late 70s...

I resisted this blog entry last year, largely because of blissful ignorance, but as I’ve become better acquainted with this increasingly strange-but-lovable culture, I am forced to take a week away from what I think are more important subjects to acknowledge, as painful as it is to say, Melodifestivalen, Sweden’s pinnacle of pop culture and the shameless obsession that overtakes Swedes (and their often clueless and always unsuspecting foreign guests) this time every year.

And really, is there any better time to introduce the peculiarities of Melodifestivalen and its accompanying Swedish cult than when the grand tour arrives to - that’s right - Linköping! You Americans may think that Linköping is always the hot topic of conversation throughout Sweden, but the reality is, well, it was the hot topic of conversation at least last night.

Melodifestivalen kommer till Linköping!

And Linköpinglivin’, risking all hard-earned respect, is right there covering the story…

For those in the USA, the best way to describe Melodifestivalen is to take the genre and contest format of American Idol (minus obnoxious judges), mix in the week-by-week elimination format and utter delirium of March Madness, add a good dose of a Super Bowl(!)-sized audience EVERY week, then put this grand show on tour throughout the country for six weeks ending with the final in Stockholm and there you have the cultural frenzy affectionately known as Melodifestivalen.

Oh, and one more thing that is just SO Swedish about Melodifestivalen: It’s on public television. In other words, 1/3 of all Swedes are watching EVERY week for six weeks and you won’t see a single advertisement or commercial. How’s THAT for an injection of socialism into capitalism?

I love Sweden.

One more side note on Linköping’s Melodifestivalen show: I had the opportunity to purchase up to three tickets – all for the bargain price of 500 SEK per ticket ($75)! I laughed as I quickly dismissed this offer, only to find out later I could have sold these tickets for three or four times that amount, at which point the laughing stopped.

“Scalping in Sweden” would have been a fantastic blog entry…

The winner of the final of Melodifestivalen will represent Sweden in the Eurovision Song Contest, which takes place in May (and you can read all of my outsider’s thoughts on the “ESC” by browsing to the May 2007 entry).

In case you’re wondering, no opinions from me on the performances. Still just shaking my head at the latest "VSE," Vintage Swedish Experience, I am privileged to have had.

And apparently, through some strange process of osmosis, I am becoming a bit Swedish, because in taking a critical tone towards Melodifestivalen, but somehow still enjoying it, I fit right in with an entire country that loves Melodifestivalen, but isn’t very proud of that fact.

Is it Saturday yet?

Why It's So Cool To Live in Linköping: Part 3 - Kanevad Woodcarving

2008-02-17T11:07:00.000-08:00

Sweden is known worldwide for high quality goods and services. When it comes to handicrafts, homemade specialties, unique and useful artisan products and simply top-notch, heart-invested items of all sorts, Sweden may have the world beat. During Christmas the “gifts-perfect-for-Mom” are simply in abundance…

In order to make the list of cool reasons to live in Linköping, the place has to be one that makes Linköping’s blue eyes light up, heads nod, conversation levels rise and provide an overwhelming general sense of hometown pride and fondness. Virtually synonymous with Gamla Linköping, the Old Town, is “the wood shop” or Kanevad Träsnideriet and the subject of the third part of the Linköpinglivin’ series on why Linköping is such a cool place to live.

Open since 1962, Kanevad is the kind of shop you wander into ignorant of the treasure you are about to discover. One look inside and Kanevad is a memorable part of any visit to Linköping. The sights of endless types heartfelt wooden creations and the smell of 30 different types of wood found throughout Sweden and beyond strike you immediately upon entry. And soon you become lost in a world of wood that leaves you speechless, sometimes laughing, often surprised and always in admiration of the artistic ability of Kanevad’s master woodcarver, Håkan Jansson.

In my tour of Kanevad with Håkan, I learned that he has been refining his trade for the last 30 years, working “at least” eight hours-per-day, always juggling various sets of orders from company logos to religious symbols to personal items to be displayed for weddings, in offices or for any other type of occasion or commemoration. Woodcarvings of the natural world, sports icons, Disney or Biblical scenes as well as everyday items such as cutlery, children’s toys or candleholders can be found throughout the shop for the person wandering through in awe of the creativity and ability of someone who loves his trade (or online: www.kanevad.se).

As someone with very little artistic talent, and certainly no ability to carve wood without putting digits and limbs in serious jeopardy, observing Håkan at work was a sheer delight. “Pine” and “birch” and “aspen” and “elm” were all types of woods I had heard of, but seeing them all together with the array of colors and textures (along with 25 other types of wood from deep in the Swedish forest) gave me insight as to what it may have been like to witness Rembrandt’s palette.

Unfortunately, the era of globalization has even impacted Linköping’s favorite woodcarving shop. In the past several years, the number of orders from Kanevad has decreased rapidly due to China’s wood export business, which sells similar products for less money (along with dramatically lower quality and personal investment, of course). Linköpingsborna, kom tillbaka, eller upplev för första gången, den bästa butiken i vår stad!

Kanevad Träsnideriet, one more reason why Linköping is such a cool place to live.

A Presidential Nomination - Only in America

2008-02-11T10:06:00.000-08:00

I just couldn’t stand the thought of putting pictures of politicians on my blog, so it’s the flags for you.

In a recent study, it was determined that the vast majority of Linköpinglivin’ readers are Swedes, so in light of this, I think a quick tip of the Linköpinglivin’ cap should go to the very intriguing political process taking place in the U.S. to determine our future leader, especially since an often-heard comment here is “Why is it so long and complicated?”

(Please know that not just any political event would usurp the continuing examination and dialogue on Sweden, but as we approach November, the U.S. elections will only take on more intensity worldwide, so one week set aside doesn’t seem too inappropriate.)

As for a very basic introduction, there are essentially three candidates left that could possibly become the next American president: Hillary Clinton who would be the first-ever woman and Barack Obama who would be the first-ever person of color of the Democratic Party and John McCain, a decorated and respected war hero, on the Republican side.

What is happening right now, ever so slowly and state-by-state, is all part of the “primary” process. The reason it is indeed such a long and drawn out process is not because the U.S. just loves to have all the world attention all the time (okay, perhaps that’s a part of it), but because of the uniqueness of the 50 states (and a few more districts) in the U.S. Each state needs proper representation and deserves an appropriate say in who will be representing both parties – by “appropriate,” I mean proportional based on the number of people who actually live in that state, which brings us to a key word, “delegate.” California has more people than Nevada, so if someone “wins” California, they receive a lot more “delegates” than if they win Nevada. The current process is simply giving each state a chance to say who they want from either political party. The two winners will face each other in the general election and then it becomes similar to all Western democracies – endless media hype, debates, political spin, attacks and often both participants make fools of themselves and their dignity in order to get elected (but only because that’s what we make them do…).

The new president won’t be elected until the first week of November and won’t actually take office until the end of January ’09.

In general, from what I have heard and seen, Europeans enjoyed the last Clinton presidency and would be very content to see Hillary have a chance. Many people from non-Western nations simply take a look at Obama’s skin color and name and identify with him (and for whom the Swedish Prime Minister, Fredrik Reinfeldt, has already expressed public support). However, the economy is always such an unpredictable factor in an election and many people inside and outside of the U.S. just feel better about business and the world financial markets when a conservative is in command in the U.S., especially with the recent turmoil of the U.S. economy.

And THAT, my friends, is why this is going to be so interesting.

One thing is for sure, this process has captured the imagination of more people than ever in the United States. People from all different backgrounds and ages are participating like never before and this can only be a good thing in a democracy.

I won’t say here with whom I am leaning, but I’d love to hear your thoughts, especially if you live outside of the U.S.

And lastly, Europe, please forgive us for thinking that we’re actually electing a president of the world. Your thankless patience is always appreciated…

Next week, it’s back to Linköping and the next reason why it is just so cool to live here.

"Football" vs. Football

2008-02-04T10:56:00.000-08:00

As for which one is meant to be questionable and therefore in quotes, I’ll let the reader decide.

Last night was the 42nd American Football Super Bowl between the New England Patriots and the New York Giants. In honor of this annual, colossal game, it’s time to address one of the most popular issues that comes up when speaking with Swedes and all Europeans about any kind of sports. Yes, as an American you can always count on the conversation finally turning to “football.”

Misunderstanding about “football” abounds from San Diego to Sao Paulo to St. Petersburg. Americans label European/worldwide football “boring” and Europeans label American football as “confusing” or “violent.” It is at this point that most people’s interest in learning about the “other” football stops. With the exception of those rare games when someone suspends their lack of interest in learning more long enough to watch the spectacle, be it for the World Cup when Americans take a casual interest in the European/worldwide football or for the occasional Super Bowl that Europeans might try to have an open mind and explore why so many Americans (and TV advertisers) go crazy over one game, interest in learning more is minimal, so the controversy and misunderstanding lingers on.

I am not about to try to explain either kind of “football” game or attempt to convince anyone about the superiority of one game’s strategy or another game’s skill or which game has more beauty or less moral value. However I do encourage you, the next time you have a chance, to suspend your lack of interest in learning more and try and find out why soooo many people on so many continents enjoy both games (okay, perhaps that’s a stretch, but there was an “NFL Europe” at one time…).

Of all the questions I am often asked about American Football, my favorite is this one:

Question: “Why do you call it ‘football’ when you almost never touch the ball with your foot?”

Answer: In order to annoy the rest of the world! And apparently it’s working…

I’ll leave with this thought: It doesn’t matter which “football” game is better, because neither one is as good as baseball! Only 10 days until pitchers and catchers report to their teams for spring training! Go Dodgers!

By the way, Europeans, don’t even ask me to explain “Super Tuesday”…

Pictures above:

1. & 2. Recent logos representing two great sports.

3., 4. & 5. My “America is Awesome” Super Bowl pre-party we had last night before heading to an American-styled sports bar in Linköping for the game. A big thanks to Linköping’s O’Leary’s for staying open really, really late on a Monday morning. On hand were representatives from Czech, Austria, Sweden and, of course, the USA! Huge props to Mike, Vaclav, Jana, Benedikt, Alfred, Reinhardt, Susanne and Andreas for their impressive suspension of lack of interest in learning more, and from 12:30am – 4:30am, no less. And...

...The classic American feast: Doritos, Coca-Cola, Budweiser, Apple Pie and, of course, Peanut Butter – what to put the peanut butter on we didn’t know, but since this party was hosted by an American, we had to have our peanut butter.

Top 10 Pieces of Unsolicited Advice for Foreigners in a Strange Land

2008-01-28T12:00:00.000-08:00

Oh, how readers of Linköpinglivin’ love their Top 10 lists, second only to “Fun Facts” in popularity. It has been awhile and, well, you really deserve this.

Occasionally, fellow foreigners will comment about the helpful nature of Linköpinglivin’ for people interested in learning about life in Sweden or even what it's like to move abroad. Though the title should explain it all, I will qualify that, especially in light of last week’s entry, this list is not meant to be inclusive of those who have been forced to a new country by necessity or desperation, but could be of some use, despite those difficult circumstances.

However, if you have chosen to venture away from your native country for professional, personal or adventure-seeking reasons for a period of time or forever, then listen up (along with a small personal “1 – 10” self-evaluation and comment following each proclamation):

10) Immerse yourself in your new place, not your home from afar.
With the wonders of the Internet (Email, Skype, Social Networks, websites from home), it is wholly possible to live parallel lives in two countries. This limits the experience of the new culture, country and personal acclimation to your new world. While you can live with one foot in both places, I recommend against it as much as possible. At least give yourself reasonable boundaries from home until you are fully immersed in your new surroundings: Personal Grade: 3 – My experience in Sweden, and particularly my language acquisition, has been significantly hampered by my continual and constant, many-times-daily exposure to home. I realized this helpful piece of advice way too late…

9) Speak with native speakers in their language, demand it.
In some places, you have no choice, and for this you should be thankful. Oh, I can hear the cries of hypocrisy now, but hey, at least I’m trying to help others to do what I haven’t….Personal Grade: 3

8) Join a social group.
You need to meet people. You need to meet people more than just colleagues, more than fellow students. And you need to get out there and be intentional about it. Whatever your interests, go find the nearest club, group, church or social organization so you can begin to make friends. It doesn’t happen automatically. Get after it! Personal Grade: 9 – Ryttargårdskyrkansfolk, tack så, så mycket för allt!

7) Don’t let this life adventure become normal.
When you’re new to a place, your eyes, ears and mind is wide open. Keep it that way! Embrace the newness and abnormality and make the decision to keep it that way – don’t lose that wonderful curiosity…Personal Grade: 8 (and trying hard to keep it there).

6) Adjust to your new financial surroundings and don’t compare.
If you’re moving to a country that is more expensive than your native country, think in your new currency and don’t compare. When you go home, think in that currency, but never the two shall meet (or if you come to a country like Sweden, you’ll be crying the whole time). If you’ve moved to a country less expensive than your native country, compare every day and have a great time!!!! Personal Grade: 7 – Sorry America, but it sure is a great time to be getting paid in Swedish Kronor!

5) Move out of your comfort zone, get extroverted and ask a lot of questions.
I know, I know, easy for an American to say, but it sure does help with a lot of the other pieces of advice found here…Personal Grade: 8 – Believe it or not, I really am an introvert at heart.

4) Make a decision to not get defensive about your home country.
Let’s be honest, I have full credibility to speak to this one! If you separate your identity from your country – and, by the way, you are NOT your country – your experience can be full of rich discussions about culture, life and worldwide experiences of people and nations. If you’re defending your country the whole time, no one has much fun…Personal Grade: 9 – There have been a couple conversations in which I was taken down, but usually the only thing I get defensive about is…..my beloved baseball, so just don’t even bring it up!

3) Experience your new country in every season of the year.
Just like a relationship, you never really know until you’ve been in it through all the seasons of the year…Personal Grade: 10 – I simply love the seasons in Sweden and will dearly miss the extremes when I am gone.

2) Persistently request, welcome and embrace all visitors.
Sharing your new locale with family, friends and acquaintances wandering through is simply a joy. Let people know they are always welcome and treat them like visiting royalty when they make the (sometimes long) journey. Personal Grade: 10 – And all of you in the U.S. are still welcome to experience the polar bears on the streets and igloos in which we live here in Sweden – the promise of going down in blog lore is still valid. Thanks to those of you who have gone out of your way.

1) Keep a blog, journal, record, diary or whatever you need to help cherish the experience.
Document it because you’ve never had it so good. Personal Grade: 9 – I wish I’d kept a more personal journal, because believe it or not, I do not choose to share my innermost being on Linköpinglivin'…

Pictures above:

Some mighty strange things found in Sweden, except the market fresh "Brains, Liver and Tongue" found in Paris.

Homogeneity, Diversity and Race in Sweden: Part II

2008-01-21T12:14:00.001-08:00

I often hear from honest people that this year's Linköpinglivin' entries aren't quite as fun as last year's. I can understand that, and in some ways, I agree with them. As a naïve foreigner, wide-eyed, curious and embracing, it was a lot easier to write last year, too. However, for those still willing to read when it’s not quite as lighthearted, hopefully this year’s Linköpinglivin’ is a bit more real, a bit more meaningful and perhaps, on some level, at least occasionally, maybe even fun!

This week’s topic re-visits a subject discussed earlier on Linköpinglivin’ and still just as dicey and difficult as ever, here in Sweden and elsewhere. To read the earlier entry on homogeneity and diversity in Sweden, see the September 3, 2007 entry.

Though the flight from the homeland and Swedish reception of immigrants in general and Iraqis in particular has decreased in recent months, the overall increase of non-native Swedes continues, which emphasizes the question even more: How do you successfully integrate natives and non-natives so that everyone can fairly and equally pursue what many believe to be “God-given” or “self-evident” rights? Second only to the economy, this discussion dominates political conversations throughout Sweden as immigrants reap the benefits of very high taxes that Swedes are all-too aware of and concerned about.

Personally, as an educator-at-heart, helping students learn how to recognize and humbly address these issues is something for which I feel responsible. At Linköping University’s campus, the international exchange student enrollment is only on the rise, but so often these students come to Sweden, have classes and live with other English-speaking internationals visiting Sweden in the same way, then go home having made friends with people from multiple countries of the world, but not necessarily any Swedes. I think the main problem is simply language – when you walk into a room of people, you want to be with the people you’re comfortable with and language is the very first obstacle – then cultural and other hindrances follow after that. The issue on campus can be seen as a microcosm of the larger issue (not just in Sweden, but in any country that seeks to integrate foreign-speakers seeking an improved life).

The result is, as in so many countries, isolated communities of similar-looking, similar-acting and similar-believing people groups who try to manage and try to make the best of the situation. Just as Americans genuinely care for and appreciate the Mexican-immigrant, but want to do something about a situation that simply can’t remain status quo, so Swedes want to provide a country where war- and corruption-torn citizens can flee to for safe-haven, sanctuary and new possibilities, but know that these dreams will never be realized for anyone if the current policies and social patterns continue. Difficult issues.

Perhaps a better title to this entry is simply “Immigration in Sweden,” but you know how I like my series and “Part Is,” “Part IIs,” Part IIIs,” etc.

Though not often seen on the Linköpinglivin’ comments, I do occasionally get some very profound and insightful comments about various topics through email. This topic along with recent topics like “Neutrality” and other hot ones have provided some very good feedback. The following excerpts came after the last entry on this topic from one Swede who, surprise-surprise, would like to remain anonymous. So you know who you are and thanks for your contribution:

“One must bear in mind that Sweden has had very few colonies and those few were lost long ago. Immigration to Sweden has been mostly by 'tradecraft experts' like Germans in the middle ages, Vallonians and Dutch in the 1600s, Italians and Yugoslavs in the 1960s and 70s. In the 70s and up until now immigration has been mainly refugees. Palestinians, Chileans, people from the Middle East. One and a half million people in Sweden are first or second generation immigrants.

Sweden has transformed since I was a kid. In my class in 'grundskolan' we had one Korean girl, adopted of course. Of roughly 150 (five 'classes') of us in ninth grade at Folkungaskolan there were less than five non-European children. This was 1990. Now you can't find a single class in school with less than a third of non-Europeans. So I can't agree that the racial homogeneity remains the same. But it is true that only one-sixth of the Swedish population is non-European.

Racism, yes we have it. You'd be hard-pressed to find it though, because if you ask someone he'd most likely answer the politically correct way. Many would however add the phrase 'I'm not a racist, but...' The fact that all these immigrants have all arrived here over the last three decades, most after 1990 even, when the economy has been less-than-stable and the policies of how to integrate these people into Swedish society have been amateur, at best, makes us a bit skeptical about immigration, some even of immigrants. Myself? I think we shouldn't accept more immigrants than we can take care of, because that would be a sure way of creating a racist problem. Non-integrated, unemployed immigrants who live in their own parts of town and are overrepresented in the criminal statistics are the result of the policies employed since the 1970s and there must be a change, for their own sakes.

You mention Jews, or rather the absence of them, in your blog. I beg to differ, since I personally know several. Before 1750 there were no Jews in Sweden. Not one. This is because the strict laws on religion forbade all faiths except the 'true holy Lutheran' faith preached by the church of Sweden.”

I think that’s enough for now. If you made it this far, you’re probably better than most. Until next week, “Hej då” from Linköping.

(Pictures above are some of the students with whom I work, both Swedish and international. They generally like to get some representation on the blog, if they're aware of it, but I'm not sure this topic was what they had in mind.....The last one if of Jonas Morling, of whom I am now a proud Facebook fan club member.)

The Return of Swedish Fun Facts

2008-01-13T12:32:00.001-08:00

After enduring a personal trip journey for a few weeks, you deserve a return to some good ol’ Swedish fun facts, so here’s the latest edition of Linköpinglivin’s obscure observations, interesting (sort of) information, curious digressions, brief commentary and quick acknowledgments of all things Sweden that are mostly true, occasionally entertaining and always random:

1) Birthday parties in Sweden are generally planned, hosted and provided by the celebrant, not friends or colleagues. There are, of course, exceptions such as the hallmark birthdays of “0s and 5s,” which are often commemorated in grand style and prepared by the expected number of different people.

2) On that note, each day of the year is also a “Name Day” or namnsdagen. Every day is given a name, usually one male and one female, and though it seems the tradition is passing, people with that name are often acknowledged on this day. Namnsdagen also works its way into various other cultural traditions, such as the Swedish flag is raised when the Name Day is “Carl” because…..

3) Somehow overlooked on Linköpinglivin’ until now is the fact that Sweden is one of just a handful of European countries that still have official royalty. King Carl XVI Gustaf and his German-born wife, Queen Silvia, have three children (Crown Princess Victoria, Prince Philip and Princess Madeline). Victoria, who recently turned 30 years old, will one day be the first Queen of Sweden since 1654 due to a recent change of the law that states the firstborn, male or female, shall inherit the throne. Figureheads who hold no actual power, Swedes generally look upon their royalty with affection and, as expected, gossip newspapers adore each and every move of the royal family…see picture above of the royal family at the annual Nobel ceremony in December.

4) When going to a movie in Sweden, remember that your seat is reserved – we simply will not stand for chaotic seat selection in this country – and your ticket price is based on length of movie (the most recent Pirates of the Caribbean, at three hours, was the equivalent of $18! Ouch.). Swedes pride themselves on not dubbing (just subtitling) their English movies as in France, Germany and Italy, swearing that this is the reason they speak such great English and, after watching dubbed TV throughout Austria and Germany, I would agree that this does make a big difference, especially for children growing up hearing English every day through TV, movies, etc.

5) Chalk another one up for Swedish equality: It is very common for the newly wedded male and female to take her last name, rather than his. Sometimes they will make up or choose another last name entirely.

6) “The Eyes Have It”: The world-renowned, attractive Swede is generally known for her blonde hair however true or not this is, but when visitors come to Sweden, including this long-term visitor, it’s the eyes that leave one speechless…captivating, intoxicating, beautiful (and usually) blue eyes.

7) Sweden etiquette, like most of Europe, demands the Continental Style of holding silverware. Upside-down fork in the left hand and knife in the right. No “cutting and switching” American style. Try it sometime. It’s WAY more comfortable and simple…and, no matter where I live, I will use this manner of utensil-holding the rest of my life. Skål!

8) There are two companies that run overnight boats across the Baltic Sea to Helsinki, Finland and Tallin, Estonia. You hop on the boat in Stockholm in the late afternoon on Friday, cruise all night and pull into one of these two harbors early on Saturday morning, run around a new fun capital city for the day and get back on for an all night ride back to Stockholm, arriving early in the morning on Sunday. Not a bad way to to take less than a weekend, see a new city, experience the Swedish Archipelago islands not once, but twice and meet new people!

9) Something that has received no mention at any time on Linköpinglivin’ is my love for playing basketball. In fact, after a year-and-a-half in Sweden, just this past weekend was the first time I picked up a basketball and played hoops. I made sure to make my first shot in Sweden….

10) And speaking of my length of time in Sweden, my work contract has been extended from June until December. So what was originally “two years” will eventually be two-and-a-half memorable years with the Swedes.

Pictures above:

1. The latest view of the Gamla Stan spires rising above Stockholm - this picture taken from a boat crossing Stockholm Harbor.

2. The dessert table at a recent Swedish julbord. Delicious.

3. We've had a few days of higher temperatures and, get this, sunshine (!!) in Sweden this week. For those of you curious, "higher temperatures" means 5 degrees Celsius, about 40 Farenheit. Pleasant...balmy, really.

4. If it's January in Sweden, it means that everyone is wildly anticipating the return of the beloved Semla, a.k.a. cream puff, but as with many things here in Sweden, it's just more than a cream puff...

5. Most of the pictures on Linköpinglivin' are of my own taking, but this one, admittedly, was not me at the Nobel Gala in December. Maybe next year...

Munich and a Viennese New Year

2008-01-06T11:40:00.000-08:00

For those of you beginning to wonder, “I thought this was a blog about Linköping and Sweden,” I kindly ask that you indulge me for one more week as I finish a great holiday trip…

After London and Salzburg, my journey halfway complete, the final two stops on my swing through continental Europe for Christmas and New Year's took me to Munich, Germany and Vienna, (back to) Austria. Though Salzburg is in the middle of these final two stops, and not the most efficient itinerary, things other than geography were important and this also gave me more time on smooth trains riding through the Bavarian and Tirolean Alps – never a bad thing and a nice breather in the midst of a demanding travel schedule.

"München" is Bavarian country, which traditionally means lederhosen, all kinds of “wurst,” big beer steins, bread loaf-size pretzels, a little yodeling, Alps and an uproarious good time had by all. While I didn’t see (too much) lederhosen, all the other things were true and my Munich experience will be remembered for the large amount of people in a fairly small area (Munich is actually smaller than its reputation, for sure), the crystal clear days, the fairy tale castles, my Italian entourage at the Hofbräuhaus, and the satisfaction of being a tourist, but because of my time in Sweden with Germans, actually having friends to see and spend time with in their native country. A big thanks to Frauke and Christoph for your warm German hospitality in the middle of a cold and snow-filled morning.

After three quick days in Munich, it was off to Vienna to celebrate the New Year with the Viennese (and a whole lot of others as it turned out). Vienna seems to get overlooked on many American’s Europe itineraries. Most Americans wouldn’t even know Vienna as the capital of the Hapsburg dynasty/Empire, which ruled Europe along with a few other families for almost 600 years!

Now Vienna relaxes as a former world-changer content to revel in an architecturally grand city with a café and leisure culture second-to-none (even Paris). Never too far from waltzing music, the traveler to Vienna is simply charmed by the palatial buildings, elegant cafés, sprawling parks and greenery (or so I am told when it’s not winter), music and opera culture and regal atmosphere.

Throw in a celebratory holiday like New Year’s and it makes for quite the party. Despite the typical alcohol-laden license for recklessness that so many unfortunately adopt on New Year’s Eve, my New Year’s in Vienna will be remembered for the citywide ballroom (see picture) and thousand person Blue Danube waltz at midnight, ringing in the New Year as only the Viennese can.

“Prosit Neujahr” (Happy New Year) and next week we return to Sweden to continue our exploration and enjoyment of all things Swedish.

Pictures above:

1. The Munich skyline generally consists only of Our Lady Cathedral in the distance and New Town Hall in the foreground.

2. I took a day excursion deep into the Bavarian Alpine region in search of "Mad" King Ludwig's fairy tale castles. This is Neuschwanstein, built in the late 1800s for the sole purpose of looking like it's out of the imagination of children.

3. A funny thing happened when I went to Munich's famed Hofbräuhaus. Before I knew it, I was joined at the table by 10 Italians and the party was on! Bongiorno - Viva Italia!

4. The streets of inner-city Vienna during the holidays are a spectacle of lights portraying the best of the ballrooms for which Vienna is so famed. "May I have this dance?"

5. Rathausplatz, city hall square, in Vienna where the New Year was welcomed to the tune of Strauss' The Blue Danube waltz. Vienna? New Year's? Perfect.

Christmas in Salzburg

2007-12-31T11:35:00.000-08:00

When I was last in Salzburg in the autumn of 1993, I remember thinking, “What an idyllic little place. It would be fun to spend Christmas here someday.”

Well, that “someday” was last week and Salzburg lived up to it’s yuletide expectations by providing a little bit of snow, all the “glüwein and punsch” one could imagine and most of all, a family of friends from Seattle with whom to spend the actual holiday.

As I was wandering about Salzburg mesmerized by the Christmas cheer - Austrian style, I was struck by the fact that the American idealized vision of Europe, however romantic and unrealistic it might be, is truly captured in this one small city in central Austria. Salzburg simply has it all: a castle/fortress on the hill, cobblestone streets with colored facades, a huge and illustrious Baroque cathedral, non-English speaking locals (but with enough to get by as a tourist), spectacular history and significant figures of history (Mozart was born here and wrote many of his concerts with this very cathedral in mind), Alps all around, a rollicking beer hall with very large steins of locally-made beer, seemingly ceaseless cathedral bells, never-ending arts and culture and a river running right through it. Not even to mention that one of the most beloved movies of all time, The Sound of Music, is the quintessential Salzburg showcase.

And when you add snow, horse-drawn carriages, Christmas markets, lights and the Christmas merriment of this time of year, Salzburg becomes a storybook Christmas city – and on top of all this, the most famous and translated Christmas carol worldwide, Silent Night, was written and first performed in a small church just 20 kilometers from Salzburg in 1818. Silent Night is a very sacred song to the Austrian people.

Add to all this holiday fun my friends from Seattle - Dan and Shena Hinds and her parents, John and Jean McCall - and Christmas in Salzburg was an unforgettable way to celebrate the season.
If I couldn’t be surrounded by family and friends around the Christmas tree in Southern California, Salzburg surrounded by temporary family in the form of good friends was the next best place.

So as we’re on the brink of the new year and Linköpinglivin is a step behind, I wish you one last “Frohe Wiehnachten” from Salzburg, Austria.

Pictures above:

1. The castle on the hill, the Baroque church, a bit of snow - Salzburg plays the part well.

2. The German and Austrian Christmas markets are the world's best (and most expensive).

3. Salzburg plays up its strengths and it knows that tourism is its strongest asset - there is even a store called "Christmas in Salzburg" as well as "Easter in Salzburg" just down the street.

4. My Christmas dinner was spent at St. Peter's Restaurant, one that Charlemagne (yes, Charlemagne!) mentions eating at way back in 803 making this the oldest known restaurant in Europe...

5. A big thanks to my friends Jean, John, Dan and Shena for letting me crash their Christmas party in Salzburg.

Christmastime in England

2007-12-23T12:24:00.000-08:00

After being home as recently as October and wanting to fulfill longtime Christmas travel dreams, I decided not to go home for the holidays for the first time ever (another huge shout-out to Mom and the rest of the family for their understanding) . This week started a two-week European holiday travel trip of which the first stop was about as close to my home as you could get without actually setting foot in the U.S. (Sorry, England, but it's true).

When I first returned to Europe (after a college study abroad trip in ’93) for this opportunity in Sweden, my travel urge was more focused on Eastern Europe and other places not previously visited. My how things change… After two Paris weekends and this stop in London, I understand that these all-too typical destinations on the usual American itinerary in Europe are for good reason. To be in London and the smaller English town of Bath during the festive Christmas season was the clincher for my decision and the past five days have been Victorian outstanding.

After my weekend in Stockholm in early December, which I consider my first stop on this holiday trip and with visions of a Dickensian Christmas dancing in my head, I arrived to London earlier this week. The Christmas spirit could never be omnipresent in a city like this – it’s just too big – but if you know where to go, the Christmas merriment is in full swing. My favorites were the Somerset House for ice-skating, Trafalgar Square for the annual Norwegian gift of the larger-than-life Christmas “spruce,” the decorations and spirit at Covent Garden, St. Paul’s Cathedral and other churches for Christmas services and celebratory concerts, Oxford Circus for the bright lights - big shopping atmosphere and all of Bath, the quintessential Victorian town two hours outside of London. It doesn’t get much better than a candlelight Christmas concert in the historical abbey of a charming English countryside town.

Some other highlights, thoughts and impressions on England and the Brits:

Culturally and undoubtedly due to language, I definitely feel a kindred spirit with the English people I have met and with the experiences I have had here. My heritage is English and Scottish, so that certainly has something to do with it as well. It wasn’t just because there’s a Starbucks on every corner (literally as many as Seattle, the home of Starbucks) that I noticed an inner connection to England and her people.

London just never quits. I’ve been going strong for five days and my future London itineraries just keep getting bigger. So much rich culture, history, tradition, art, theater, exhibitions, opportunities and pubs(!!!). Love those pubs! Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, the first and most authentic pub in London (“rebuilt” in 1667), was tops on my list.

An overlooked exhibit in London is the Treasures of the British Library. In one 300 square meter location is nothing short of the textual foundation of Western Civilization: the oldest version we have of the New Testament and many books of the Old, the Magna Carta, some of the very first maps ever created, the Gutenberg Bible, Shakespeare and other literary giants, Handel’s Messiah and other priceless compositions and the list goes on. For anyone with a remote interest in history, art or cultural artifacts, this free exhibit is a must.

You’ve heard right. London is indeed very expensive…and worth every pence.

And for someone who doesn’t like to experience cities with heat or tourists, the week before Christmas in London was simply ideal for me. I did the obligatory walk through Her Majesty’s Crown Jewels, a place that routinely has at least an hour-long line, and never had to stop! Additionally, London is known as such an international city that sometimes it's hard to find any authentic English people. This hasn't been the case at all - this week I've heard very few other languages than English.

And oh those British accents…

Tomorrow I leave for my next destination, where I will spend Christmas Eve, Day and Boxing Day (as the British and Canadians refer to it). See you next week from another storybook location on this European holiday journey.

“Happy Christmas” from England.

Pictures above:

1. Trafalgar Square at night, the very heart of London, and the Christmas tree from the people of Norway (an annual gift to thank the British for their help in WWII).

2. The Somerset House ice-skating rink.

3. Covent Garden, already an arts, crafts and shopping mecca in London, becomes even more so during the Christmas season.

4. Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, the oldest pub in London and a classic pub scene inside...

5. Bath is a picturesque town at all times, but especially at Christmas.

Why It's So Cool To Live in Linköping: Part 2 - Mjellerums Gården

2007-12-16T09:58:00.000-08:00

Sorry about the formatting, everyone. For the first time in a long time, Blogger has outsmarted me.

After my initial October post in this occasional series of reasons why Linköping is such a cool place to live, if you were wondering when this series was going to continue as November came and went and we proceed through December quickly, then you deserve an award. The second part of this five-part series focusing specifically on Linköping and its best parts takes us to a very tradtional Swedish restaurant that feels way out in the countryside, though is actually only minutes from Linköping's inner-city.

When I first arrived to Linköping, I inquired as to where was a good place to find some traditional Swedish food. A typical question for a foreigner to a new place, however, the response I got was a mix of places that have typical Swedish food (fish, meat, potatoes), but are not quite the whole experience of dining in Swedish style and perplexed guesses as to what type of experience I was really in search of. It seemed like a basic question, but the answer was a bit harder. Part of the problem is that cuisines from other countries have such a distinct taste and type of food (Italian, Chinese, Mexican, French, Indian, etc.), but Swedish food is not that distinct in nature, but if you find the right place, the experience of eating in Swedish style can be outstanding.

Eventually, Mjellerums Gården was recommended as a place to experience a traditional Swedish plate in a traditional Swedish environment. Mjellerums Gården belongs deep in the Swedish countryside somewhere, but is actually right next to the university just outside of the center of Linköping. Walking in the front door, you are warmly greeted by a hostess in traditional attire and you are immediately taken back to 18th century Sweden because of the ambience, the soft scent and sound of a crackling fireplace as well as the manor which you have entered was built about 200 years ago.

As to be expected for a place with this type of tribute-to-Sweden-of-yesteryear environment, there's no better time to experience Mjellerums Gården than during the Christmas season with the not-to-be-outdone julbord (picture above), the continual flickering of candles surrounded by Christmas greenery, gently creaking floorboards, and the occasional light snowfall seen through the window.

A picturesque Swedish scene at Christmas or any other time of year and a taste and quality of food to match. For more on this classic Swedish experience right here in Linköping, check out the website:

http://www.mjellerumsgarden.se/

Pictures above:

1. Mjellerums Gården front door decorated in December.

2. The Swedish "Christmas table" or julbord. Just make sure to leave room so you can keep coming back for more...

3. The ingredients to a classic fika.

4. Mjellerums Gården is another reason that Linköping is such a cool place to live.

While Linköpinglivin' will not be taking a break during the coming holidays, it will be taking a break from Sweden as this week begins a couple weeks of European Christmas travel for me. See you next week from official stop #2 (Stockholm last weekend) on the European Christmas journey.

Jul i Stockholm

2007-12-10T10:56:00.001-08:00

It’s been awhile since I have mentioned Sweden’s largest and most well known city (notice I did not say “best,” Linköpingsborna) and there is no better time to welcome Stockholm back to Linköpinglivin’ than during the Christmas season. In what has quickly become a personal tradition, I spent this past weekend taking in the sights and sounds (Handel’s Messiah at Storkyrkan – Americans just can’t get enough concerts in cathedrals) of the holiday season in a city that just grows on me more and more, and it started pretty high on my favorites list.

I consider Stockholm the first stop on my European holiday adventure 2007 – 08 that will take me through continental Europe during the upcoming Christmas and New Year’s holidays. A quick shout-out to my Mom who has just been awarded “World’s Best Mother-2007” for supporting this decision of mine to be away from home during Christmas for the very first time in 34 years…

The experience of Christmas in Stockholm is centered, not unlike other European cities, on the lights, the Christmas markets, delightful window displays (though NK’s is arguably the best!) and the ever-present and merry food and drink, gingerbread cookies and hot mulled wine (pepparkakor och glögg).

While anywhere there’s capitalism there will be commercialism at Christmas, Stockholm’s representation of the season is understated, refined and always carries a nice mix of class, wintry magic and childlike delight. There are lights, but they are not blinding. There are festivities, but not overwhelming carnivals. There is shopping, but you can get away from it if you want. Finally, there is way too much pepparkakor och glögg, but no one is complaining about that!

For a Christmas season spent in Europe, Stockholm is a fantastic first stop.

I continue to realize that I was born into the right family in the wrong location. There’s just something about the beauty and sparkle of light during wintertime this far north that makes me appreciate this season all the more. Fire and ice, which are everywhere in their various forms this time of year, bring with them such a romantic, almost-mystical atmosphere. If only the snow would come back…

The sun is setting during the 3pm hour in southern Sweden these days. It rises at approximately 8:45am. When the days are short, it must mean Lucia is somewhere close by…

Pictures above:

1. Even in Stockholm, the larger-than-life Christmas tree welcomes incoming cruise ships to Stockholm Harbor.

2. The saffron bread sold at a classic Swedish julmarknad in Stockholm’s old city of Gamla Stan.

3. If Sweden is a fairy tale, which some have proposed in the blogosphere before, then Skansen during Christmas is the height of that fairy tale….

4. The most well known department store in Sweden is Nordiska Kompaniet or “NK.” I had recently heard all about their window displays during the Christmas season, and from very objective sources, so I decided to go find out what all the fuss was about….

5. Expecting nothing more than creative commercialism, what I found was nothing less than a creative and artistic achievement of colors, themes, games, goodies, surprises, decorations, fun and visions of sugar plums dancing in children’s heads. A must during any visit to Stockholm this time of year.

AmateurTraveler.com Visits Sweden (via Linköping)

2007-12-02T10:06:00.000-08:00

A popular and still-growing website and weekly podcast that explores the world of travel and places is AmateurTraveler.com, based in San Jose, California and run by Chris Christensen. I discovered AmateurTraveler.com when seeking information and travel education primarily for my iPod. This podcast has been running for two-and-a-half years now, but this past week journeyed to Sweden for the first time.

I had the pleasure of doing a half-hour long interview with Chris as we discussed travel to and within Sweden including edible reindeer, Swedish holidays, the dark and light of winter and summer, Stockholm, smaller Swedish towns like Linköping and Uppsala and, of course, the wonder and enjoyment of fika.

I want to thank Chris and AmateurTraveler.com for this opportunity and new experience. The best part is that anyone out there reading Linköpinglivin' can check out AmateurTravler.com and listen to episode #115: Sweden!

http://www.amateurtraveler.com/

And if you are visiting Linköpinglivin' for the first time because of AmateurTraveler.com, welcome to this little part of the world.

In the United States, most people would tell you that the Christmas season begins the day after Thanksgiving and increases as December 25th approaches. Well in Sweden, the first day of the Christmas season, which both starts and finishes strong, is the first day of Advent which is always four Sundays before Christmas, today.

"Nu är det Jul igen" in Sweden and nothing like the Gamla Linköping Julmarknad, "Christmas market," to get things started right. For more about a Swedish Christmas, please see my December postings from 2006, including the Top 10 words you must know to experience Christmas in Sweden, including ljusstake, pepparkakor, glögg and Julbord.

Pictures above:

1. AmateurTraveler.com
2. Sean enjoys some fika, despite the size of the picture.
3. Gamla Linköping's Christmas market children's choir.
4. The crowning of Therese, Linköping's Lucia 2007.
5. The Gamla Linköping Advent crowd watches the arrival of Lucia.

Thanksgiving in St. Petersburg

2007-11-25T12:49:00.001-08:00

For the second year in-a-row, my Dad and I needed to come up with an ”alternative” Thanksgiving celebration. While we would have preferred to be home with family eating turkey with the trimmings, this year we chose to travel to a country that for so many years was the opposite of our country, the enemy during the Cold War and has always carried with it an air of mystery and suspicion right up to the present day.

Dad and I chose to go to Russia for many reasons. Primarily, and what I’m coming to realize as the most rewarding part of any travel adventure, we wanted to meet some native Russians, speak with locals about their culture, history and current life and times, as well as experience first-hand what Russia has to offer the curious, open-minded and connection-seeking traveler.

We were not disappointed.

The pictures above tell the story of many parts of our trip:

1. The beginning of a typical Russian winter that we wanted to experience, and did.

2. The State Hermitage Museum located in the former Winter Palace is nothing less than a history of Western (and some Eastern) Civilization, right up there -if not better than-Paris’ Louvre and Madrid’s Prado.

3. The Mariinsky Theater ballet, believed by some to be a notch above the Bolshoy in Moscow – in other words, the very best in all the world.

4. The Church on the Spilled Blood which looks more like the onion-domed churches you find in Moscow, but captures a typical Russian look anyways.

5. Narva Baptist Church friends.

The sight-seeing in any city is exciting and rewarding and offers the tourist a chance to fulfill what the imagination has only seen until that point, but the true meaning of a trip is found in the common interactions with locals and natives who often go out of their way to help you in your clumsy tourist state or want to give you their perspective as opposed to what they suspect you may have heard about them or their country.

I enjoy having my stereotypes and pre-conceived notions dispelled, or just flat-out crushed, by travel. Expecting the Russian people to be tough, stoic, thick-necked and unfriendly, my Dad and I were continually taken aback by the helpfulness, English-speaking friendliness and general good-natured qualities of the native Russians to which our travels led us. Such as:

The workers at our hostel went above and beyond to help our Russian experience be a good one. Extra phone calls to help with a major inconvenience and trips to and from the airport were just the beginning of their hospitality.

Encountering a problem with an ATM was the last thing we needed on a trip to Russia, but when we lost a card, there were no less than eight Russian bank employees with whom we needed to speak and each one was overly generous and willing to help, of course speaking only English. This turned out to be one of the best experiences of our trip as we reflected on the people we had met and how unexpectedly friendly and customer-service (even clueless customer-service) oriented they were.

Finally, through a friend here in Sweden, we were connected with a church in St. Petersburg and with a congregation that was more than welcoming, friendly and interested in us as travelers, Americans and visitors to their small, but genuine community.

Perhaps our experience was unique. Perhaps our Russian exposure was out-of-the-ordinary. Perhaps we just met all the good ones. But I doubt it.

Of course, not everyone’s experience with the Russian people will be like ours. However, as a child of the Cold War, with pre-conceived notions of the Russian people that I was really hoping would be debunked, my trip was a smashing success.

If you’re ready to take on the next traveler challenge, I highly recommend Russia.

Happy belated Thanksgiving, America. Though far away, I am thankful for all of you.

Skål

2007-11-18T11:00:00.000-08:00

1) Do not even think about drinking out of your glass until the proper introductory "Skål" has been conducted.

2) Wait for the host(ess) to begin the Skål.

3) Hold your alcohol-filled glass with your right hand and put your left hand on the table directly in front of you parallel to your chest (to show the others at the table that you have no intention of "going for your blade").

4) After everyone at the table is properly prepared, the host may say a few words as an introduction, while glasses are in the air.

5) At the conclusion of the introduction, the host will declare "Skål!" (pr. "Skoal" for you Yankees) and everyone at the table, glasses remaining in the air, repeats "Skål!"

6) At this point, we have reached a pivotal moment. Will you "clank" glasses like a drunken American or will you resist this tempation of youth and choose the classy, Northern European, all-important and highly respected, simple-but-meaningful eye-contact, with each and every person at the table? Choose wisely. This evening is depending upon your decision.

7) After you have offered a respectful nod with genuine eye-contact to all around the table, you may gently sip from your glass, followed by slowly bringing the glass to your heart and ever so-subtly acknowledging everyone at the table again with a simple glance.

8) Place your glass back on the table, simultaneosly removing your left hand from the table after having successfully resisted the temptation to "go for your blade."

9) After the introductory Skål, any guest or the host may initiate individual Skål tributes throughout the evening by simply calling upon a person around the table by name, gently declaring "Skål," drawing eye-contact with said called upon person, sip, heart, glance, down.

10) Repeat often throughout the evening and often throughout your time in Sweden.

By the way, the word "Skål" comes from the Viking "trading" era. When the Vikings would begin "trading" with a new region, they would celebrate their first "trade" by cutting of the head of their "business partner", opening up their skull ("Skål), taking out the brains, adding alcohol and "gently sipping."

And don't even ask what the Vikings did if you didn't make eye contact....

"Skål!"

Cristina

2007-11-11T12:03:00.000-08:00

Whether you are from Sweden, the United States or, unfortunately, anywhere else in the world, you have probably been touched in some way by cancer. This week we take a little break from the normal Linköpinglivin’ playful and serious exploration of Swedish and American culture in order to honor and remember my friend Cristina, who passed away this past week after a courageous six-year dance with cancer.

Cristina Maria Manieri and I were classmates during graduate school at Miami University in Ohio where we received our degrees in Student Affairs in 2001. Just a few months after our long-awaited graduation in May, at the immortal age of 25, Cristina was diagnosed with breast cancer, beginning a six-year odyssey, which left all of us admiring the courage and spirit of someone who could have just given in to the feelings of injustice, loneliness and despair that facing cancer brings.

The reason you choose education as a field of study and profession (which is the quickest definition of “Student Affairs” for the Swedish reader) is not salary or ease of work, but in order to make a difference. Making a difference in individual and community lives is the professional reward and motivation for anyone remotely connected to the education profession. While beginning to make a difference in the lives of the students with whom she worked, Cristina’s impact on this world took a very different, and arguably more powerful, turn when she was diagnosed with cancer. All of her perseverance, energy, stubbornness, devotion and childlike belief that she would overcome this inspired all of us who watched her laugh at disappointing diagnoses or health setbacks.

Over and over again, we as her friends and family would brace ourselves for the end but would soon realize that, to Cristina, this latest challenge was just the beginning. Her spirit was unmatched and will always be remembered by everyone who knew her. It was a privilege during this past week, as Cristina began to go downhill and the end was near, to be able to remind her that this too was just a beginning and that the rest of us were, in eternity’s eyes, just a few steps behind her.

Cristina passed away on Wednesday, November 7 in her hometown of Hopewell, Virginia, surrounded by family.

The next time you have the chance, do something to help us beat cancer once-and-for-all and, in the mean time, make sure those you love know it.

Here's to Cristina.

Halloween, Alla Helgons Dag, Holidays and Culture

2007-11-05T11:59:00.000-08:00

As I watched the students with whom I work scramble to figure out the answer to what I thought was a simple question, “Does Sweden have Halloween and if so, when is it?,” I began to consider some elements of holidays and culture and, as you might have guessed, a blog entry was born.

After a year of simply observing the holidays of Sweden, an easy and very effective way to get to know a culture and discover what is meaningful in a society, this week I would like to put some words to my thoughts about holidays and traditions in Sweden.

This past week, Swedes celebrated Halloween (sort of) and Alla Helgons Dag or “All Saints Day.” In the U.S., we may hear about All Saints Day, knowing it happens sometime after Halloween (actually the day after) but very few pay close attention to it. Halloween has all the festivity, candy, costumes, attention and purchasing power that the U.S. wants.

One of the two major influences of the Swedish calendar and holidays is the Swedish church, Svenskyrkan, and the recognition of many saints and holy days throughout the year. Some of these days are official holidays (Ascension Day in May) and others are playful remembrances, yet still filled with meaning (Santa Lucia). Alla Helgons Dag in Sweden is celebrated in churches, with choir concerts in cathedrals and by the lighting of candles at the graveside of deceased loved ones (which makes for a beautifully solemn and reflective walk through a cemetery at night). As far as I can tell, Halloween has come in from outside of Sweden and is celebrated mostly by younger people (but not children, mind you – no trick-or-treating as far as I know) as an excuse to dress-up in costumes, eat, drink and be merry.

As for Sweden, the interplay of Halloween and Alla Helgons Dag perhaps serves as a nice little microcosm of what is happening in Swedish society in general. The holiday of Alla Helgons Dag is celebrated as one of the many traditional Svenskyrka, Swedish Church, holidays and Halloween, on the other hand, doesn’t fit quite right and seems to be media-influenced, even American-influenced and perhaps Swedes aren’t sure what to do with it? My research on this topic is woefully poor for the speculation I am attempting, but maybe some of Linköpinglivin’s Swedish friends could help us foreigners out on the whole Halloween-according-to-Sweden thing.

Safe to say, however, that some holidays are uniquely Swedish/Scandinavian and others are here for many different reasons, but just don't feel Swedish...a reflection of a continually changing, small but proud, society in today's world.

By the way, the other “major influence” of the Swedish calendar and holidays is simply the climate, the extremes of being this far north. Light, dark, warm and cold….

Speaking of holidays, make one more check mark under “Sweden as a Fairy Tale land.” Swedes, though not official holidays, celebrate the informal holidays of Kanelbullens Dag ("Cinnamon Bun Day" on October 4) and Våffeldagen ("Waffle Day" on March 25, strangely connected to the day Mary was first "with child").

I love Sweden.

Pictures above:

1. Trevlig Halloween!
2. A zombie and two Swedish angels share in a Colonia “Halloweensittning.”
3. Midsummer in June, in addition to Santa Lucia in December, is a great example of a holiday dictated by climate that means something much more in the extreme climate of the north than closer to the equator where there simply aren't seasons during the year.
4. Shaking the sugar during this year’s Kanelbullens Dag celebration at Colonia.
5. You simply can’t have too many Cinnamon Buns in Sweden. Fika forever!

The Top 10 Things Sweden and Southern California Have in Common

2007-10-29T12:13:00.000-07:00

In an effort to continue the welcome to our new Southern California-based readers of Linköpinglivin’, this week’s entry explores the things that unite two places vastly different from one another, Sweden and Southern California.

Being uniquely qualified to, somehow, capture commonalities between two places as far away in climate as they are in distance (but, relatively speaking, sharing some similar cultural traits as two economically-strong, Western places), perhaps you can indulge me as I share this latest “Top 10” list on Linköpinglivin’:

The Top 10 things Sweden and Southern California have in common are:

10. A love of the sun (some just have it more than others).

9. An IKEA around every corner…

8. A love of coffee (some like it hot, others “iced”).

7. A great diversity of topography (mountains, water, farmland, desert…oh, wait).

6. The presence of reindeer at Christmas (one imaginary, the other real).

5. Beautiful people (but generally way too image-conscious).

4. A love of Swedish Fish (One is a brilliantly-marketed American candy and the other is fish caught in or near Sweden.)

3. A reputation to their geographical neighbors as being laid back, easy-going and politically left of center.

2. They both love their “football” teams…

1. And the #1 thing Sweden and Southern California have in common is:

….is….

....um......

Oh, forget it. Sweden and Southern California have only nine things in common (and even some of those were a stretch). This undoubtedly comes as a relief to people from both places.

Pictures above:

1. Don't be fooled. Sweden has approximately twice the coastline of California. This is Motola, a town near Linköping, on a nice summer's eve.

2. Okay, this is California. Specifically, me diving for a Frisbee in Santa Barbara last weekend.

3. As opposed to the American-based Santa & his reindeer story at Christmastime, Sweden actually has reindeer, and lots of them, in the north (and reindeer is delicious, by the way!).

4. Swedish Fish is an American candy almost as well loved as Ahlgren's Bilar in Sweden, but to the surprise of most Americans, Swedes have never heard of Swedish Fish.

5. One of the best parts of being a foreigner is getting together with other foreigners and sharing a common bond (as well as making fun of Swedes). Represented around the table here is Turkey, France, Singapore, the U.S. and....Sweden.

A Special Welcome to The Outlook Readers (and a trip home in pictures)

2007-10-25T12:11:00.000-07:00

As Linköpinglivin' returns from an unusual mid-Autumn break, we must welcome the readers of the Outlook newspapers in Pasadena, California and soon, my hometown of La Canada, California (both thankfully spared in the recent wildfire devastation throughout Southern California).

The Outlook is a locally-based, hometown newspaper (now in two different neighboring cities) for which I am writing an occasional travel column beginning today. Starting with Sweden (which the Swedish readers of Linköpinglivin' would be very interested in reading - I'm working on getting an online link), I hope to introduce readers to some familiar and not-so-familiar parts of Europe and share some travel advice about being an American abroad.

So if you're a long time reader of this blog about the experience of living in a smaller town in Sweden, then hopefully we will have online access to this and future articles soon. And if you are brand new to Linköpinglivin', welcome to Sweden and please visit on a weekly basis to learn more about this often overlooked, but special part of Northern Europe and the adventures of an American living abroad.

Ironically, I just returned from a two-week swing through my west coast, former hometown cities of Seattle, La Canada and Santa Barbara. As always, this time at home was treasured and every moment was worth the long trip as the pictures attest:

1. What a difference 16 months makes. My cousins Lexi and Hunter as compared to their picture from June '06 on the right-hand side of this page.

2. Celebrating the wedding of a good friend, Chad Fransen (who has Swedish roots!), with my close friends in Seattle (Clay Robinson, Chad, Daniel Hinds, D.J. Del Rosario and Tony Scaringi).

3. A reunion of college friends where we went to school in Santa Barbara, California, a place as close to paradise as you will find in the USA (okay, besides Hawaii). Left to right: Jason Sunukjian, Jason Berns, Matt Gazaway, Dan Deeble and me in front of the famous Santa Barbara mission on yet another perfect day in "SB."

4. The Swedish summertime game of KUBB is introduced in the United States!

5. A competitive introductory game of KUBB lasts well over two hours and successfully adds one more Swedish product to the long list of Swedish items loved by Americans (IKEA, Volvo, ABBA, Pippi Longstocking and KUBB...).

The weekly commitment of "a new post by Monday night" should return to Linköpinglivin' this coming Monday. Good to be back. Vi ses snart!

Why It's So Cool to Live in Linköping - Part 1: Domkyrka

2007-10-08T13:18:00.000-07:00

Some of you have figured it out. “Linköpinglivin’” may be a catchy title, but we all know this blog is about life in Sweden and sometimes even expands throughout Europe. In an effort to be true to the title, and to pass on some love and credit where love and credit are due, this week commences a five-part occasional series on what makes Linköping a special place to live. No better place to start than the undeniable heart of the city’s history and culture, Linköping’s Domkyrka (Cathedral).

To American eyes, the Domkyrkan is a quintessential example of historical Europe, a stunning architectural and historical edifice that simply defies what we would have ever thought could be built in the 1200s. To Swedish eyes, the Domkrykan may very well be taken for granted as one more historical icon in a part of the world with many historical icons. My hope is that the Domkrykan captures the imagination and wonder of Europe for the American and that the Swede takes a moment to re-consider (and even re-visit with fresh eyes?) this remarkable achievement.

From far away, off in the distance, as someone is approaching Linköping, the Domkrykan marks the spot, the heart of Linköping’s otherwise humble historical district. As one stands at the entrance and looks up, the surprise that this cathedral is in a town like Linköping reveals a naïve historical perspective, that only the biggest towns have the biggest toys. Linköping, being on a central road of both north-south and east-west commerce before and after Sweden’s dynastic era in the Middle Ages, was a natural location for pilgrims seeking a place to pay homage. The first limestones were laid in 1230 (1230!), and the initial church finally was completed in the mid 1500s. Throughout Europe, the townspeople who laid cathedrals’ foundations knew they would never see the completion in their lifetime, nor would the six generations after them! Apparently instant gratification is a recent concept…

Over that period of time of building, a lot changed in Europe. What was Romanesque architecture (rounded arches, large supports inside) became Gothic (pointed arches, outer buttress support) with a small element of Early English (decorative), as well. What was Catholic became Protestant and has ended up to resemble the Anglican Church of England more than anything else (the Swedish State Church, Svenskyrkan, is officially Lutheran).

The sense of awe and wonder that Americans seek when visiting Europe is not lost on the Domkyrkan. The second largest cathedral in Sweden (Uppsala – north of Stockholm), the Domkyrkan can be enjoyed any time of day, open and free to the public, and is still used for daily services of Vespers, occasional Mass and Sunday services in the evenings as well as visiting instrumental and choir concerts. As for attendance, only 5% of Swedes attend church regularly, but predictably the Christmas service is the high point of the calendar for the Domkrykan. Personally, the Santa Lucia concert celebrating light in the middle of darkness on December 13th was simply the most magical thing I witnessed my first year in not just Sweden, but all of Europe.

Whether visiting for spiritual, historical or cultural reasons, whether sharing the faith of the people who constructed it or simply curious, the Domkyrkan is one of many highlights throughout Linköping that will be covered in the coming weeks and months on Linköpinlivin’.

Finally, this month marks the seventh anniversary of my Grandmother Dorothy’s passing in October of 2000. Prior to coming to Sweden, I read Grandma’s trip diary from her Scandinavian tour back in 1982:

“After leaving Stockholm we went to Copenhagen stopping in Linköping to hear a concert in the cathedral there.”

If only Grandma had known that 24 years later, her then 9-year old grandson would be living and working in that city of the cathedral, doing his own trip journaling about the Domkyrkan. She would be delighted with this experience, as am I. Here’s to Grandma, the Domkyrkan and Linköping.

Pictures above:

1. Who would ever think that something this colossal would be found in quaint Linköping?
2. Inside the Domkrykan, the nave.
3. Pointed arches and buttresses (sometimes “flying”) reveal the Gothic architecture of the High Middle Ages (1000 – 1500).
4. The photographer’s favorite angle of Linköping’s Domkyrka.
5. A picture taken from Linköping University captures the stature of the Domkyrkan in comparison to the rest of Linköping.

Neutrality

2007-10-01T12:31:00.001-07:00

Every-once-in-a-while, I come across a subject and think, “Oh yeah, how could I have overlooked that one?” and thus, a new Linköpinglivin’ topic is born. Sweden, as one of the two most famous neutral countries in the West (Switzerland), is proudly neutral, proudly absent of war for over a hundred years (which makes their Viking ancestors turn over in their graves, I’m sure) and I have some thoughts about all this non-violence, non-war, neutrality stuff.

First of all, a brief description about what “neutrality” means. A country that has declared itself neutral means that it will not initiate or participate in any act of war. What it does not mean is that it won’t defend itself if attacked. Neutrality also includes not allowing other countries military access or bases and other stipulations regarding alignment. Sweden does indeed have a military and would, I suspect, defend itself valiantly if attacked, but the Swedish stance of neutrality has created peace throughout this land for over a hundred years – something not many countries in the world can claim.

The advantages of neutrality are obvious. No war. Also, the ability to remain outside of any alignment obligations during any lead up to war. Politically, it completely changes the discussion, negotiation and position for government officials, diplomats, ambassadors and representatives. 100 years of peace. Enough said, right?

Well…

As impressive as this peaceful reality is, as always with things political and global, it’s just not that simple. In discussions I have had with various Swedes about this topic, there are clearly some disadvantages to a stance of neutrality, though no one is questioning that this political stance is right for Sweden.

First and foremost, not fighting Hitler poses the obvious and massive moral question. Despite their neutrality, it is well known that Sweden gave safe haven to Jews from throughout Scandinavia and participated in other measures believed to help the Allied forces. However, it is also well known that Nazi sympathizers throughout Sweden (of which there were many throughout non-German Europe – power is frighteningly intoxicating) provided advantage to the Axis powers, as well. Perhaps some native Swedes with some historical perspective on this can share more in depth about the legacy of World War II, neutrality and Sweden.

Another disadvantage is the self-deception, particularly in young people, that accompanies a successful (read: no war) neutral stance. I get the distinct impression that many people here think they are somehow above war. That other, less civilized, countries are the ones that have to resort to war because they cannot figure it out diplomatically or as adults. After initially questioning the practicality and moral virtue of “neutrality,” I definitely believe it is important to have neutral countries that are willing to intercede from their position on behalf of many other nations when the time calls for it, but make no mistake, Sweden can be successfully neutral because other countries choose to fight. These countries working together with Sweden is a good thing, but neutrality is a convenience that only a few specially placed and specific types of countries can or should enjoy.

Another disadvantage of a neutral stance, similar to the first, is the message that is sent to all Swedish citizens. Neutrality is easily mistaken for isolation and isolation is easily mistaken for non-participation. And non-participation in today’s world is simply not an option. I am often concerned that Swedes, particularly the young people I work with, are satisfied letting the rest of the world just do it’s own thing and as long as everything is okay up here in Sweden, then all is well. Does neutrality inevitably lead to disengagement? No. However, there can definitely be an underlying sense of isolated arrogance up here that is perhaps one of the casualties of a neutral stance.

Sweden is well equipped to be a world leader in so many ways, and many of those ways Sweden does indeed rise to that challenge, but would there be a greater nationwide sense of responsibility and engagement without the neutrality tag?

I’ve said far too much to exclude my qualifier of “I’m no geo-political expert.” These are simply concerns, observations and considerations meant to provoke some thoughts and maybe even discussion on such a vital and all-important topic on Linköpinglivin’ (much less, in Sweden).

For those that are interested in more about the current flood of Iraqi immigrants into Sweden, the International Herald Tribune (the global daily English newspaper published by the New York Times) provided an interesting article last week which also included some accurate summations of the Swedish character:

http://www.iht.com/articles/2007/09/26/america/edcohen.php

Pictures above? What kind of pictures capture “neutrality?” I don’t know so I posted some pictures of me throwing axes and swinging from a 40-foot high trapeze (and the students who joined me) this past weekend. Here's to controlled and harnessed violence in a non-violent, neutral country.

Dating, Relationships and Marriage in Sweden

2007-09-24T12:41:00.000-07:00

From Sweden to the USA (and everywhere in between and all around), everyone’s favorite topic makes an appearance on Linköpinglivin’. I had to wait until I mastered this topic - you know became a professional at it…

As a foreigner, the first thing you’re told about Sweden and the subject of dating is “Women are self-sufficient – Don’t open that door! Don’t pay for that (whole) meal.” And while one must be prudent and thoughtful about one’s view of women in Sweden, certainly in the dating realm, I have found that Swedish women are like women everywhere. Although yes indeed self-sufficient, they certainly appreciate a thoughtful and, dare I say, chivalrous, significant other. They just want you to know they don’t need you ….or so I’ve been told.

Regarding marriage, well, let’s just say that Frank Sinatra’s famous song must not have quite made it all the way to Sweden, because love and marriage apparently do not always go together in Sweden. One of the things that struck me as I was becoming familiar with Swedish society is the Swedish (and I have heard European) penchant for long-term relationships with everything but the formal, legalized marriage. I know multiple couples who have been together for years, same house, same budget, two kids, everything looks like a marriage, but then and only then, maybe will they decide to actually and officially tie the knot. This scenario has described three of my colleagues in just the past year.

Unlike the U.S., there is no extra tax or government-motivated reason for marriage. As I understand it, whether you are living together, married or single, your taxes are the same.

For those who do choose to have a wedding ceremony, they are predictably understated in Sweden (especially in comparison to the U.S.). The Swedish cultural norm of “don’t draw attention to oneself” even influences the bride and groom who often choose to have a very small wedding with just the closest of family and friends in attendance. Ceremonies are usually held in a church, but often in a natural setting consistent with the Swedish love of nature. And, while legal and recognized since 1995, homosexual marriage is performed as a civil ceremony.

And something interesting to read for the Americans, just this past week a church in Sweden denied the request of a bride to have her father walk her down the aisle and "give her away" saying that this is just a tradition brought over by American-made television and very "unswedish." Read: http://www.thelocal.se/8571/

Swedish equality: Foreign men, be on alert!

As for my personal experience contributing to this topic of dating and relationships in Sweden? I’ll just say that if you ever read about it on the blog, you’ll know I’ve officially lost it in Sweden!

Finally the pictures above, which I don’t have to stretch too much to make them fit into this topic:

1. Stockholm’s Stadshuset or “city hall.” Some choose to get married here and the ceremony is often held in under one minute…

2. & 3. Strollers, continuing a theme on Linköpinglivin’, are everywhere in Sweden. This summer I found two curious places for strollers, at least to the eyes of a foreigner. Amongst canons at Kalmar’s castle and on the beach in Öland, literally almost a surfing stroller. Only in Sweden.

See you next week.

Language of Love & Love of Language

2007-09-17T14:08:00.001-07:00

Answer A: French.

Answer B: A description of my continual fascination with the non-American approach to communicating with the world.

A collision of norms is something that happens when one travels, much less moves, to a foreign country. To a European, this week’s Linköpinglivin’ topic will be old news and boring because everyone speaks at least two languages - that's just normal. However, to the American, 98% of whom speak confidently in only one language, the topic of language can be filled with amazement. During my time in Sweden, I continue to be impressed by the ability of Europeans to speak multiple languages and I have two illustrations that "speak" to this ability:

Illustration 1:
Last winter I called a friend of mine from Germany who was an au pair in Linköping. Judith was already talking on the home phone line to another friend who is German and I was on her cell phone. Meanwhile, as the responsible au pair, Judith was also speaking with and taking care of the Swedish children with whom she was living. Envisioning this scene, I clarified, “So, Judith, you’ve got me on your cell phone speaking English, Stine on the home phone speaking German and you’re speaking with the kids in Swedish all at once?” Matter of factly and without sharing my impressed tone, Judith responded “yes.”

Just another day in Europe….

Illustration 2:
Sara is someone I met this weekend. Speaking with her in English and knowing she attended a Swedish-speaking school, I knew Sara spoke at least two languages. However, Sara had recently moved from Lebanon where she had become quite comfortable with Arabic and, somewhere along the line, Sara had also picked up French. Sara knew four languages quite comfortably. Sara is 12 years old!

Admittedly, this is impressive even by European standards. I walked away humbled as my Swedish language acquisition is currently stagnant.

Swedish elementary school students begin learning English in 3rd grade. They begin a third language (usually German, French or Spanish) in 9th grade. When they graduate from high school they know at least three languages and are well equipped to learn a lot more. Impressive.

As Americans, we miss out on an enriching cultural experience when our only language learning in high school consists of merely fulfilling requirements. There’s just rarely the motivation to dive into a new language when one knows they probably will never use it outside of school. Here in Europe, they know they will use it, and enjoy using it, most of their lives. Perhaps with globalization current American students can learn, knowing they will actually use the language, and not as something to fulfill an empty requirement in order to graduate….

The last of my expected visitors were here this past weekend. Two former students at the University of Washington, Zach Tobin and Niki Iglesias, concluded a European trip of the big three (London, Paris, Rome), Prague and Linköping (!), yes, and also Stockholm. “Tack” for making the effort to come all the way up here to the Arctic, Zach and Niki. It was a pleasure to have you in Sverige. On the subject of language, by the way, Zach took Russian in college for no particular reason other than an appreciation of the culture. Nice work, Zach.

Pictures above:
1. A summertime dusk picture of Stockholm harbor taken by my Dad.
2. The biggest Dalarna Horse you will find in the world is in Skansen - that's my cousin, Ashley, too.
3. They have miniature golf in Sweden. It's the hardest miniature golf on the planet. I got a 10 on this hole.
4. Zach and Niki in Stora Torget, Linköping.
5 Zach and Niki discover American-sized kanelbullar (cinnamon buns) in Stockholm's Gamla Stan.

More Swedish Fun Facts (and another Crayfish party)

2007-09-10T07:00:00.000-07:00

It has recently been brought to my attention in one form or another that Linköpinglivin' could be a very helpful resource for a foreigner, particularly American, who is coming to live in Sweden for a period of time or forever. With that in mind, I've started to think of a few things that I have perhaps overlooked, but that need some mention, if I ever want this blog to be a legitimate resource for the naïve foreigner looking to make it past their first queue line in Sweden. For the rest of you, consider these some more Swedish fun facts "not important enough to have a full blog entry":

1. What happens when you mix Scandinavian equality, love of nature, a small population and one of the largest square km. countries in all of Europe? Allemansrätten or "Every man's right," which every Swede knows, loves and uses, states that you may sleep for one night anywhere in the countryside or islands of Sweden, yes even inside of fences on owned property, without permission as long as you don't disturb anyone and leave everything as you found it. But if you want to stay two nights, well you're just gonna have to ask permission!

2. I'm no expert on this subject, but Swedish male fashion, with it's liotard-tight jeans, skin-tight shirts and "fo-hawk," which probably comes from the French word "faux" or "fake" and I just like to call the "Swedish mullet," leaves a lot to be desired...I'll try to get a good picture of this someday soon for Linköpinglivin'.

3. If you submitted a tax return in Sweden, which of course everyone should, then it is public record and anyone can look up how much you submitted, thus being able to approximate one's salary and worth. This shocked me for a society as private as Sweden.

4. Sweden is a country of systems and order. When you go into almost any retail shop or business that expects multiple customers at once, you must obey the almighty queue - immediately take a nummerlapp in order to stand in the queue line. Eventually your number will be called, but if you ever want to piss off a Swede, just ignore the queue and step up to the front of the line. The Swedish queue system is always one of the first things a foreigner must learn, and also one of the first things discussed when foreigners are making fun of Sweden. Trust me, I know.

5. The U.S. often laments the two-party stranglehold on politics by the Republicans and Democrats (I guess there is also the Green Party). In Sweden, there are seven different parties, but in the end, most align themselves with one of the equivalents of the conservative (Moderate) or liberal (Social Democrat) parties. Last year, the Moderates won a victory for the first time in over 50 years. The next election is in three years.

6. Every Swede knows that "Sweden's most bought car" is not a Volvo, SAAB, Audi, BMW, Mercedes or any other manufactured car, but Sweden's beloved "Ahlgrens Bilar" marshmellow/gummy candy that no Swede is able to resist when offered... kind of like the American's love for gummy candy, but much more love.

http://www.ahlgrensbilar.com/

7. Once again, systems and order. After learning about the almighty queue, all foreigners must go obtain their personnummer or "personal number." Much more than the Social Security number in the U.S., you need your personal number at all times in all places in Sweden if you hope to accomplish anything. Swedes are fond of saying that they "don't have names, just numbers," but unlike in the U.S. where we are concerned about eventually becoming controlled by these numbers, it appears that Swedes actually kind of like it!

8. In the U.S., hot dogs are looked down upon as unhealthy, cheap, bad-for-you food (except when at a baseball game, on a national holiday in the spring or summer or on a Manhattan or Chicago street corner). However, it seems that in Sweden and much of Europe, corner-bought street food, and especially hot dogs, are perfectly acceptable and permissable, not looked down upon or considered socially ignorant. This is one of the few ways in which Sweden is like Manhattan.

9. Unlike the stereotype, it simply isn't true that all Swedes are blonde. However, it is true that all Swedish children are blonde. It's really quite remarkable. And we're not just talkin' light hair or sandy blonde, it's called toe-head, almost-white blonde and Swedish children are all that! I think the cutest kids on earth are little black kids, but Swedish kids and their shiny blonde hair are a close second.

10. Just in case you were wondering, Fall has hit Sweden. Almost on cue, as August turned to September, the temperature dropped 20 degrees (10 Celsius) and all the shorts and shirts were put away until Valborgsmässoafton.

Pictures above:

1. This past week, I celebrated my second Kräftfiske party. Unlike last year, this year we successfully captured hundreds of live crayfish. For more on my thoughts about Swedes and their beloved crayfish, see the Linköpinglivin' entry from about a year ago.
2. A colleague, Cecilia, says "Hej" to a crayfish.
3. It's not Deadliest Catch, but it was fun.
4. Songs, crayfish bibs, plenty of food and drink and cameras are all part of a Swedish Crayfish party.
5. My summary of this delightful Swedish festivity.

See you next week.

Diversity, Homogeneity and Race in Sweden: Part 1

2007-09-03T10:34:00.001-07:00

When people ask me what is the most negative thing about Sweden, I do not reply with “the darkness” or “the winter” or typical answers you might hear from a foreigner (a Southern Californian, no less) not used to being this far north. As I was asked this question towards the end of my first year here, I found myself answering with another bi-product of geographical inconvenience: the homogeneity of Sweden (and to be fair, all of Scandinavia).

As the world knows, diversity in general and race in particular are two elements that greatly impact virtually every corner of the United States. The great American experiment of being a homeland for anyone and everyone, from all lands, continents and countries, is still undergoing its growing pains and almost-daily events are witness to the good, the bad and the ugly about a country with so much difference and diversity. And of course, other countries face similar challenges of bringing differences among people together.

In what will be the first of possibly several ongoing parts in Linköpinglivin’, I would like to take a closer look at the issue of diversity in Sweden.

I broach this subject with trepidation because of the obviously charged subject matter, but also because I have not done the adequate “research,” i.e., talked to numerous people about the topic of diversity, good and bad, in Sweden. There’s been some discussion, but most of this is based on observation and conscious and unconscious assumptions that may or may not be valid. Please feel free to add your input, whether a native Swede, fellow foreigner or immigrant, or interested American. For purposes of brevity, I will focus more on race in Sweden than among other differences among people.

Sweden simply does not have the diversity of people to the same extent that other countries do. This makes perfect geographical sense. Though immigrants flood through Sweden’s borders during times of war in other lands, Balkans in the late 90s and Iraqis-in-droves now – 22,000 just in 2006 compared with America’s 7,000 - the overall racial homogeneity of Sweden remains the same. Most everyone is Caucasian, most everyone’s parents are Swedish and, like all cultures, there is certainly a way of doing things that all people from other lands must learn.

I come from the assumption that we as human beings are drawn to and trust that which is similar to us. The opposite of this is, as human beings, we tend to avoid or even fear that which is different from us. While Sweden is well known for being welcoming of foreigners because of helpful immigration laws and social policies, this has not impacted the overall sameness of Sweden. In fact, considering Jante Law, “sameness” is a very admirable trait in Swedish culture. Swedes don’t like to stand out in a crowd, the houses and neighborhoods throughout the country all look alike, dress is very similar and not drawing attention to oneself is respected.

But can a society that is so similar in appearance be confident that all people, no matter the racial and cultural background, are accepted and have the same opportunities as everyone else? If two people, one Iraqi and one Swede, apply for a job with virtually equal qualifications, but one “looks” more Swedish among a work group of similar-looking people, does this not, in the end, play a major role in deciding who gets the job? This is the kind of question often being asked in America and I ask it here in Sweden.

One of the characteristics of the U.S. that I have heard here is that “Americans are racist.” While there is ample evidence of this on one level, I am led to ask the question (hopefully in an educational manner and not in defense) in response, “Are we sure that Swedes are not racist, as well?” How do we know when so few opportunities for finding out are presented because people are so similar in appearance and behavior?

I’m the first to say that there remains a strong element of racism in the U.S. Sometimes unconscious and sometimes blatant, but how is the question of race understood and answered in a place so homogeneous?

In speaking with one black person in Sweden, in response to the question of whether he has felt treated any differently because of race, he responded that he has not, which was an impressive statement about the Swedes. Yet this was just one person’s opinion.

There’s no way to cover it all in a blog of the same length of my normal entries, so I have posed a few questions and am looking for some responses. More on this topic is sure to come in the near future.

Here’s a fun fact: There’s almost no Jews in Sweden. Synagogues are very hard to come by and Hannukah is completely invisible in December. Yep, lots to consider in a part of the world that, geographically, culturally and historically, wrestles with questions of diversity much differently than what I’m used to in the U.S.

And one more comment related: Everyone in Sweden and some of you in the U.S. have heard about the recent cartoon controversy in Sweden where a Swedish newspaper published a cartoon of the Prophet Muhammed. This created quite a stir in the Muslim community from here to Iran. You might remember the riots and anger that followed a similar cartoon in Denmark in 2005. What happens when a cultural hallmark of the West, freedom of expression, collides with the sacred religious tradition of 1.3 billion people? It’s a big question on many levels, continuing to present itself in many ways, but recently the Prime Minister of Sweden, Fredrik Reinfeldt, stood courageously on the side of protecting freedom of expression. At a time in history when the West dances gingerly around all questions of Western values vs. Muslim tradition, this was a valiant stand. Though certainly not in agreement with the portrayal of the Prophet Muhammad in this cartoon, I think we disrespect ourselves and others when we break our values of freedom to appease certain cultural/religious traditions. The same day, there was a news story on U.S. television about recent “art” that compared Osama Bin Laden to Jesus. Not a word came out from even the most fundamental Christians to somehow abolish art or kill the artist. It’s somehow not acceptable in the West for government officials to come out and say publicly that various Muslim traditions run totally contrary and are not acceptable with our Western values and freedoms, though everyone deep down knows this to be true. Kudos to Reinfeldt. Find out more about this at The Local website link found on the right-hand side of this blog. Please share your thoughts.

Pictures:
1. A big group of similar-looking Swedes.
2. Another big group of similar-looking Swedes.
3. Last weekend, my brother and I surprised my Dad in Paris – though it may look like it, this photo was not staged. Just the perfect location to reveal the surprise.
4. Three Whiting boys in Paris – France will never be the same.
5. Sean vs. Escargot. I won and am now a big fan of France’s most famous appetizer.

Skansen - All of Sweden, Then & Now, Just Around the Corner

2007-08-28T10:35:00.000-07:00

One of the most impressive and often perplexing nuances about Swedish society is the seamless marriage of the old and the modern. At the same time that the Swedes lead the world on progressive social policies, they are also attributed with the world’s first outdoor museum, one dedicated to history and tradition.

In 1891, in an effort to preserve their heritage as older times started to become new, Swedish officials created Skansen, an outdoor cultural heritage museum (an idea that would eventually catch on throughout Europe) that no trip to Stockholm is complete without. Skansen is made up of a 1700s/1800s collection of actual shops, schools, churches, farmhouses and cafes which were laboriously transported, piece by piece, from their original locations throughout Sweden to their current location at Stockholm’s Skansen.

Perched on a hill overlooking the rest of the city, Skansen’s geographical layout reflects that of Sweden’s: Northern Sweden cultural sites in the upper part of Skansen, Central Sweden artifacts in the middle of Skansen, etc. Helpful guides, shopkeepers, farmers and homemakers, all dressed in period-attire, answer questions, make presentations and welcome visitors in three and sometimes four or five different languages. Add to this the animals from various parts of Sweden (moose, reindeer, seals, bears, wolverines) as well as wood-carving, glass-blowing, pottery-making, baking and other traditional Swedish handcrafting examples, and the essence of Sweden is suddenly at your fingertips.

For the wide-eyed, romanticizing American, Skansen is a jewel of Europe.

In typical Swedish fashion, Skansen, with all of its historical merriment and traditional feel, is also a popular destination for current culture and excitement. Arguably the most popular place of attendance in Sweden during all of the festivals and holidays, Skansen also hosts the summertime weekly musical show, broadcasted live and always the most-watched program of the week throughout Sweden, Allsang På Skansen (or "All Sing at Skansen"), of which there is a picture above.

Skansen is a part of the natural island of Djurgården on the east side of Stockholm’s inner city. With my slew of visitors over the past year, it’s been my privilege to roam about Skansen seven times, in all four seasons of the year – you just can’t host travelers to Stockholm and overlook Skansen in good conscience. Nothing beats the summertime at Skansen, but a delicate winter’s snow and low crowds gives the winter at Skansen an appeal all its own.

When you come to Sweden, if you can’t quite make it throughout this entire country, a visit to Skansen can give you a pretty good impression of the Swedes and their history. A successful mix of old and modern - Sweden in a thimble - Skansen is well worth the trip. Yes, even seven times in one year (my first year in Seattle I went up the Space Needle 11 times while hosting visitors...).

And save your “Sean, you should work for the Skansen marketing team” comments!

A Swedish "Sommar" (and a few summer visitors)

2007-08-20T12:59:00.000-07:00

Summer.

"Sweden’s summer is the best day of the year.” –Anonymous Swede

Though this quote is not meteorologically accurate, it may seem so to a Swede, especially after this year’s summer in Sweden, but we’ll get to that.

As we delve into our fourth and final Swedish season of the year on Linköpinglivin', summer has already been referenced multiple times, usually in the form of wild anticipation, because the summer in Sweden is everything summer is dreamed about in legend and myth: Warm, but not hot. Cooler at night, but not cold. Waterfront festivities. A countryside in bloom. Rest for the weary. Fun for the family. Setting aside worries and cares (which for a Swede says a lot about the power of summer!). There is so much light, and at all times of day, some inexperienced foreigners may actually tend to forget the always-looming dark days just around the corner. Average temperature ranges from 18 – 26 degrees Celsius (68 – 78 Fareinheit) with usually a nice and soft water-driven breeze coming from any number of lakes, rivers, seas or canals running throughout this beautiful country.

Pick any one of your overused-but-always-appropriate adjectives for this country: charming, delightful, playful, enchanting, captivating, magical. Summer is Sweden at its very best. A Swede knows better than to take for granted any days of summer. This summer, especially.

Upon my return from what was, admittedly, a perfect three weeks of weather on the west coast of the United States, my conversations with various Swedes around here always included some allusion to the fact that - while summer vacation is always good - this year’s weather has been really bad. Rain has a tendency to dampen, but never totally ruin, a Swedish summer and storms have been ever-present throughout the country the past few months. Only in the last week has the wet weather let up enough, and the warm air returned enough, for Swedes to begin to feel that their summer didn’t turn out too bad after all.

One of the original promises made to all of my visitors, ones who have usually gone way out of their way to make it to Scandinavia, is to be forever acknowledged and remembered in the blogosphere, or “blog lore” as I like to call it. My Dad (John) and cousin (Ashley) made the trip to Sweden in late July for about 10 days. Stockholm during the Tall Ships Celebration, Linköping for some Valla Minigolf and Öland/Kalmar were their highlights. In addition, this past weekend, Mike, Tom and Jenne (three former students, now friends) from Seattle were in town to enjoy the elegance and grandeur of a Stockholm summer weekend, then Jenne even made it down to Linköping where the party always is! The pictures above capture not only the brilliance of a Swedish summer (on a good day), but the enjoyment of friends and family re-united in a truly unexpected part of the world.

As Sweden’s summer comes to a slow, but inevitable close, as school begins again (Welcome to all 175 new Coloniaborna!), as vacations cease and responsibilities return, another academic and agricultural year in Sweden commences.

And keep those comments on the new look blog coming. See you next week.

Pictures above:

1. Linköpings Trädgårdsföreningen (a.k.a., "The Park") welcomes summertime revelry.

2. Ashley and Dad join me on a cannon at Skansen overlooking Stockholm's old city.

3. Tom, Mike, Jenne and I across from Stadshuset on Riddarholmen.

4. A late-July sun sets over Kungsträdgården in Stockholm.

5. The heart of Stockholm's inner-city, taken from the top of Fritt-Fall at Gröna Lund (this is a "free fall" tower at an amusement park in Stockholm) just before a 10-story plummet back to earth. Taking this picture was a thrill, to say the least.

"Tillbaka till Sverige" - A Second Year in Sweden

2007-08-11T12:31:00.000-07:00

Generally, though Linköpinglivin' is about my experiences in Sweden and abroad, I try to focus on the people, places, cultures and events more than myself. However, some time in early June, I was really longing to not be a foreigner. I just needed a break.

My first year in Sweden was outstanding and I can hardly wait to see what the second year will bring. When it came time to return (late June), I was more-than-ready for familiar places and language, but most of all the refreshing reconnections with people. So, the pictures above are a tribute to a few of these people. Thanks to everyone from Seattle to Santa Barbara to La Canada who welcomed me back with open arms and lots of questions about life in Sweden. My summer at home will not soon be forgotten.

However....

I have returned to Sweden with renewed excitement and energy, ready for a second year in this delightful land. The normal twinge of homesickness felt at all previous returns was replaced by a longing to see people here, experience again the Swedish summer and continue with everything that I had merely established during the first year. "Tillbaka till Sverige!"

Linköpinglivin' started as a means by which to keep people at home informed, perhaps even educated, about Sweden and my experiences. Soon it also became a forum for Swedes to take another look at their own country (or at least be entertained by the musings of one naïve foreigner). Eventually, for me, it became a cherished outlet for reflection and writing, a place to keep inventory and all-important awareness of the many experiences of living away from home.

After some thought and pondering, my goal for the second year of Linköpinglivin' (in addition to my overall life) is to take things a step deeper. Deeper into the history of Sweden and how it is relevant for today, deeper into the culture of the Swedes and how this impacts foreigners and immigrants both in and out of Sweden and deeper into the experience of life abroad for an American. What was breadth will hopefully become depth. What was only observations will become considerations. What was looking in from the outside can hopefully become the view from the inside. What was scratching the surface can hopefully become a greater understanding and appreciation for a unique culture and opportunity to be a part of that culture for a little while. With this, all three previously-mentioned Linköpinglivin' goals can continue to be achieved, but with a fresh start and new perspectives.

At least this is the hope....

A good start to this is the fresh design, color and layout of Linköpinglivin' - please tell me what you think. Welcome or welcome back to Linköpinglivin'. Let's do this again.

Pictures above:
1. No more than two hours after landing in Seattle, I was in the front row at a good old-fashioned American baseball game (with college buddy, Dave Hess). What a way to beat jet-lag!
2. Left-to-right: Todd (you know him as THAT brother), Dad - John, Uncle - Pete and me with beautiful summertime Seattle in the background.
3. A reunion with some former students from the University of Washington.
4. Tivoli Gardens in Copenhagen during a seven-hour layover on the way back to Sweden.
5. More of Tivoli, Europe's most enchanting and famous amusement park.

Once Upon a Time, there was...Sweden.

2007-06-28T11:08:00.001-07:00

Once upon a time, there was a land (seemingly) far, far away from all other lands.

In this land there was no war, (almost) everyone had work, all basic human needs were met, vacation was plentiful, equality was strong and family was cherished.

This land was mostly forest and mostly water at the same time. This land had snow when you expect to have snow and sun when you expect to have sun, mostly. The people of this land treasured nature and took great care of the part of the earth they had been given.

In this land, the color of hair was blonde, especially among children as they were chauffeured in their luxury strollers. In this land, parents were prized and their omnipresent offspring were sacred.

Music, dancing, drink, food, family, friends, holidays and the seasons of the year were celebrated with more enthusiasm than other lands, just as the daily coffee and pastry break was a little more enjoyed.

During one holiday, a young girl wore a crown of candles. During another, crayfish was the centerpiece. During another, nationwide bonfires blazed and during yet another, family and friends danced and sang around, well, an important part of human “progress.”

This land had no shortage of ice cream and one could hear the ice cream man’s familiar tune in all seasons. Though food and drink were important, consumption and indulgence were moderate (except for holidays). In this land, the bicycle was the preferred mode of transportation.

The people of this land were beautiful and there was a rhythm to their language not to be duplicated by people from any other land, no matter how hard they tried…

This land was great to visit, but even better to live.

Once Upon a Time, there was…Sweden.

Early on during my time here, a fellow foreigner had these words for me:

“Sean, Sweden is like a fairy tale. Everyone is blonde, everyone is taken care of. They dance around the maypole during summer. It’s just like a little fairy tale.” Though every Swede has a long list of things wrong with Sweden and though not everyone is blonde and though this foreigner can name a number of things he doesn’t like about Sweden, it’s hard to argue with the above story. However, unlike a fairy tale, Sweden and the Swedes are sensible, grounded and based in reality. Sweden is not a dream come true, but the fairy tale analogy is not that far-fetched.

Yes, this may be romanticized, but anyone who has been reading Linköpinglivin’ gets the point. This is one “jättefint” country and it’s a pleasure to live and work here. It’s also been a pleasure to help others come to understand some things about Sweden and my experience through this weekly online ritual.

And not to overlook anything, thank you to those of you who have faithfully or occasionally read this blog and a big thank you to those of you who have contributed important information and enjoyment to this blog, especially my outstanding brother, Todd, who has made this form of communication all the more fun and often, as you know, stole the show…

Tomorrow I get on a plane bound for Seattle and, in true Swedish fashion, will be taking the month of July off...from the blogosphere.

During the second year, Linköpinglivin’ might look a little different, so come back and find out.

Glad sommar.
Trevlig semester.

See you in August.

Midsommar

2007-06-24T11:17:00.000-07:00

Midsommar. This is music (and dance and food and drink and celebration) to Swedish ears.

Inarguably the pinnacle of all Swedish holidays, the Midsummer celebration in Sweden (and other parts of Scandinavia and Europe) continues the theme of marking the various seasons of the year with holidays and long-held traditions (Lucia, Valborg, etc.). This past Friday night, "we" welcomed the coming summer during the longest days of the year. Welcome, at long last, summer.

A very popular question for me during this past year in Sweden was "Were you here for Midsummer last year?" Upon hearing my response, I often received a comment or look of "You don't know Sweden until you've been here for Midsummer." Arriving last year on July 6th, it's been a long wait, but my initiation to Sweden is now complete. Welcome, at long last, summer.

Whether a traditional or modern celebration, Midsummer is best celebrated in the Swedish countryside with family and friends, preferrably near a lake and always with the classic Midsummer meal of pickled herring, new and fresh potatoes with dill, soured cream and raw red onion, some sort of grilled meat or fish and dessert is always Svensk jordgubbar or "Swedish strawberries" with cream. Drink? Well, anyone who's been reading Linköpinglivin this past year with even mild attention can guess that schnapps and other forms of Swedish popular beverages are the drink of choice for Midsummer. Welcome, at long last, summer.

Another important part of the Midsummer celebration (and seen above) is the Midsummerstång or "maypole" which, let's just say, reflects the "fertility" aspect of the Midsummer celebration. Once the maypole is secured, traditional Swedish song and dance emerges leading to all kinds of summer fun, magic, love, dreams, hopes and all things loved during summertime in Sweden. Originally a holiday to commemorate John the Baptist, Midsummer became more pagan in nature sometime during the 1500s when Sweden adopted many of the traditions from another form of the holiday held in Germany. Many myths, legends and stories accompany the Midsummer celebration, all centered on summertime themes of agricultural prosperity, rest and renewal and dreams of future love and matrimony. Welcome, at long last, summer.

My first Midsummer was spent with literally thousands of others at a conference appropriately held in the Swedish countryside. As with most of my Swedish experiences this year, my role was more observer than participant, taking pictures and reveling in the moment, often wondering how in the world I got here...

Pictures above:
1. A Midsummerstång covered in leaves as Swedes of all ages enthusiastically do their part to welcome summer.
2. More dancing around the maypole.
3. Another common Midsummer tradition is the floral crown worn by women and some younger boys.
4. Kids make all the holidays in Sweden that much better, even if they have no idea what is going on - in fact, the expression of puzzlement on the kids' faces was often reflected in my own.
5. Good friends' nephew all dressed up in traditional Midsummer attire.

By the way, this time of year in Sweden, there is simply no darkness, just different shades of dusk blue. As I look out my northern-facing apartment window, I see the sun go down on the left side around 11:00pm and rise on the right side around 3:00am. In between, just a soft blue horizon awaiting the return of daytime. I haven't seen nighttime pitch black in over a month. No wonder we celebrate this time of year. Sweden is so cool.

Welcome, at long last, beloved Swedish summer.

Americans in Sweden

2007-06-18T06:27:00.000-07:00

As spring becomes summer in Sweden, native or foreigner can sense the conclusion of one year (as measured by the academic calendar and approaching Swedish vacation month) and the anticipation of rest, endless sunshine, water, people and the glories of the warmest and brightest time of year.

An international rite of passage for summer is the various graduation ceremonies and celebrations, which in Sweden take place with captain's hats and farming equipment, at least here in Linköping. Late last week, hundreds of graduating gymnasium or "high school" seniors were paraded through the streets of Linköping (as seen above) declaring their arrival to the next phase of life. The captain's hats one can see in these pictures are a national symbol of high school level graduation, not unlike the motorboard in the U.S. and other countries. These hats can and might be used again at different occasions at University or other times in life (see Valborgs Day on April 30th).

However, this week's subject is dedicated specifically to the ongoing Linköpinglivin theme of an American in Sweden. First, a special Linköpinglivin' acknowledgment goes out to a lifelong friend who has been here the past five days discovering my Swedish world. Jason Berns, who as a matter of fact is 25% Swedish (!), and I grew up together, attended college together, have shared in many life experiences and can now add "Sverige" to our list of accomplishments. You can see above that, even while in Sweden, we experienced a small piece of California during a "beach volley" tournament in Linköping--you should have seen the waves on that beach! So with a visitor this past week, it's been not one, but two, Americans experiencing the adventure that is Sweden.

Second, though I have thoroughly enjoyed the opportunity to share parts of Sweden in this weekly, topic-by-topic format, there is a summary of life in Sweden for an American currently circulating around the internet that is too priceless to pass up. The following is written by someone who apparently lives in Gothenburg and has clearly experienced Sweden as an American. Anyone familiar with this blog will understand just how much I found this to be a poinant and humorous summary of a displaced American in Sweden. Two small comments, 1) I haven't found the customer-service in Sweden to be anything but courteous and respectable and, 2) friends and family back home don't have to worry--I don't think the ground in Linköping is made of "highly absorbent clay."

Enjoy (and we'll see you back here for the famous Swedish Midsummer celebration next week).

Enormous Blonde Herring-scented Nauseatingly

Fair-minded Nymphomaniacs in Clogs

If you're from Topeka, you can go to Kansas City. If you're from
Kansas City, you can go to Chicago. If you're from Chicago, you can go
to New York. But if you're from Manhattan, where can you go?

By the time I was 35 I had to go to Sweden just to calm down.

These are not the people who drill holes in cheese and yodel. They are
not a fondue people. Their trains are often late, their mountains are
unimpressive and their chocolate is adequate at best.

No. These are the people who brought you The Nobel Prize, the Volvo,
the smörgåsbord, free day care, suicide and full frontal nudity. These
are the blondes. Enormous Blonde Herring-scented Nauseatingly
Fair-minded Nymphomaniacs in Clogs.

One day I was using the osthyvel (special cheese slicer) on a hunk of
"grevé" cheese, and Lena, Lina Helena and Lene stared yelling at me.
"We always know when you've been in the cheese! It t looks like a
ski-slope!" Apparently it is of great importance that every slice
attempt to "even out" the cheese level. All Swedes are brought up to
do this. I call this enlightening episode: "Respect the Cheese Form!"

"Lågom" means "not too little, not too much. Just Right." The Middle
Road. Social Democracy. Fairness. Even-ness. Cheese. Although Swedish
is a word-poor language, they have a few we don't. They have a word
for the crime of falsely washing the dishes in a quick and sloppy way.
"Fuskdiska!"

Sweden has an extremely active yogurt culture. Almost frantic. Choose
between "filmjölk", kefir, and yogurt. Yogurt is available in Japanese
style, Russian style, "farmer" style, "normal" style and liquid style,
each in a stupefying array of flavors, including cloudberry. Filmjölk
tastes sourer, but frankly I don't understand the difference. You can
buy no fat, low fat, medium low fat, medium fat, medium-high and "call
your cardiologist" versions of all these things as well as "long"
filmjölk, whatever that is.

Swedish people travel with sheets and towels. They cannot be stopped.
You can try saying; "You don't need to bring your sheets and towels. I
have everything here" but they will bring them all the same.

If you go on a vacation with a Swede, watch out, because when exposed
to direct sunlight, they tend to burst into flame.

Swedes don't like to talk. Except at the movies.

You can buy herring in any gas station.

Swedes squeeze food out of tubes. Among many other choices, liver
paté, mushroom/cheese spread, crab paste, and the infamous "Kalle's
Kaviar" (lumpfish roe) are very popular. My favorite is black
pepper/cognac. There are special gizmos in refrigerators to hold the
tubes. They squirt this stuff onto the knäckebröd (crispbread) which
they store in the special cupboard above the fridge. For an average of
fourteen years. It keeps rather well.

Beer is available in strong, medium and light versions. The most
oft-spoken words are "En stor stark." A big strong one.

Many of my friends, both men and women, use "snus." Chewing tobacco.
Stuffed into their gums, this results in a distinctive, puffy
demeanor.

Whatever their sex life may include, Swedish people sleep in single
beds. Peculiar. But cozy.

Swedes eat a lot of korv (hot dogs) with mos (mashed potatoes) on top.
When they speak English they invariably say, "smashed potatoes" and I
can't correct them; it's too charming. Then there are the ketchup
udders. At every korv kiosk (hot dog stand) there is a shocking lineup
of assorted mustards and ketchups, each in a long, squeezable rubber
udder. There's no other way to describe them. Udders.

Christmas means one thing. Festive Pigs.

Eye drops are illegal. Crazy glue is illegal. Hair dryers never get
really hot. Sweden protects you.

I love Sweden. It's boring, but in a good way.

On every street there are five or six hair "salonger." Most have
frightening English names, like "Klipper Crazy." I am convinced
they're a front for some illegal activity. Because if they're for
real, it's surprising that anyone has a hair left on their head.

Dentists get mad at you because you don't "toothpick", not because you
don't floss.

Toilet paper is packaged in gigantic, 24 roll bales, wrapped in clear
plastic with a handle on top. People run around in public with these,
constantly and shamelessly.

There's something called the Swedish standard, and it's pretty high.
Fairness and Equality means that you can buy a very good Merlot in
Lappland. This is part of the Swedish standard. Liquor is sold only in
state-run stores, called "SystemBolaget", or, as it's more popularly
known, "Systemet." The System. The System closes at 6 PM, and 2 PM on
Saturdays. The most Swedish thing one can do is to go to Systemet on
Friday at 5. You will take a "nummerlapp" (a number from the
Turn-o-Matic) and wait calmly and patiently for your turn to insure a
desperately rowdy weekend. The Turn-o-Matic is an invention of which
the Swedes are very proud. Even at the police station you have to take
a "nummerlapp." And wait. Enterprising drunks outside the shop might
sell you a low number for a few kronor. Otherwise, bring literature.

The most serious television news shows interview political figures
with a charming and homey milieu, including flowered curtains, blond
wood, colorful pillows, pastries and coffee. On doilies. "Nightline,"
take note: Dick Cheney? Why not brownies? And wouldn't Condoleeza Rice
enjoy a freshly baked cinnamon bun?

Even after years of psychotherapy, my most burning issue is a complete
lack of patience. Seemingly, Sweden has been designed especially to
help me learn this virtue. There are not enough people in Sweden. Even
at fancy restaurants, some element is always self -service. It's not
uncommon to clear one's own table. The salad, bread and water are on
the sideboard. Help yourself. No. Help me.

The waitress, the cashier, the mechanic, the cleaning lady and you are
all equals. Not only is the customer not always right, they're just
plain lucky to receive service of any kind.

I want to buy an apartment here, so I had a frank conversation with
immigration. It went something like this:

LR: I'm an American citizen, but I want to buy a house in Sweden. What
are the rules for residency here?

IM: So you're married to a Swede?

LR: No, I'm not married.

IM: Oh, so sorry. So you're living with a Swedish man, then.

LR: No. But I once was married to a Swedish man.

IM: Okay, then!

LR: But we divorced in 1985.

IM: That's too bad.

LR: You're telling me!

IM: So, you have children in Sweden? Swedish children?

LR: No. No children.

IM: No children? Oh, well. Perhaps a Swedish company employs you.

LR: No, not employed.

IM: No job?

LR: I'm freelance.

IM: Silence.

LR: But I have a lot of friends here.

IM: Oh, friends don't count.

LR: silence.

IM: But what reason could you possibly have to want to live here?

LR: You make me feel like I have no reason to want to live at all.

Wait. I have an ex mother-in-law in Helsingborg.

IM: That doesn't mean anything.

LR: But she loves me very much!

IM: Look, we here in Sweden are very liberal. You don't have to be
married. But to live here you have to have a serious relationship.
Like for a couple of months.

LR: A couple of months? Is that all you people care about? Sex? I have
to be having Swedish sex?

IM: Well, yeah!

LR: I'll see what I can do.

The city of Gothenburg was built on highly absorbent clay. Legend has
it that this clay makes one sink in and stay. There might be something
to that because I am still here.

Nationalsdag

2007-06-09T22:23:00.001-07:00

All year I have been touting the great holidays of Sweden:

“Steeped in tradition.”

“A festive occasion of food, drink and song—something Swedes have been doing long before America was born.”

“Another celebration of the season marked by the annual [fill in blank] that’s been happening since before anyone can remember.”

So you would be right to suspect that a holiday like “National Day” would be another of these grand occasions where I would find myself singing around a bonfire while eating fish and watching the woman next to me with candles peculiarly perched on her head. But you would be mistaken. On Sweden’s “Nationalsdag,” nothing happens, except a day off from work.

The quick and dirty history of National Day is that it has only been an official holiday since 2005, only been a day of recognition 1983 and somehow is connected with Gustav Vasa, Sweden’s most beloved king and the official split with Denmark and subsequent constitution way back when.

So, until there is time for an entire culture to establish some traditions, Swedes (and their lucky guests) will just enjoy a day off from work and do whatever they feel like on Sweden's National Day.

As for me, an excursion to the classic Swedish summer town of Söderköping through the rolling and green Swedish countryside, which on this day was decorated with even more Swedish flags than normal, was how I celebrated my first Nationalsdag. Three friends, some renowned Söderköping ice cream, a small walk up a hillside for a great view and then back to Linköping for Swedish class—a well used day off from work to celebrate the nation of Sweden.

Pictures above:

1. Linköping's city hall with flags-a-flyin' on National Day.

2. Söderköping from a hillside outlook.

3. A typical Sweden spring & summer's day: water & boats, strolling Swedes casually enjoying the often-elusive sunshine and a line at the ice cream shop...Söderköping at its best.

Swedish "Kolonier"

2007-06-04T12:49:00.000-07:00

Long before Sweden became one of the world's most successful welfare states, policy makers and government officials decided to provide urban, industrial, city dwellers with a solace to their concrete woes and lack of natural exposure, something all Swedes agree that no Swede should go without.

Swedish "Kolonier" or Swedish Colonies are areas of land outside of many main city centers throughout Sweden. The building full of students where I work is located just steps away from the Linköping "Koloni," hence one reason for the student-named "Colonia" student housing project where I am spend my days and some nights.

Above, you will find pictures of the Linköping Colony, both from a distance and while taking a closer look. Americans might think of this as an elaborate "community garden," an area of land reserved for low-income people in cities to have a gardening spot, but the Swedish Colony is no longer necessarily for city dwellers or just so good Swedish folk can have a nature-centered habitat. Current residents of colony-living have either inherited or purchased their limited area and use it as a spring and summer cottage. Essentially a studio living area with a small lawn, classic red paint job and fencing and a small garden for anything from flowers to vegetables to herbs.

Just one more unique, charming and "moderate" element to Sweden and the Swedes.

We have another Swedish holiday this week, the National Day is on Wednesday, then another holiday later this month, the beloved "Midsommar." It's the time of year when, well, vacation is just around the corner so we take holidays just to get a little more comfortable with the idea of not working....or so I've been told.

See you next week.

Linköpinglivin'

www.tuk-tuktalker.blogspot.com - Come Join the Fun!

A Thailand Time Out

Thailand Part 2: Chiang Mai

Thailand Part 1: Bangkok

A New Adventure: Thailand

Linköpinglivin' Welcomes Budget Travel Readers

Swedish Fun Facts: One Last Time...

Why It's So Cool To Live In Linköping - Part 5: Norin's Ost

Woulda, Coulda, Shoulda in Sweden

The Stockholm Archipelago and the Swedish Love of Water

Tallinn, Estonia....via the Baltic Sea

Gender Equality in Sweden

Why It Is So Cool To Live In Linköping - Part 4: Åbacka Cafe

Die, Wasp, Die!

In the Swedish Board Room and Working World

Göteborg (and the introduction of video on Linköpinglivin')

Summer Olympics According to the Swedes

The Abbreviated Summer (even in Sweden)

"Super-Size Me" - Swedish Style

Euro 2008

Top 10 Things I Love To Say To Europeans

Everything You Need to Know About Golf (& Mini-Golf) in Sweden

3 Meals, 3 Countries, 1 Day

Glorified Failure: The Vasa Museum

European Shorts

When "Paris in the Spring" is Closed and Wet

En Hemlig Samtal På Svenska

Top 10 Reasons Why Linköping is Better Than Stockholm

A Birthday, and a Brother, in Sweden

If You Want to Write a Blog...

An Introduction to Baseball

London Calling and the American Traveler

If You Want To Learn A New Language...

De Röda Små Stugor

King Vasa's Race and Blueberry Soup

Melodifestivalen Kommer Till Linköping

Why It's So Cool To Live in Linköping: Part 3 - Kanevad Woodcarving

A Presidential Nomination - Only in America

"Football" vs. Football

Top 10 Pieces of Unsolicited Advice for Foreigners in a Strange Land

Homogeneity, Diversity and Race in Sweden: Part II

The Return of Swedish Fun Facts

Munich and a Viennese New Year

Christmas in Salzburg

Christmastime in England

Why It's So Cool To Live in Linköping: Part 2 - Mjellerums Gården

Jul i Stockholm

AmateurTraveler.com Visits Sweden (via Linköping)

Thanksgiving in St. Petersburg

Skål

Cristina

Halloween, Alla Helgons Dag, Holidays and Culture

The Top 10 Things Sweden and Southern California Have in Common

A Special Welcome to The Outlook Readers (and a trip home in pictures)

Why It's So Cool to Live in Linköping - Part 1: Domkyrka

Neutrality

Dating, Relationships and Marriage in Sweden

Language of Love & Love of Language

More Swedish Fun Facts (and another Crayfish party)

Diversity, Homogeneity and Race in Sweden: Part 1

Skansen - All of Sweden, Then & Now, Just Around the Corner

A Swedish "Sommar" (and a few summer visitors)

"Tillbaka till Sverige" - A Second Year in Sweden

Once Upon a Time, there was...Sweden.

Midsommar

Americans in Sweden

Nationalsdag

Swedish "Kolonier"